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Posted

Climb: Leavenworth Ice-Hubba Hubba Central Flow

 

Date of Climb: 12/11/2005

 

Trip Report:

Climbed Hubba Hubba yesterday in clear, cold conditions.

 

Ice is surprisingly fat for this time of year, but also quite different (and overall, thinner) than last time I was up there last year. Because it's early season, there is very little evidence of previous ascents, so it's not "stepped out" or "picked out" like I've seen it in the past. This makes for more strenuous climbing and it feels like honest WI3+ for the first pitch.

 

We climbed to the big pillar/rock outcrop on the right side, about 40 feet shy of the top-out into the snow, and rapped off from there, as the nature of the ice towards the top seemed to change and was generally thinner.

 

There is a two-piece equalized anchor there with rap rings, FYI. Two 60 meter ropes needed for the rappel.

 

It's probably better to just top out and walk off, but we didn't like the looks of the last section...It seemed to pose no problem for the fellow who soloed up behind us, and cruised past as we were rigging the rappel, however....humbling! rockband.gif

 

Sorry, no pictures this time. EDIT: PICTURE FROM OTHER THREAD: 12-10-2005%20001web.jpg

 

Gear Notes:

An assortment of screws from 22-cm to very short, plus stoppers (didn't use them)

 

3 Screamers

 

Approach Notes:

Very unconsolidated snow on the way up -- found the nice bootpack on the descent, however.

 

Lots of evidence of tracks on the way up, including elk, marten, dogs, people, and lots of little critters

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Posted

Icicle Creek Road is fine -- a few patches of snow or ice here or there (a lot like the climbing in the area!). Then, you can park on the road and simply walk up to the climb, took us about 45 min or perhaps an hour due to the wallowing nature of the unconsolidated snow over talus/bushes...

 

I was surprised to see that the Bridge Creek road itself is actually un-gated, and saw a few vehicles going up and down it -- though I am not sure how FAR up you can get . . . lots of snowmobile tracks around, too . . .

 

Nelson's guidebook calls Hubba Hubba a WI 3/4 depending on conditions, and I wonder what the parties who climbed it this weekend would call it in its current state?

Posted

well i only climbed it once. and it wasn't very think. I would have a hard time believing its ever anything more than 3 or 3- since terrian there is so low angle

Posted
I was surprised to see that the Bridge Creek road itself is actually un-gated, and saw a few vehicles going up and down it -- though I am not sure how FAR up you can get . . .

 

I made it to just past the gated parking spot for hubba in my suby before i got stuck. When i skied up the road on Sunday, tracks went to just past the bivy site.

 

I'd call it WI3 in the current state.

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