verticalwanderer Posted December 8, 2005 Share Posted December 8, 2005 Anybody have any beta on the route breifly mentioned in the Beckey guide? When is it usually in? How hard is it? Any other suggestions for good moderate winter adventures? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TrogdortheBurninator Posted December 8, 2005 Share Posted December 8, 2005 The route is probably the NE Slab. It is covered thoroughly in Nelson's 2nd volume. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Weekend_Climberz Posted December 8, 2005 Share Posted December 8, 2005 There's many routes that would probably be in any time of the year. I have not climbed much harder than 5.6 stuff on that thing and having crampons and ice tools would make it even more fun. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fenderfour Posted December 8, 2005 Share Posted December 8, 2005 AlpineDave's North Slab TR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrewbanandrew Posted December 9, 2005 Share Posted December 9, 2005 (edited) Are any of the slopes adjacent or above the approach route (take trail to source lake, turn left up gully) prone to sliding? Edited December 9, 2005 by andrewbanandrew Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Weekend_Climberz Posted December 9, 2005 Share Posted December 9, 2005 Are any of the slopes adjacent or above the approach route (take trail to source lake, turn left up gully) prone to sliding? Â Yes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kenp Posted December 9, 2005 Share Posted December 9, 2005 hell yes! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomtom Posted December 10, 2005 Share Posted December 10, 2005 Affirmative. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
magellan Posted December 10, 2005 Share Posted December 10, 2005 Absolutely slidable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fenderfour Posted December 11, 2005 Share Posted December 11, 2005 Careful there ar eslopes that could avalanche up there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ade Posted December 15, 2005 Share Posted December 15, 2005 Well there's several things you could be talking about here... Which one do you mean? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
verticalwanderer Posted January 6, 2006 Author Share Posted January 6, 2006 NE Slab is the route I had in mind. THanks for the info....Esp the Alpine Dave trip report. Anyone been up in the area recently? I think I may head up tommorrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ade Posted January 6, 2006 Share Posted January 6, 2006 Make sure you look at the avie forecast first. Last I looked the bowl below the Tooth may not be such a smart place to be playing this weekend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
verticalwanderer Posted January 6, 2006 Author Share Posted January 6, 2006 To be sure......Avy forcast is calling for moderate and if I recall the approach to the NE face, it is possible to cross the bowl on the "flat" bolderfield below and then skirt the bowl just below the rock?? Any other info on actual route conditions/gear would be greatly appriciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Frieh Posted January 6, 2006 Share Posted January 6, 2006 Nelson 2nd Edition. Â Route tends to be a later winter route as enough snow/ice needs to be present to climb the first pitch. Haven't been up there but recent temps would lead me to conclude the first pitch is missing and/or partially in. Â Avy: just because you are on flat terrain doesn't mean you are safe. Assess the conditions as you approach the climb... not on a website. Â Be safe. Have fun. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fenderfour Posted January 6, 2006 Share Posted January 6, 2006 I would expect the first pitch to be completely "out" you could still do the normal (south face?) route. Â I would be very concerned about the bowl below the Tooth. There are also a couple of nasty slopes along the summer trail. If you are going to investigate, stick to the cat-track from the upper lot at Alpental. Keep looking to the left for a snowshoe path before the end of the cat track. If you miss it, it is well worth going back to find. Â FYI - the cat track trail still traverses one decent sized-avalanche slope. Â I'm pretty sure you will have to get in the bowl just below The Tooth. The only other option is to go to the top of the upper Alpental lift and traverse along the backside of Denny. I think Beckey has some info on this approach. I've never been back there, so I don't know what the terrain looks like. It will also put you on the wrong side of the hill, leaving you to pop back over Pineapple pass and traverse in front of the tooth in the bowl. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
verticalwanderer Posted January 6, 2006 Author Share Posted January 6, 2006 Thanks again for all the info.....I was up on the normal route a few weeks before christmas and the was VERY little snow on the NE face, so it was hard to tell exactly where the route was. I may just go up for a scouting mission and throw my gear in the pack for extra exercise just in case. I will let you all know how it looks. Â I am new to the Seattle area and am in search of some good winter routes. The only reason I was thinking about the Tooth is that I had been up there before and know the area a bit. Anyone have any other favorite winter routes I might check out? I am looking for easy to moderate routes (ie WI 3/5.8ish) That I could do in a long day. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted January 6, 2006 Share Posted January 6, 2006 I am new to the Seattle area and am in search of some good winter routes. Â Although it is now "calendar winter" you would do much better to wait for good "winter conditions", ie cold, frozen, low avvy hazard - instead of warm rain and isothermal avalanche prone snow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
verticalwanderer Posted January 6, 2006 Author Share Posted January 6, 2006 Although it is now "calendar winter" you would do much better to wait for good "winter conditions", ie cold, frozen, low avvy hazard - instead of warm rain and isothermal avalanche prone snow. Â That is really my dilemma.....For a while there everything seems to be frozen and there was much good climbing to be had everywhere I looked.....now, with the soupy conditions I am trying to not end up pissing away my ever so valuble weekend with my thumb in my ass at some stupid coffee shop. PLEASE HELP!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Frieh Posted January 6, 2006 Share Posted January 6, 2006 East side of Northern Cascades looks good... avy will depend on where you go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted January 6, 2006 Share Posted January 6, 2006 You can hike up Mt Si wearing plastic boots for 'training'. Look out for cougars! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
verticalwanderer Posted January 6, 2006 Author Share Posted January 6, 2006 East side of Northern Cascades looks good... avy will depend on where you go. Â Any good routes you would suggest over there? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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