layton Posted July 23, 2002 Posted July 23, 2002 I did a quick toenail test up at WA pass on NEWS West face last thursday w/Necronomicon to see if I could handle 23+ pitches, and as I hobbled back to the car I figured that I better keep quite to my upcoming Bear partner, Climzalot. Well the day finally came and I put my Boulders on. A serious slog ensued, and one wrong turn, and Climzalot and I became unspeakably lost in the WORST nightmare of marsh and bush. Several time I stepped in a hole, and sunk down to my waist in warm, methane and mosquito infested murk! We lost like 2 hours till we finally found the trail. I will do my very best to purge this from my memory. "The Horror," and Marlon Brando once said. Damn straight! The next section is 4500' uphill. Yeah, fun! Under the burning disk of the cruel sun we drug our sorry asses to Ruta lake. You actually wind up 300' above the lake (the worst mosquitos in the world) so I'd suggest to all the fucked up souls out there planning on going up there, to fill up at bear camp and avoid going down to the hellish lake, or there are 2 braided streams along the rising traverse to the col. 8 hours later we arrived at the col. It could've taken up 5-6 hours if we didn't get marshed out, and also, we gained the ridge line on Bear way to early. Traverse cross country above the lake, then go up. The col was a windless mosquito bar, but the views are so amazing that it was worth every step, and every bite. You can see everything. We went to bed plenty tired, and my toenails were doing just fine! Day 2 Crampons and an ice ax are absolutely essential to get to the climb. The slopes are fairly steep, and one could manage to do it without them, but to get to the climb... Well my duct-tape crampon harness system failed while I was trying to pull a serac lip. Staring down into a bottemless moat (wicked scary) we went higher onto a slab. Our plan on stashing one pair of crampons and ax here and getting it later went out the window. Our pack was amazingly heavy. 2 pairs shoes, 2 axes, 2 pairs crampons, 5 liters water, food, and 2 absolutely useless puffball jackets, plus shades, sunscreen, headlamps, and some rap slings. Climzalot lead out the nastly slab pitch, and off we went. Pitch after pitch of awesome rockclimbing. Every pitch seemed harder than its rating. One pitch is rated 5.8 in one guide, and 10a in another. Kearney's guide is the one to use. Beckey and McLane leave out 3-5 pitches in their route descriptions!!! Useless. Thanks Alan! Some highlights were a 5.9 pitch that was so sustained that it would've be at least a 10b in squamish. Multiple small cams in loose rock. A Mung-a-lot. A cams-a-bit. Plenty of loose rock amid the good rock. Makes sense, how many folks have been on this route? Feel free to email me for more info on the actual pitches, since my spray time is almost over. Topping out was amazing, and the mosquitos were on us once again. We rapped off a shrub to get to our camp instead of going down a talus path to the snow (bad choice). The bugs doubled their intensity as we hung out and enjoyed the views from our camp. (running water, and lots of it). My memory is begging to fade as I continue to sray...I think it took us 11-12 hours on the rock. 14 hours from camp to camp. Also, the big snowpatch ledge right now is seriously snowy and we had a hell of a time getting around it and through the moat. The 4th class was way slimy, runout, and scarry. The desent is easy and knee braces and Vicoden did the trick. And my toenails. PAINLESS!!! Yup, no more hobbling for me. Anyway its hotter than hell and when I got home I wanted to crawl into my closet with a flashlight and a six-pack of beer, suck my thumb, and read childrens books. Instead I meet my landlord in my driveway ready to evict me, my girlfriend in tears, pissed off and she took my truck, and also Climzalot didn't have room for in his car later to go swimming because it was filled with some obviously better friends . To finish, I got on a bike, and now have a bottle of Black Velvet right next to me and some charred animal tissue . Don't you just love alpine climbing? [ 07-23-2002, 11:04 AM: Message edited by: michael_layton ] Quote
layton Posted July 23, 2002 Author Posted July 23, 2002 Just because I posted the TR doesn't mean that Climzalot didn't MORE than do his fair share. He got some of the nastier pitches in my opinion, was an awesome friend and partner, and doesn't spray! I was just poking fun at him about our rerturn to Bellingham, it's hard to convey sarcasm and good-natured chiding over the internet w/o resorting to gremlins and little punctuation emotions , etc... As for Slesse... Did that with Necronomicon last August (late). He too pulled more than his fair share, and also is an awesome partner and friend. Here's the beta: Bear isn't as pretty as Slesse, as far a positions go. Nothin' comes close to how amazing the NE butt on Slesse looks from afar, and the views down below. You can't really see much on bear, as far as exposure goes. The views of the mountains from Bear at the bivy cannot be beat, however, and the rock quality is much much better on Bear. Less scrambling, and mossy licheny rock. Sleese has less splitters, and more broken face cracks. Also the pocket glacier crossing on Slesse is a trip in itself. Oh my God! You can do it w/your nut tool and a sharp rock, but you will probably die if you slip. Serious stuff. The approach for Slesse is like driving to the video store compared to Bear, but the Descent on Slesse is the most grueling, horrible thing ever. Bear is a walk in the park, dum-dee-dum descent to the car. More pitches on Bear, lots more technical climbing, and the 4th class on slesse is WAY easier than bear's 4th class. I reccomend (and this is one of the only times I'll say this) bivying on Slesse. Amazing ledge, water, snafflehounds, and just an awesome place to be. The only other place you should concider bivying on Slesse is on the summit, for the upper ledges suck and are pretty close to the top anyways. Take some NSAIDS for the desent and maybe a pair of neoprene knee braces (it really works wonders). Take 5 liters of water if it's sunny, cuz after the bivy ledge, there ain't shit for water till the car (you're hundreds of feet above the river at the car). There may be snow on the summit, but I don't recall any runoff, and who wants to lug a stove up the route. Take 2 packs if you're gonna bivy. I used a 1/2 bag, a warm coat, my backpack, and the rope to bivy with. A water bladder and a top lid make a good pillow. A bit of advice for the upper pitch were Beckey says that the "left side is easier". He means just a little bit left. Not left of the buttress crest where a 5.7 looking layback flake is. I took that way and it became a full rope legnth of 10b (no joke) with a one nut belay and a traverse back on route. Needless to say, Necronomicon was a bit pissed at me. So Bear = better climbing, better camping views Slesse = more asthetic line and mountain Nothing beats the S.Ridge on Gimley though for fun cool climbing. Quote
Cpt.Caveman Posted July 23, 2002 Posted July 23, 2002 Yeah i just saw a slide show with the SR Of Gimli. YOu can bet my ass is going to be there ! Quote
Peter_Puget Posted July 23, 2002 Posted July 23, 2002 Thanks for the info. My memories of Sleese are limited to the amazing bivi spot. The climbing was not even close to being the quality I was expecting. Everyone seems to concurr with your opinion of the better climbing on Bear. Now post some pics guys! Draw up a topo! Office bound minds need to know! Quote
Cpt.Caveman Posted July 23, 2002 Posted July 23, 2002 My bud just showed me his photos of Slesse today. He just did it in the past few days. I think slesse is pretty hard to beat. Just because the rock is not like index does not mean it aint a sweet line. PP maybe you need some more time on horrible rock like me. I am working on that Great climb guys. One of these days I'll get back down to 160 and be a spiderman I hope haha.! Then I might give it a flail. Quote
Peter_Puget Posted July 23, 2002 Posted July 23, 2002 Bad rock and me don't mix! By the way Sleese except for the very top was pretty solid. Just that the climbing wasn't what I was imagining looking at that ridge. One thing with a car shuttle the descent was pretty straight forward - no funky stuff to give a non-mountaineer type the shivers. Have your friend post some pics of Gimli! Quote
Cpt.Caveman Posted July 23, 2002 Posted July 23, 2002 I dont think he has time to scan them. He's sitting on a far off glacier many miles from a road unlike me Maybe you should ask Layton for the photos? I am putting it at the top of my hit list for next season. Quote
Cpt.Caveman Posted July 23, 2002 Posted July 23, 2002 Some Gimli shots but not as good as the ones I saw. These are Dru's http://www.bivouac.com/img/photo/199_Gimli2.jpg http://www.bivouac.com/img/photo/486_GimliSRidge.jpg http://www.bivouac.com/img/photo/780_gimlisridgep4.jpg http://www.bivouac.com/img/photo/836_gimlistripes.jpg Quote
layton Posted July 23, 2002 Author Posted July 23, 2002 I'll post a topo and photos of Bear when I get a chance. I need to finish my roll of film, delvelop them, then go to WWU and scan them, etc.. May be a long time, but I'll do it. I'll include Gimly and Asguard too, but Dru's photos are almost exactly like mine. Hmmmm.... Erik, I was Vertical Turtle's partner on that. You made fun of me for laybacking. You're right, I don't have any technique. How do you add photos w/o a website to insert from? Do you just cut and paste? [ 07-23-2002, 03:44 PM: Message edited by: michael_layton ] Quote
erik Posted July 23, 2002 Posted July 23, 2002 here ya go mike http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/cgi-bin/album.pl?album=:recent Quote
Cpt.Caveman Posted July 23, 2002 Posted July 23, 2002 I cannot upload them there from my home machine. The server here times out. I submit mine to bivouac.com or my friend's website.... Quote
erik Posted July 23, 2002 Posted July 23, 2002 i didnt do shit mokey, i just posted the link... geez bio-science computer nerds sooo sensitive. Quote
Lambone Posted July 23, 2002 Posted July 23, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman: Some Gimli shots but not as good as the ones I saw. These are Dru's http://www.bivouac.com/img/photo/199_Gimli2.jpg http://www.bivouac.com/img/photo/486_GimliSRidge.jpg http://www.bivouac.com/img/photo/780_gimlisridgep4.jpg http://www.bivouac.com/img/photo/836_gimlistripes.jpg wow that is cool. where is that thing? pardon my canadian alpine ignorance... Quote
Cpt.Caveman Posted July 23, 2002 Posted July 23, 2002 All the stats are here- http://www.bivouac.com/MtnPg.asp?MtnId=2747 its in Valhalla Park. http://www.bivouac.com/TripPg.asp?TripId=1408 ask dru he'd be up for the beta although I know some guys here have done it too but they are being quiet. Quote
Peter_Puget Posted July 24, 2002 Posted July 24, 2002 Goofballs this TR should be on top. So ML, friends tell me this route blows Sleese away. Do you agree. This route almost inspires me to try a real mountain again. Quote
erik Posted July 24, 2002 Posted July 24, 2002 in my ever continuing battle to find a hero/demigod for myself to follow, i would say mike is nearly there!!! good show ole' boy! Quote
Climzalot Posted July 24, 2002 Posted July 24, 2002 Peter, If plans work out as they are currently laid I will be trying to climb Slesse next weekend and I can give you a really fresh comparison of the two climbs. Having not climbed Slesse yet all I can say is that the DNB was fantastic and well worth doing. Highly recommended. Please give a holler if you would like some detailed beta. Enjoy! cgentzel@aai.cc Quote
Climzalot Posted July 24, 2002 Posted July 24, 2002 Peter, If plans work out as they are currently laid I will be trying to climb Slesse next weekend and I can give you a really fresh comparison of the two climbs. Having not climbed Slesse yet all I can say is that the DNB was fantastic and well worth doing. Highly recommended. Please give a holler if you would like some detailed beta. Enjoy! cgentzel@aai.cc Quote
j_b Posted July 25, 2002 Posted July 25, 2002 the upper buttress is stellar climbing on high quality rock. I'd compare it to the NR on Stuart except it is much better. someone did a different start on the lower buttress ~15 years ago. Has it ever been written up? Quote
layton Posted July 25, 2002 Author Posted July 25, 2002 Different than what? I'm sure each party that's tried the lower ridge has done an FA on their 1st pitch Depends on the snow level and moat depth. Unless your talking the very right side of the buttress? Dunno. Once a few pitches up, it's anybody's guess as to what friggin variation your doing??? Quote
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