Preventing hanger stealing

[Jim]

I will be teaching some youngen's over at Icicle during the week and on a recent trip noticed two new bolts atop the Barney's Rubble slab without hangers. I was thinking of taking a couple of hangers and bolts, locktite, and a smear of epoxy to keep the hangers from being stolen again. Any other suggestions? I guess I could always mangle the threads a bit. Seems kinda lame to steal the hangers of a beginner TR area.

[EWolfe]

flatten the top of the bolts with a hammer.

[catbirdseat]

It's a chronic problem at Barney's. Jim Yoder and Lucky stamp their initials into their hangers to prevent cheap bastards from stealing to use on their projects, but this may not be why these hangers are disappearing. I think there are some people who want to discourage others from using "their" crag, because they know that with a little extra effort, top rope anchors can be rigged using natural anchors. They figure others will go elsewhere when they can't find convenient anchors.

[layton]

i heard someone trashed some anchors or bolts at mt eerie the other day.

[Dru]

At Squamish there are several anchors without hangers on the bolts that are used by local guides. They just add hangars when they show up with a class and then take the hangers again when they leave. This way they seldom have to worry about another group using "their" anchor.

[sobo]

flatten the top of the bolts with a hammer.

 

I was always taught that pounding on a bolt was a bad thing. Better to take a pair of vise-grips, clamp 'em down tight around the threads, and spin the pliers a few revolutions. Release, re-tighten, spin again. Repeat as necessary.

 

Dru's advice would work well, too. Make sure you have the right thread/pitch for the nuts so you don't phuk up the threads for everybody else.

[catbirdseat]

I'd heard that the guides in Squamish are so pricey that one can "import" one from California for less money, even with covering air fare.

[Dru]

A "guide" in California is anyone that feels like calling themselves one. If you were building a house, would you hire a professional engineer, or a guy who decided one day that he'd call himself an engineer? If you need your appendix removed, would you go to a doctor, a veterinarian, or some guy in your trailer park that has a sharp knife and who's watched ER a few times?

[EWolfe]

That onea them there reetorical questions?

[ScottP]

More like the mumblings of insecurity ...

[Drederek]

If you were building a house, would you hire a professional engineer, or a guy who decided one day that he'd call himself an engineer?

I built a house designed by an engineer once, what a mess that was, architects are bad enough. Have had much better luck with house designers, AKA self proclaimed engineers.

BTW stealing is lame

Edited September 24, 2005 by Drederek

[EWolfe]

flatten the top of the bolts with a hammer.

 

I was always taught that pounding on a bolt was a bad thing.

 

I wasn't. Agree to disagree?

 

If you're cranking the bolts down like you should be, the impact is absorbed by the nut, not the anchor. I am not talking about whanging the crap out of the bolt, just a few strategic strikes on the bolt edge. Check the nut, as well.

If you use Powers 4 or 5 piece, 5 minute epoxy on the bolt threads does the trick.

 

 

E

[Off_White]

flatten the top of the bolts with a hammer.

 

I was always taught that pounding on a bolt was a bad thing.

 

I wasn't. Agree to disagree?

 

 

Noob.

 

Not pounding on existing bolts has been a long standing practice. In fact, I just read that instruction again yesterday, in the intro of the most current Brown Beckey. In truth, I suspect it does go back to the day of Rawl split shank bolts, Star Dryvins, and the like, but I don't see any reason why it would be a useful thing to do to any bolt. If it's loose, you're not going to make it better by whacking on it.

[MisterMo]

Red loctite and Stover nuts (not nylocs) oughta do it.

[snoboy]

Petzl Longlife bolts.