Centeral Washington Ice

[gyselinck]

Maybe I got my geographic locations messed up, but I think these are Central Washington. Went to Strobach Mountain on Thrusday, Sad Ce'bu and Sudden Change were in. We climbed Sad Ce'bu and didn't have time for the other one. Conditions are a little thin. Today (Friday) we went to Vantage and climbed Fugs Falls, its still out of condtion, but we were able to get up it. On a side note, Frenchman Falls looks like it actually might come in this year. There is no ice on running gear death wall. Also, Uptaneum drip is in and has been for some time.

 

Edit: Some pictures from Strobach below.

 

 

Sudden Change:

 

Sad Se'bu

 

Edited December 10, 2005 by gyselinck

[kurthicks]

how was the Strobach approach?

 

Why don't you come up to L-worth and hit Mountaineer creek with me tomorrow?

[gyselinck]

Were going to L-worth tomorrow! Hey, pm me your phone number, I'll call you.

[Alex]

Thanks for the pics, they look about the same as it ever was for this time of year.

 

Sad Ce'bu looks in typical Dec conditions...totally leadable but thin. I think thats pretty standard for that route. Lucky its not higher angle, or it probably wouldnt form as reliably. The weather is supposed to stay cold with no new storm systems though this week, so it should form up even better.

 

Sudden Change looks like in the same shape as it was in when we got the second ascent of it - the first 10 m were totally cerebral with dirt and moss sticks but the ice thickens up to stubby depth pretty fast and the top half is easy to protect, with only one annoying shrub.

 

The partially formed route that goes straight up on Sad Ce'bu from just before the belay cave looks like it might be a good mixed route, but I remember scoping the rock out and not being too confident in it. Still, might be a good thing to TR this year to see if it goes. One could easily set up a tree TR from above with a double rope...

[Jens]

Anybody go to Banks today or yesterday? If Vantage has ice, Banks must be huge?

-----

Thinking of going tomorrow.

[Weekend_Climberz]

Yeah, I've read that there's plenty to have over there right now. Gonna make a trip soon, maybe next weekend, wanna go for a ride??

[Tydog]

How's the approach for Strobach? From the pic's it looks like you can hike in. Did you need any snowshoes or ski's?

[kurthicks]

Anybody go to Banks today or yesterday? If Vantage has ice, Banks must be huge?

 

that's what I tought too, but http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/threadz/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/526314/Main/521909#Post526314

[cynicalwoodsman]

I'm in Bend, Or and new to Oregon ice. Is there any craggin' nearby?

[gyselinck]

Saturday did Hubba Hubba (which is fat) and Hubba Hubba right (which is thin and scarry). Thanks wazzumountaineer for the heads up on these climbs. Met a few cc.comers there as well. Today (sunday) went back to Umptaneum, the main falls is actually coming in. Lots of little crags are formed up nicly to around there. Keep posting updates here guys. I think the more people post, the more we will all get to climb without wasting time. For example, the only reason we new Sad Se'bu was in was because of Layton's post. I suspect as the weekend draws to an end, more updates will be made. No point to be all secretive and shit.

 

As for Strobach approach, it took like an hour and a half I think. My partners had snow shoes, I didn't and was cursing the whole way. There should be a nice beat down trail though.

 

Anybody head out to Vantage this weekend? I was curious of Frenchman is still getting fat. Three days ago it was really forming up good.

[kurthicks]

Dammit Bob! in Moses Coulee. You can walk/scramble from climber's left on a ledge to reach the start. looks like solid WI5 with decent pro. better than the photo leads you to believe. the other routes that I saw were not close to touching down.

 

other pics in other threads.

[Tydog]

Any updates on Frenchman Coulee???

[kurthicks]

I'll check it out tomorrow night on my way back to Leavenworth. no pictures will come out of it though since it will be night time.

[TrogdortheBurninator]

How are you spending so much time in LW?

[kurthicks]

Girlfriend just moved there.

That, and finals are over. I don't have school on Fridays either.

 

edit: going to be in Leavenworth or Banks on Thurs/Friday. stop by and say hey if you see a blue subaru w/oregon plates.

Edited December 14, 2005 by wazzumountaineer

[AFIVE]

Is this photo up the side canyon at Banks where the Emerald is located? I noticed a flow starting on the right side of the canyon two weeks ago. This sort of looks like it. Just curious if that is it or if this is something else in the near vacinity. Thanks in advance.

[kurthicks]

This climb is located in Moses Coulee, about ~20 minutes west of Banks on Hwy 2. It's strikingly obvious driving west (and stopped me cold while driving east, too). 5 minute approach from the looks of it. Faces NE I think.

[kurthicks]

Any updates on Frenchman Coulee???

 

did Frenchman falls yesterday. doing Fuggs today. looking OK.

[Tydog]

Thanks for the update. Hopefully it stays and gets better. I am looking to getting out there over Christmas break.

[gyselinck]

How did Fugs go? We did it a week ago and it was pretty much way out of condition. It looked a bit fatter today through binoculars.

[kurthicks]

it's in pretty fat (at least from what the guide says it is usually). we didn't have to place any rock gear. a litle thin at the very top. see pics here:

 

http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/threadz/showthreaded.php/Cat/0/Number/528573/page/0/vc/1

[Alex]

I climbed Fugs last year first week of January and it was in similar shape. Its a great climb!

[catbirdseat]

Korup and I went to Banks Lake today. We climbed Trotsky's Folly. The bottom 10 meters is WI 2+. The top 15 meters is WI4. It seemed a lot like a pillar with fluting. It was hard for me, not having ever tried something like that, but it was fun.

 

There are huge deathcicles hanging over Devil's Punchbowl, or whatever that nearby WI2 area is called. Trotsky's revenge was in but looked too spicy for the likes of us. I had a few icicles hanging over it but not nearly as bad as DP.

 

Stopped at 59'er Diner on the way home and ran across Eric and Ray who had been climbing ice up near Lake Wenatchee.

[ApeMan]

Glad to see that someone has made the trip into Strobach already! I was up to Rim Rock for some cross country with my girlfriend yesterday and it looked like many of the climbs were in, still thin as the pictures attest but there.

 

Also, It looks like "First Ice on the Right is in". Possibly for the first time since Yale and I put that up as the first ice route we found up there. I'm hoping to get up there this year and get good and freaked out but we'll see how the winter progresses for me.

 

Lastly, as we were skiing around the penisula area on Rim Rock I noticed that right below the bridge, where the S. Fork of the Tieton enters the lake, is a curtain of ice , at least 20' high and maybe 40 wide. I stopped and looked at it from above and there is some running water under the ice but if anyone has the sack and maybe a toprope it certainly seems doable. I'm thinking once the weather warms again it'll all melt out but there is some road side ice for any who want it!

 

Larry

[Tydog]

Went to Umptanum Falls on Christmas Eve. Although the main falls were out there was a line opposite the main falls that was in. I would say the left side was a WI3 and the right was a WI4/m4 mixed line. The line was only 30 ft or so but very fun. Well worth the hike. Pic's to follow.