curtveld Posted October 8, 2005 Share Posted October 8, 2005 Climb: Eldo-Early-Marble-Dorado Circuit- Date of Climb: 9/23/2005 Trip Report: A confusing name for a confusing trip: The highest summit was the easiest; we didn’t set foot on the route we had crossed three glaciers for; and the real crux was barely 5th class. But what a place to close out the summer season! Not much to say about the standard Eldorado approach with 4-day packs, except it really makes you appreciate the views from camp. Aint that NW arête of Forbidden a beauty! After a slow wake up, the ramble up the East ridge went smoothly and we were soon traversing the big glaciers toward Dorado Col, where we found a descent (though dry) bivy spot. Dorado (left), Marble (center) & Praying Mantis (right) from the east We had come for the classic SW face of Early Morning Spire, but were having trouble believing we could move quickly enough, given the chilly temps, short daylight and “party-of-three” factor (yeah, we’re old farts). That’s when the “Dorado tri-fecta” concept was born. From camp we dropped down onto the Marble Glacier, then back up under Dorado’s SW face toward the col behind Early Morning Spire. The nasty melted-out gully at the top looked like a potential stopper, but went via a slab traverse (Andy) and a short dirty wall (by class 3 specialist Peter) - both quite unprotectable. After summiting EMS via the back route (good rock finally), we climbed snow and a jungle gym of garage-door blocks (class 4) up toward Marble Needle. From the ridge, Marble’s summit was attained easily, and a rappel and short glacier traverse got us to the NW col of Dorado. An icy moat blocked the standard access to the rock, so we traversed ramps around right, then back left onto the impeccable NW ridge. Andy quickly led through the huge blocks and amazing knife-edge sections to the summit – easily the nicest climbing of the trip. A rappel and some down climbing got us back to the base, with just enough twilight to weave down through the crevasses to camp. Suddenly, hauling that little flask of Jim Beam and those tuna steak packets seemed well worth the effort. And damn, I guess the SW face will still be there next year. And my memories of crossing endless talus slopes will have faded. Thanks to compadres Andy and Peter for their common sense, good cooking, and fine photos! Gear Notes: Standard glacier and rock gear Approach Notes: Crossed Cascade River on logs about 100' downstream of parking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chad_A Posted October 8, 2005 Share Posted October 8, 2005 Beautiful. Nice TR! Thanks for posting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dberdinka Posted October 8, 2005 Share Posted October 8, 2005 Nice trip Curt and great photos! We still need to hook for beers soon! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
curtveld Posted October 9, 2005 Author Share Posted October 9, 2005 (edited) Definitely, Darin. I'll email you and we can make a plan. Edited October 9, 2005 by curtveld Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
curtveld Posted October 9, 2005 Author Share Posted October 9, 2005 One more thing – we figure our Dorado circuit is a grade IV, since it links two grade I climbs and a II (Nelson calls Dorado a III!). And it took us all day to do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomtom Posted October 10, 2005 Share Posted October 10, 2005 Uncage the Soul! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
curtveld Posted October 11, 2005 Author Share Posted October 11, 2005 Uncage the Soul! Uh…yeah…that’s kinda why we go out into the mountains, right? The TR just passes on a little flavor of the actual experience. And some info, for folks that are interested. Or did I miss the point? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sweatinoutliquor Posted October 11, 2005 Share Posted October 11, 2005 Great TR! Looks like it was a great weekend in a spectacular setting! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toast Posted October 11, 2005 Share Posted October 11, 2005 Shweet Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skeezix Posted October 16, 2005 Share Posted October 16, 2005 Early Morning Spire - It might be quicker to approach via Hidden Lakes Trail Sibley Pass-Triad traverse. Hop over the col between the Triad and Eldo and traverse over to EMS. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
curtveld Posted October 25, 2005 Author Share Posted October 25, 2005 Can't help but wonder if your recommendation is based on personal experience, Skeezix? Having done the Triad approach (nice but long!), I'm thinking I'd take the Roush Creek approach to Eldo-Triad col. With an early start, might get into the cirque and bivy there to shorten the approach and descent. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ashw_justin Posted October 27, 2005 Share Posted October 27, 2005 this "descent bivy"--is that safe? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skykilo Posted October 28, 2005 Share Posted October 28, 2005 Having been to Marble Creek Cirque via the Triad, I think the Eldorado approach is faster. The Triad is probably more scenic, though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
curtveld Posted October 29, 2005 Author Share Posted October 29, 2005 this "descent bivy"--is that safe? Since it's a pretty long traverse from the Eldo-Triad col over to EMS, getting a closer bivy would make for a shorter summit day. You thinking it'd be tough to find a safe bivy spot somewhere near the base of Eldo W ridge? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.