OlegV Posted September 1, 2005 Posted September 1, 2005 Looking for a partner to climb Cassin Ridge of Denali May-June 2006. Quote
ivan Posted September 1, 2005 Posted September 1, 2005 oleg, you crazy bastard, don't do expeditions w/ total stangers! find a goofy-fuck friend and get 'em fired up... i't trade you - if you go cragging w/ me this weekend, i'll let you lead all the hard ice pitches on denali Quote
OlegV Posted September 1, 2005 Author Posted September 1, 2005 You are right - first, I'd like to see good friendship development in Christmas bivy on Willis Wall. Here is some interesting TR from Cassin Ridge by Allen Sanderson: http://www.terragalleria.com/mountain/info/ice/mk-allen.html Quote
OlegV Posted September 1, 2005 Author Posted September 1, 2005 i't trade you - if you go cragging w/ me this weekend, i'll let you lead all the hard ice pitches on denali got something rolling this weekend - may get cancelled because of weather. Love to do Beackon Rock some day. Got to climb it in crampons though Quote
John Frieh Posted September 1, 2005 Posted September 1, 2005 Got to climb it in crampons though Don't tell JosephH Get your butt out to dt night if you want to wear crampons. Quote
OlegV Posted September 1, 2005 Author Posted September 1, 2005 Get your butt out to dt night if you want to wear crampons. How did I miss dt?! Quote
ivan Posted September 1, 2005 Posted September 1, 2005 it'll be rolling round here as soon as the sky starts shitting endless quantities of water - after we get hard at the butte we can move over to nolse's uber-secret projects in the gorge! Quote
sobo Posted September 1, 2005 Posted September 1, 2005 AmberB, It's been 16 months; where ya been? Quote
John Frieh Posted September 2, 2005 Posted September 2, 2005 it'll be rolling round here as soon as the sky starts shitting endless quantities of water - after we get hard at the butte we can move over to nolse's uber-secret projects in the gorge! Assuming I can hike my fat ass up them in the first place I can't believe Oleg has been on this site this long and not heard/seen DT night! Oleg and Ivan how soon you want to start back up? Quote
OlegV Posted September 2, 2005 Author Posted September 2, 2005 I can't believe Oleg has been on this site this long and not heard/seen DT night! Of cause, I heard of DT nights - you guys have crazy schedule though - first, I have to get unemployed. Quote
ivan Posted September 2, 2005 Posted September 2, 2005 crazy schedule? it's midweek,usually, and just in the evenign whenever you can show - come winter we're always doing it int he dark anyway... nolse, i can start back up this coming week - now that's scool's here it'll have to suffice for my clibing fix during the week Quote
Chad_A Posted September 2, 2005 Posted September 2, 2005 Oleg, look me up. I live a mile away from Rocky Butte. NOLSe will get a date set, you can meet me here, and we'll go scrape up some rock. Maybe we can rope Donn into that, eh? Quote
Chad_A Posted September 2, 2005 Posted September 2, 2005 Oh, and then we'll have to do a pub club somewhere, and talk lots of shit. Quote
OlegV Posted September 2, 2005 Author Posted September 2, 2005 Oleg, look me up. I live a mile away from Rocky Butte. NOLSe will get a date set, you can meet me here, and we'll go scrape up some rock. Maybe we can rope Donn into that, eh? Chad, I didn't realize you live that close to rock! How many potential lines are up there? Quote
OlegV Posted September 2, 2005 Author Posted September 2, 2005 The main difficulty for a North-West climber in any long expedition is the lack of beer: Quote
John Frieh Posted September 2, 2005 Posted September 2, 2005 I will be out all next week trying to remove what skin I have left from my hands and in general trying to kill myself so the earliest I could start back up would the 13th of Sept. Ivan knows where all the lines are at... he could show you guys around. I vote we move this discussion to the PDX climb night thread and you guys hash out what nights work best for you. I'm available for up to 3 midweek nights per week anytime. Quote
Kraken Posted September 4, 2005 Posted September 4, 2005 Oleg, whatever happened to the West Rib? I'll be on that route in May and I think I have a great partner lined up already. Could use a third though... Quote
OlegV Posted September 5, 2005 Author Posted September 5, 2005 Clint, West Rib is my second choice. I am definetly doing Denali in May. All depends how hard I train on rock this winter. I still don't have a clear idea how hard the rock is on Cassin. Thanks for the invite! Quote
Kraken Posted September 7, 2005 Posted September 7, 2005 Either way, if we climb together or seperate, you should plan a few extra days after Denali (Should we somehow survive...haha) to hang out in Anchorage. Plus, We'll have to celebrate and get rowdy in Talkeetna after our return. Hopefully the Fairview will be open by then. Quote
W Posted September 7, 2005 Posted September 7, 2005 I still don't have a clear idea how hard the rock is on Cassin. Attached is a photo of the first rock crux- steep, and somewhat friable, but good protection. Felt like 5.8 with a pack, but probably more like 5.4 Quote
W Posted September 7, 2005 Posted September 7, 2005 Attached is another photo, this one looking down the crux rock pitch in the second rock band at 16,000'. Looks a little intimidating as you approach from below but is actually very straightforward with good protection. There is nothing truly difficult on the Cassin, there is just a lot of technical climbing stretched over a huge amount of terrain with all the attendant issues of Alaska climbing--- most of all, luck with the weather. Good luck! Quote
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