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Beckey

Cascade Alpine Guide Vol2 Corrections

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If you have any corrections or updates to my Cascade Alpine Guide Volume 2 read below.

 

North of Glacier Peak only accepted at this time- Please let me know by sending the necessary information you may have. I recently heard there was some new information concerning the descent on Mt Goode.

 

Other information or corrections welcome. Emails only. Send it to

 

Time for editor cutoff is getting real short. Send the information soon. I will be out of the state soon.

 

Thank you [smile]

 

[ 07-09-2002, 10:27 PM: Message edited by: Beckey ]

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Fred, I have notes on corrections for descent off Goode using SW Couloir. I'll send them asap. I'm at work, notes at home. I'll post here too for others to add/correct. Nelson/Potterfield suggest using Bedayn Couloir, but from what I have read here, most have not been happy with that choice. Wayne and I chose SW Couloir and had no problems.

 

Approach beta might need adjustment as well. Sounds like some folks got "hosed" recently, but this may have been more to their lack of adjustment for lots of snow and raging waterfalls over first cliff bands. Check out: GO GET GOODE in this same forum.

 

[ 07-10-2002, 10:50 AM: Message edited by: David Parker ]

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Fred,

 

My friend Kirk and I had no problems locating your 2nd approach alternative from Bridge Creek to bivy. This alternative is the slab approach. The slabs are so very obvious from below. You were right about both bushwhacks being about 100 yards. Actually, the first between the two slabs is probably less than 100 yards. The second alder bushwhack even has a slightly less overgrown "pathway" through it which we placed a few cairns within, but they'll probably disappear.

 

The only comment I would have as per revision of the CAG info is that you say begin the traverse over to Storm King-Goode Col (after climbing down SW Couloir from summit of Goode) at about the level of the moraine. What I saw is that the corner for traversing is about 100 vertical feet below the obvious moraine. This flattish corner is also obvious as it is the first possible way around toward Storm King (above this is cliffy terrain whose otherside is just as cliffy). Anyone who is capable of climbing Goode should also be capable of figuring this out.

 

You also say that there is a steep section about 500 feet below the summit for the NE Buttress route. This, I feel, may lead some climbers to assume that the climbing would get easier after this section 500 feet below the summit. In actuality, there are some other steep low-class 5 pitches right below the summit. I don't know, it's all in the eye of the beholder or the ability of the climber.

 

===Paul Klenke

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(bla-bla) = eliminate verbage

[bla-bla] = add this verbage

 

From page 316 (second edition)

 

(SOUTHEAST RIDGE DESCENT)

[sOUTHWEST COULOIR DESCENT]

When arriving at the second notch from the summit {Black Tooth Notch}, one can rappel into the SW Couloir; this is the shortest descent. From the summit: Descend 2 long pitches obliquely towards the upper NE Buttress, passing the first sharp ridge notch {class 3-4}. After a continuing down-climb traverse, look for the obvious dirt ledge (leading) [at the same elevation] as the Black Tooth Notch. (Make a short descending traverse on a grassy ledge, then climb 8 ft steeply to the ledge) [Traverse rock ledges 100 ft and step around a corner to reach the notch.] Descend a loose gully-ramp on the W. side for about 100 ft. Look for rappel slings, [also visible from Summit] around a large block, then rappel (40) [140] ft. to reach the SW couloir. [Parties with single rope will find a sloping ledge with another block/slings at 70 feet, {but not visible from above} to reach the couloir in 2 rappels.] When descending the lower part of the couloir, beware of slabby dropoff near its base; bear left and circuit this by an easy ledge beneath white crags.

 

The part about "grassy" ledge and "climb 8 feet" confused us more than helped us. I figured the "40 ft rap" was a typo and meant "140"; a somewhat critical adjustment!

 

I have no comment on your approach across river and up cliff bands since we went a completely different way. You may comment it is possible on the far right of first cliff band as well.

 

Cheers Fred, your work to put out these books is truly as huge and inspiring as the Cascades themselves!

 

[ 07-11-2002, 02:25 PM: Message edited by: David Parker ]

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quote:

Originally posted by Beckey:

Emails only. Send it to fwbeckey@yahoo.com

 

Thank you
[smile]

Good beta guys, but the way I read FB's message suggests you oughta send it via email and that he won't be riding herd on this thread to collect info, since like as not it will straggle off into discussions of large sausages and sexual habits. [big Grin] Its cute to see that Fred will use an emoticon though...

 

[ 07-11-2002, 07:37 AM: Message edited by: Off White ]

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quote:

Originally posted by Off White:

quote:

Originally posted by Beckey:

Emails only. Send it to fwbeckey@yahoo.com

 

Thank you
[smile]

Good beta guys, but the way I read FB's message suggests you oughta send it via email and that he won't be riding herd on this thread to collect info, since like as not it will straggle off into discussions of large sausages and sexual habits.
[big Grin]
Its cute to see that Fred will use an emoticon though...

Yep

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I do believe Capt. Caveman entered that for Fred. If Fred had done it the sentence structure would be more "original". If you ever get into an email exchange with him you will find out just how original [laf]

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Beckey was telling me stories yesterday that he actually ate 2 snafflehounds before. Said he roasted em over fires [big Grin] Maybe he should put a photo of that on his guidebook covers for sales.

 

Just look for the 6 blank emails. Then you know it is him for sure. [Wink]

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Has he ever told you the story of how they started a forest fire on the Squamish Buttress while they were roasting hotdogs for lunch during the first ascent ?

 

[laf][laf][laf][laf]

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quote:

Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman:

Just look for the 6 blank emails. Then you know it is him for sure.
[Wink]

LOL!

 

http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0898868386/qid=1026412666/sr=2-1/ref=sr_2_1/002-9377253-1968848

 

Apparently those punks over at Mountie Books have put a deadline on Fred. Can you believe that shit? Then they sell it for what is in my opinion a much lower price than they should. We should go over to there and give them a public flogging with some horsecock.

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Don't ask me why mine is in here twice. Tim, go ahead and remove if you want. As my previous post says, I posted what I emailed Fred in case anyone wants to add a comment, but Fred did get it via email.

 

Also, here's another funny one....Fred's only an "on belay" member...not yet qualified to be a rope lead!

 

[ 07-11-2002, 12:29 PM: Message edited by: David Parker ]

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quote:

Also, here's another funny one....Fred's only an "on belay" member...not yet qualified to be a rope lead![/QB]

Actually, Fred is now a "LURKER". He doesn't even qualify as a WANKER yet. [laf]

 

He should be given special status by the the CC.com moderators and be allowed to jump straight to CHIEF WANKER.

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