Peter_Puget Posted October 26, 2005 Posted October 26, 2005 Any beta? Do I need anything smaller than a #3. Heard this route is now fairly popular after the myths about the first few ascents have proven to be baseless. Quote
Dru Posted October 26, 2005 Posted October 26, 2005 I thought there were 4 or 5 of them. There's definitely one in Colorado. Quote
MCash Posted October 26, 2005 Posted October 26, 2005 http://www.climbingjtree.com/rock/db/lost_horse/imaginary_voyage_formation/imaginary_voyage.html ? Quote
layton Posted October 27, 2005 Posted October 27, 2005 The crux is the layback 1/2way up the overhanging offwidth isn't so bad actually. I used a 4.5 to protect the moves and did a double foot stack, let go, and swung upsidedown to grab the jug, kicked my legs out and mantled on up. That sounds scary on lead, but it aint cuz you have a honking 4.5 cam above your head the whole time. Me on the 10d layback crux Me entering the wideness Good luck and have fun. It's hands down the most fun I've EVER had on a single pitch rock lead. Quote
specialed Posted November 5, 2005 Posted November 5, 2005 That was my favorite route at J-Tree. Quote
tyree Posted November 7, 2005 Posted November 7, 2005 (edited) I climed it this spting, it is sooo sick. Mike is right the layback is the crux, all you need to protect the travese is a 4 and mabey a 3.5. The stem to the roof is SICk!!! I didnt do the fot stack as explained by Mike, I just stemmed like I was doing the splits then pull up on an arm bar to some jugs. You dont need the 4.5 if you trust the shady bolt but beware of rope drag moving your piece! I just clipped the bolt, Its a hell of a pendulum if the second falls Edited November 10, 2005 by tyree Quote
tyree Posted November 10, 2005 Posted November 10, 2005 (edited) Here I am on the roof. Sooo much fun!!! Edited November 10, 2005 by Off_White Quote
tyree Posted November 10, 2005 Posted November 10, 2005 yeah if I was a little less flexible or shorter it would have been impossible. Quote
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