W. Ridge Forbidden Pt. II

[MountainMan]

Climbed the W. Ridge of Forbidden yesterday. The W. Ridge Couloir was in PERFECT shape. The bergschrund is opened up quite a bit, but is passable on the left via a 6 foot wide snow bridge. I would give the bergschrund another 2-3 weeks before it's impassable. The ridge proper was mainly simul-climbed .. we protected portions of 2 or 3 pitches.

 

There were dozens of people in Boston Basin on Saturday. The snafflehounds must have been quite busy. One of the parties we encountered had their tent eaten through by one of the infamous little critters. Our tent was untouched. They did eat portions of my blue closed foam pad though. Understandable though, because those are quite tasty.

[Norman_Clyde]

My buddy Brad and I climbed it yesterday. Boston Basin was as populated as I'd ever want to see it. Some of you may not agree, but I myself am glad that there's a permit system for this place, otherwise the magic of the place would diminish. The snowbridge to the gully is down to about a foot wide at its apex, as of Sunday. There's hardly room to plant boots and an axe on it at the same time-- actually, since it overhangs a little, our axes poked through to the other side a couple of times. Snow was very soft, but the boot tracks are well packed and solid. Some parties were setting up belays in the gully, since there's no break in the exposure down to the bergschrund, but it would depend on your comfort level. The pair we met at the summit, Gordy and Gus (Lowell, would that be your brother Gordy?) had come up the gully in footwear much closer to rock shoes than mountaineering boots-- slick rubber soles and all. I myself preferred the opposite approach on this mountain, i.e. to climb the rock in mountaineering boots.

 

I unintentionally carried a picket to the summit, and felt silly for not leaving unnecessary gear at the gully top-- but the picket became unexpectedly useful, when it was the only item that could free our stuck rope after a loop slipped down a crack at one belay station.

 

One more thing worth mentioning: there are two big seracs just East of the snow finger which are likely to calve in the next month or so, and when they do, the debris will probably carry all the way to the high camp. Brad and I were napping in the afternoon on Saturday when we heard the rapid approach of a falling object-- it was a very small ice block that flew down the main Eastern gully next to us, but stopped just short of the tents below. We couldn't figure where it had come from until a few hours later, when a small snowfield above and East of the glacier let some more blocks loose. We watched these pick up speed, headed right for us, until they mercifully followed the fall line just to our right and shattered impressively on a rock rib. The seracs are poised to fall in the very same direction. If you camp below the glacier, better to be on the Western side, I would say.

 

[ 07-22-2002, 06:21 PM: Message edited by: Norman Clyde ]

[MountainMan]

I think I saw the ice chunk you're referring to. Were you in the yellow tent that was highest in the basin towards Forbidden? We were standing below the rib it broke up on talking with the ranger when the ice chunk exploded into little pieces. I would echo your concerns about camping below the seracs. With the rapid meltout that's going on now, I wouldn't be surprised to see those go within 2 weeks.

[texplorer]

While we were negotiating the shrund on Sat an oven sized block fell from right below my partner on the snow bridge. When we went up there were not signs of climber in the coulouir until we descended those nice cut steps kicked by 3 parties after us. Norman or MMan, were either of you guys the ones camped under a tarp up on the glacier on sat night?

[Norman_Clyde]

That was me and Brad under the tarp. We actually put it up for shade in the afternoon. We should have taken it down at sunset, because it flapped noisily all night. Our spot was only semi-exposed, since we were behind a hump of snow that offered some protection. I left my big pack at camp, and a marmot chewed away part of the hip belt while we were on the summit. He was still casually hanging around when we got back, completely unintimidated by human beings. Maybe on summer weekends the people outnumber the marmots up there.

[sverdina]

So MountainMan, why don't you tell us why you were moaning like a baboon in heat on the summit? Something to do with too much strong coffee & tabasco sauce as I recall...

[MountainMan]

I think you got the wrong MountainMan

 

And I think those were grunts, not moans.

 

[ 07-23-2002, 03:39 PM: Message edited by: MountainMan ]

[miztflip]

I'll be up there in a few weeks and expect the shrund will be melted out.

 

Any suggestions on other ways to the west ridge?

[j_b]

"Any suggestions on other ways to the west ridge? "

 

~2 4th class pitches in a gully system on the buttress to the left of the couloir. You do not want anyone above you (this includes people at the notch). It is also a rap route.

[Cpt.Caveman]

also you dont want snow and or wet rock there either.

[Michael_V]

Looking to possibly Climb this route this weekend. Anyone have information on recent conditions (or even typical conditions at this time of year). I suspect that the bergshrund is wide open. Being that i have not been on this route before, any advice on how to get around it? Can you scramble past on rock.

Also... how is the couloir this time of year?

Any need for pickets, snow anchors anywhere on the route?

Lastly.. climb it in boots or is it hairy enough to necessitate rock shoes and carrying the boots over the ridge.

 

Any information would be very helpful. Thanks.

 

quote:

---

Originally posted by MountainMan:

Climbed the W. Ridge of Forbidden yesterday. The W. Ridge Couloir was in PERFECT shape. The bergschrund is opened up quite a bit, but is passable on the left via a 6 foot wide snow bridge. I would give the bergschrund another 2-3 weeks before it's impassable. The ridge proper was mainly simul-climbed .. we protected portions of 2 or 3 pitches.

 

There were dozens of people in Boston Basin on Saturday. The snafflehounds must have been quite busy. One of the parties we encountered had their tent eaten through by one of the infamous little critters. Our tent was untouched. They did eat portions of my blue closed foam pad though. Understandable though, because those are quite tasty.

---

[MountainMan]

I would imagine that the Schrund is opened up quite a bit right now (and most probably impassable). There is a way to skirt around the Schrund on rock to the left. I don't know what kind of climbing is involved though. For the ridge proper, climbing boots is fine. I climbed it in tennis shoes and would have been fine with climbing boots. Good luck on your climb and give us a TR when you return.

[ryland_moore]

I think Highlander did the 4th class choss, loose rock scramble to the left of the gully two weeks ago? Highlander, wanna add?

[DPS]

On Sunday, August 11, I descended the West Ridge after clibming the North Ridge. The couloir is in fine shape, I down climbed the entire thing. There is an interesting secion to start, but is very passable. Pickets were not neccessary. Mountain boots work fine for the ridge itself, I would not schelp in rock shoes myself, but it would make it more fun and secure.

[BigWave]

We were in the coloir on 8\15 big moat that you pass by dropping in and scurrying through. The schrund at the bottom had a foot wide bridge as of 8\15. Good luck all.