goatboy Posted April 8, 2002 Share Posted April 8, 2002 I wanted to see if anyone out there has any routes to recommend on Chablis Spire. I saw a slide show recently which got me interested, but I don't remember which route was featured in the show. The rock looked great, however. I have Beckey's bible, but wanted to get some input outside of his descriptions, as well as some evaluation of the quality of the routes (something Beckey's book is often lacking). Any beta on route choice, recommended gear, etc is welcome. Thanks in advance. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dberdinka Posted April 8, 2002 Share Posted April 8, 2002 The standard route (east side I think) is a wonderful little climb on granite equal in quality to anything in the Washington Pass area. I remember it being 3 pitches and about 5.6-5.7 though generally easier. The route is fairly obvious with the final short pitch climbing up (and down) the very exposed "ear" that forms the summit. Bring a small rack. If it were 4 hours closer to the road it would be as crowded as the Becky Route on Liberty Bell. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Off_White Posted April 9, 2002 Share Posted April 9, 2002 Hmmm, I'd recommend one right next door on Silver Star, the face of the big buttress that faces the basin. Good line, good rock, hard route though: IV 5.11- My friend Steve and I have been trying to get someone to go do the 2nd ascent for going on a decade now... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Szyjakowski Posted April 9, 2002 Share Posted April 9, 2002 quote: Originally posted by goatboy: I wanted to see if anyone out there has any routes to recommend on Chablis Spire. I saw a slide show recently which got me interested, but I don't remember which route was featured in the show. The rock looked great, however. I have Beckey's bible, but wanted to get some input outside of his descriptions, as well as some evaluation of the quality of the routes (something Beckey's book is often lacking). Any beta on route choice, recommended gear, etc is welcome. Thanks in advance. Steve pm retrosaurous...i am pretty sure he did it about 5-6years ago Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted April 9, 2002 Share Posted April 9, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Off White: Hmmm, I'd recommend one right next door on Silver Star, the face of the big buttress that faces the basin. Good line, good rock, hard route though: IV 5.11- My friend Steve and I have been trying to get someone to go do the 2nd ascent for going on a decade now... Hey OffWhite is that route included in the Red Beckey book? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Off_White Posted April 9, 2002 Share Posted April 9, 2002 Dru: Nope, it didn't make it to press before the latest edition of the red book, and Burdo didn't include it either. It was in the AAJ awhile back. On page 288 in the red book, you'll see the buttress on the left end of the silver star massif. Starts at the lowest rock on the left, three pitches on the lower buttress, seven more on the upper triangular buttress, and a few hundred feet of moderate blocky alpine play to make the ridge. Crux is the 10th pitch, a great slightly overhanging hand & finger crack. Damned glad that wasn't my lead... I've got a topo around, I could figure out how to scan and send to you if you're interested. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted April 9, 2002 Share Posted April 9, 2002 No, see, when I looked at that photo in the Beckey book I wondered why no one had climbed that line actually... arent there a few other potential lines in that same vicinity? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Off_White Posted April 9, 2002 Share Posted April 9, 2002 Umm, actually Dru, I don't think so, no, no other lines. These are not the droids you are looking for.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted April 9, 2002 Share Posted April 9, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Off White: Umm, actually Dru, I don't think so, no, no other lines. These are not the droids you are looking for.... I see no lines. That rock is choss. Where is Silver Star, isnt it up by Vernon? Granite is evil. "Looks good from a distance but not close up". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobbyperu Posted April 26, 2002 Share Posted April 26, 2002 goatboy... i imagine youre getting stoked to be leaving the palouse for your summer stint in the valley, and if your inqueries lead you up to the spires you wont be disapointed... as for chablis, the regular route is super fun. and a good compliment i've found is to do the south face of pernod directly from the notch between these two spires. this combo gives you a really cool jaunt up chablis on mostly mid fifth with occasional harder if you so desire, to a cool exposed little summit. then follow ramps around to the north to the notch and continue in one pitch directly up the south face on pernod (.9) really cool climbing... right to the base of the 12' summit block. 2 original bolts( read: beckeys challenge of the cascades,) old and pulling out, will set you on a crazy little summit in the heart of one of the coolest spots around! from there call it a good day, or continue, and link the "rebel yell" on chianti, and the n. face of burgundy, for an even better day linking the wine spire group! a worthwhile link-up in a magical area... see ya around shazama. kevin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Picketeer Posted April 29, 2002 Share Posted April 29, 2002 http://antares.sc.suu.edu/climbing/ Â Check out the above link for the Beckey route up Chablis Spire. Follow the Wine Spires link. Great granite! Awesome exposure atop the spire! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted April 30, 2002 Share Posted April 30, 2002 ooh look at that clean solid granite Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lambone Posted April 30, 2002 Share Posted April 30, 2002 are you sure...looks a bit mossy to me... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greenfork Posted April 30, 2002 Share Posted April 30, 2002 Well, at least those pieces of talus on the ledge are solid. And that's clean dirt I see. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted April 30, 2002 Share Posted April 30, 2002 Looks stellar good work Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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