ice in the gorge

[retired]

If I still had my ice gear and wasn't so at peace with myself i'd be gettin on some of that ice in the gorge. It's frozen up and getting thicker every day. of course the 60 mph e. wind gusts may blast you right off your points but I'm surprised there hasn't been more posted about it.

[Chad_A]

On our way to Hood yesterday, we took a ride through the Gorge. I had my binoculars with me; from what I could see only one thing was climbable, but maybe from the WA side you can see more?

 

Yeah, the winds were WHIPPING too. It'd be pretty damn chilly getting blasted by wind and sprayed with water at the same time. But, that's ice climbin'...

[AFIVE]

Climed ice in the gorge Friday and this morning before work!! Crown Jewel is climbable, but you need lots of 10's and 13's. The slab above that pond is super thick! Nice mushrooms to climb on and you can get long screws in it as well. The ice is wet from all the wind blowing the waterfall over onto it....but that's why the ice is in!!! I got covered by a one inch layer of ice while leading the pitch. The ice also takes v-threads no problem! You can find lines varrying from WI2 to WI3+. Have fun on it. I think it will be there for a while.

[luvshaker]

Where did you park for Crown Jewel? The Descent?

Thanks

[AFIVE]

The gate for the dirt road accessing the railroad tracks is WIDE OPEN! Just drive on down by the tracks, we did. This is located pretty much directly accross from Rooster Rock itself. I loaned all my 10's and 13's out this morning. Marcus and John I hope that helps you send it!!

[Cobra_Commander]

do they have a laptop with them at crown point? how are they going to get your message

[sweatinoutliquor]

I would love to see a picture of ice in the gorge, if anyone has one... I'm sorta new to OR but missin out on the New Hampshire ice scene... Curious to see what it looks like if anyone has a shot! Just something to get my stoke up!

[ryland_moore]

I tried to post some on Friday as it was thin, but in. I am going out tomorrow and Wednesday, so I will try and get some more pics. Will climb hopefully Wednesday morning, so will have pics from that as well.

 

This cold spell will be around, so this weekend, it should be really nice and not nearly as wet.

[ryland_moore]

Hey AFIVE, did you do the second pitch of Crown Jewel and did you have any trouble finding the anchors on the left side for the top of the first pitch??? Also, do you just rap off trees at the top of the second pitch, set up a V-thread, or what?

Edited December 13, 2005 by ryland_moore

[John Frieh]

AFIVE was at Mist Falls not Crown.

 

One bolt is available at the first anchor... other two are currently covered in ice. Save 2 13 cm screws for the anchor + one of your tools (or both) + the bolt and you should be cool. Anchor is almost exactly at 30 m off the deck in an obvious roll below a steeper step.

 

Sketchy shrubs on top to rap off of. Bring lots of tat or walk the trail. The bush held my fat ass (175) today. You need 60 m ropes to reach the bolt anchor off the top.

 

You need a ton of 10s and 13s cms to get up this in current conditions.

 

Ainsworth is in! Likely the better choice over Crown Jewel right now

[cluck]

Gorge Ice Update for 12/17:

 

Ice is thin most places but there is some to be had.

 

Shepard's Dell?

 

 

 

Mist Falls:

 

 

Mist falls is nice and thick. Unfortunately the wife and I got nailed by a pretty big icefall while setting up and sustained some minor injuries. Thanks are in order to some good samaritans for helping us get back down to the car. After a quick trip to the ER for a few stitches, we are both nursing our wounds over a few beers.

 

 

[edit] Better conditions updates on the

Ice Climbing Forum

Edited December 18, 2005 by cluck

[Kevin_Matlock]

Thanks are in order to some good samaritans for helping us get back down to the car.

Snaileye, eddieb, and myself were the 3 doods, not sure who the guy was with the boy. Glad you hauled out of there in once piece. Hell of a first-timer's experience for the wife though.

Some friendly advice though, next time leave the dog at home or bring a lease as he/she didn't make things any easier.

[cluck]

Thanks for your help, Kevin!

 

You're right - the pooch was an unwelcome hassle and I'm well aware of the "dogs & ice climbing" debate. My intention was to tie her to the tree by our packs but somehow that slipped my mind in the excitement of finally finding some good ice.

 

Fortunately we escaped with only a few cuts & bruises, wounded pride, and lessons learned.

[Kevin_Matlock]

Glad to hear that!

 

I gotta ask though, what was the deal there at the falls? I guess it was warmer than it felt? I was surprised to see that ice let go. And the fact that nobody else was up there implies that any others bailed? Just wondering if you had any beta on the conditions (from others perhaps)since we were looking at that for next time... until we saw your guys accident.

 

We spent some time up at the first foot bridge on Wahclella (Tanner?) creek. The conditions were pretty nice and we hit a secondary falls back in the woods above our first route. The conditions then totally fell apart on us within 30 or so mins. Really strange.... but alas, the wonders of gorge ice I guess.

 

Anyway, glad you guys are ok.

[cluck]

A friend of mine reported on Friday that Mist Falls was in (WI 2/3). And the ice looked really nice to me. I chose to set up on the left side of the curtain to avoid most of the spray & wind and to be out of the line of fire of any icefall. Turns out I didn't go far enough left.

 

In retrospect - the right side of the ampetheater would be much safer from icefall, but you'd get pretty soaked from the waterfall. Of course, that depends entirely on what the wind is doing.