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Posted

The crux is the layback 1/2way up

the overhanging offwidth isn't so bad actually. I used a 4.5 to protect the moves and did a double foot stack, let go, and swung upsidedown to grab the jug, kicked my legs out and mantled on up. That sounds scary on lead, but it aint cuz you have a honking 4.5 cam above your head the whole time.

 

Me on the 10d layback crux

136jtree-ImV5.jpg

 

 

Me entering the wideness

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Good luck and have fun. It's hands down the most fun I've EVER had on a single pitch rock lead. thumbs_up.gif

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

I climed it this spting, it is sooo sick. Mike is right the layback is the crux, all you need to protect the travese is a 4 and mabey a 3.5. The stem to the roof is SICk!!! I didnt do the fot stack as explained by Mike, I just stemmed like I was doing the splits then pull up on an arm bar to some jugs. You dont need the 4.5 if you trust the shady bolt but beware of rope drag moving your piece! I just clipped the bolt, Its a hell of a pendulum if the second falls wink.gif

Edited by tyree

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