dalius Posted December 14, 2005 Posted December 14, 2005 I miss climbing.... Somebody enter that shit in the photo contest! nice shot. Quote
David Trippett Posted December 14, 2005 Posted December 14, 2005 BTW... I am typing this on my nice laptop marked "University of Washington Forestry" Thanks! Thanks! I am sad...sad that assholes like you continue infesting Squamish and ruining a perfectly nice crag. Quote
Off_White Posted December 15, 2005 Posted December 15, 2005 Boy wonder comes to rescue of his reach-around buddy? Well....anyone who uses the Bourdon book MUST know their shit. Do you enjoy buying select guides and spraying your sorry shit on the web? I guess walking up the stairs is "bouldery" if you lead 5.2. I'll tell you what, why don't you and your lil' buddy c'mon up to squamish and we can play a game of follow the leader? Leave your rope at home. Can you back up that shit you talk? No? Then stay home and wash out your pussy. Afternoon drinking is so charming. I'd appreciate it if you two would take your tussle to spray. Quote
David Trippett Posted December 15, 2005 Posted December 15, 2005 Boy wonder comes to rescue of his reach-around buddy? Well....anyone who uses the Bourdon book MUST know their shit. Do you enjoy buying select guides and spraying your sorry shit on the web? I guess walking up the stairs is "bouldery" if you lead 5.2. I'll tell you what, why don't you and your lil' buddy c'mon up to squamish and we can play a game of follow the leader? Leave your rope at home. Can you back up that shit you talk? No? Then stay home and wash out your pussy. Afternoon drinking is so charming. I'd appreciate it if you two would take your tussle to spray. It's not worthy of spray. Quote
EWolfe Posted December 15, 2005 Posted December 15, 2005 Back on track: I like how Luke managed to REPRESENT the bouldering crew with the pad! Must be a Bouldery Start! Quote
Dru Posted December 15, 2005 Posted December 15, 2005 or maybe he doesn't have a backpack and he had to carry his harness and shoes to the crag in his pad! Quote
Cobra_Commander Posted December 15, 2005 Posted December 15, 2005 maybe it's at rocky butte and that's a discarded mattress someone peed on Quote
David Trippett Posted December 15, 2005 Posted December 15, 2005 Back on track: Must be a Bouldery Start! Quote
Distel32 Posted December 15, 2005 Posted December 15, 2005 there isn't an easy move on that route....except maybe the mantle....??? I think this pic is better though, also by Kris Taylor: not so bouldery route Quote
Dru Posted December 15, 2005 Posted December 15, 2005 how can that pic be better when its not even in focus? Quote
Off_White Posted December 15, 2005 Posted December 15, 2005 You must need to be wearing Luke's magic glasses Seriously though, what is with the pad, I thought all those Newhalem routes were "safe." Quote
Distel32 Posted December 15, 2005 Posted December 15, 2005 that first pic is from baker crags. that dyno is low, and if you miss the move before it or the dyno if some slack out you will land on those rocks. Plus kris's gf was belaying me, she weighs like 120lbs, hence the crashpad. It is joe's pad anyway, so shut the F up. that second pic is sized down and converted, the tif image looks nice.... Quote
sexual_chocolate Posted December 15, 2005 Posted December 15, 2005 oh look, it's a picture of distel climbing. Quote
Off_White Posted December 15, 2005 Posted December 15, 2005 Well, I know you miss climbing, I just didn't want you to miss being flipped shit about climbing. Quote
Ed_Seedhouse Posted December 15, 2005 Posted December 15, 2005 (edited) So let me get this straight - if it's a 5.7 crack but narrows to be 5.9 somewhere in the middle for a few moves, it gets a 5.9 rating. If you take the same narrow section and move it to the top it's still 5.9. But if you then take that very same narrow bit and move it to the bottom suddenly it's 5.7? I thought the idea was to rate the hardest move on the climb. Edited December 15, 2005 by Ed_Seedhouse Quote
EWolfe Posted December 15, 2005 Posted December 15, 2005 Sorry, we've all converted to Avitripp's rating system: If it's got a hard start and you rate it by that, you're a whining crybaby. Otherwise the grades remain the same. Hope that helps! Quote
catbirdseat Posted December 15, 2005 Author Posted December 15, 2005 Pearly Gates? Do you mean to say all the routes at Pearly Gates? Many of them do have hard starts. Quote
AJScott Posted December 15, 2005 Posted December 15, 2005 I would assume hes talking about the route pearly gates at pearly gates: bulgy bouldery start that requires pretty good balance. obviously uncharacteristic to the rest of the climb as pearly gates is known for its cracks...I was actually going to chime in with this one because its the first one that came to mind when i saw this thread. not the best route at PG, but a fun one. Quote
AJScott Posted December 15, 2005 Posted December 15, 2005 wait a minute, i just looked at my guide, that's not the route i was thinking of, that is a fun one though! I wouldnt say its a bouldery start, just layback crack to the roof and then you got a bolt. No, the one I was thinking of up there is Easy Pickings: "A bouldery sequence past a bolt gains a thin crack....." I guess i should have done some research before running my mouth on a internet message board....o wait. Quote
Dru Posted December 15, 2005 Posted December 15, 2005 So let me get this straight - if it's a 5.7 crack but narrows to be 5.9 somewhere in the middle for a few moves, it gets a 5.9 rating. If you take the same narrow section and move it to the top it's still 5.9. But if you then take that very same narrow bit and move it to the bottom suddenly it's 5.7? I thought the idea was to rate the hardest move on the climb. a common misconception. climbs are rated in the YDS by overall difficulty, not by the hardest move. in the case of boulder starts, it is much easier to climb a boulder problem off the deck, with as many tries as you want and no fall consequence, than it is at the top of a climb (particularly if you don't haul your rack up until you are past the bouldery opening moves) so the difficulty of boulder starts is not reflected in the overall number grade for the route. Quote
slaphappy Posted December 15, 2005 Posted December 15, 2005 The only route at the Pearly Gates that is truly "bouldery" at the start is Leap of Faith and the rating (10d) is for the opening moves. Celestial Groove has a difficult start but last I remember 5.9 is hard and I feel the grade reflects an accurate rating of the difficulties. If CBS feels it's "way harder" he needs to learn how to hand jam... Easy Pickens is contrived IMO. - Quote
catbirdseat Posted December 15, 2005 Author Posted December 15, 2005 The only route at the Pearly Gates that is truly "bouldery" at the start is Leap of Faith and the rating (10d) is for the opening moves. Celestial Groove has a difficult start but last I remember 5.9 is hard and I feel the grade reflects an accurate rating of the difficulties. If CBS feels it's "way harder" he needs to learn how to hand jam... Easy Pickens is contrived IMO. - CG starts with a layback. The jams suck and it is almost horizontal. Quote
David Trippett Posted December 15, 2005 Posted December 15, 2005 (edited) Sorry, we've all converted to Avitripp's rating system: If it's got a hard start and you rate it by that, you're a whining crybaby. Otherwise the grades remain the same. Hope that helps! Just to clarify my position.... I never said anything regarding whether "bouldery starts" exist or not. I simply disagreed with Layton on whether Crime of the Century and Phlemish Dance have "bouldery starts" (they don't) which he chose to respond to with a threat to "smack me"...thus ensued the lively, and entertaining exchange. If people in other countries choose to "defend" themselves they're terrorists huh?...they must put something in the water. So whats the (boulder)problem? Should't you be in J-Tree MisterE? Lots of boulder starts there... Edited December 15, 2005 by avitripp Quote
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