turn_one Posted October 4, 2001 Share Posted October 4, 2001 so what's the story on this peak? new to the climbing up here and saw the peak for the first time the other day from wa 530. any enjoyable/solo-able routes any could recommend?? looking to do something this weekend and i'm too damn lazy for stuart. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike_Collins Posted October 4, 2001 Share Posted October 4, 2001 I have summited Whitehorse from both the LonePine approach and the direct glacier route up the north side which you saw from SR530. It is too late in the year for a day trip for two reasons. The footing on this peak is so low that the elevation gain is around 5,400'. The day is too short. But more importantly there is serious bergsrund trouble near the top. You will be five feet from the summit block and then sixty feet beneath the top. In June you can just walk on steep snow to almost the top. You really would be better off trying this one in May/June. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodeo Posted October 4, 2001 Share Posted October 4, 2001 Mike, I've heard that Whitehorse is in the "Climbing Washington" guide. Does that book have the best info on this peak or do you know of something better? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turn_one Posted October 4, 2001 Author Share Posted October 4, 2001 sound advice mike, perhaps i'll wait. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattp Posted October 4, 2001 Share Posted October 4, 2001 Mike is right about the moat at the top, but I bet there is a way to deal with it if you are so inclined. And if not, you would be able to climb to within 60 feet of the summit anyway. If you might be into something a little more adventurous, I have other plans for the next couple of weeks, but I would like to try a traverse from Three Fingers and descend the regular route on Whitehorse, and I think the Fall would be a great time for such an outing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
klar404 Posted October 4, 2001 Share Posted October 4, 2001 climbed it the winter of 94. lone tree pass route. Two days: first in waist high powder to lone tree pass;second had sugar snow on the summit pitch.Matt P, have you been up in the basin betwixt Whitehorse and Three fingers? Went up there 6-7 years ago to climb south side of Whitehorse. Ended up scrambiling up Buckeye and checking out the plane wreck below Poptart tower.South face looked weird, at the time, but I didn't know how to climb back then.Now that i've lost all sense it sounds appealling. I've heard Bullen has HUGE crystals near the summit.Thanks for the sweet topo on Dreamer. Finally got around to finishing that climb this last weekend. cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattp Posted October 5, 2001 Share Posted October 5, 2001 I have not been up to that basin, but it would of course be right in the middle of the traverse I mentioned just above. Any takers? (In addition to a lot of boring hiking, it is sure to have unprotected dirty glacier ice, brush, scree travel, poor rock, and maybe even some death defying heather climbing -- but I think it would make an interesting weekend.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Posted October 5, 2001 Share Posted October 5, 2001 I'm interested. Send me an email. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jman Posted October 5, 2001 Share Posted October 5, 2001 I did this earlier this year (June, I think). The "direct" route up Snow Gulch I heartily do NOT recommend - you'd be in for several days of serious bushwhacking up steep slopes of devil's club. Early season is best when avalanche danger is low yet snow still covers most of the brush (just as Beckey's book says). A far better/easier route is via Lone Tree Pass. Relentless switchbacks that begin immediately will gain you elevation on the Niederprum trail. Not sure what conditions are like now without snow cover over LTP and up to High Pass, but (again) earlier in the season is the best time to do this "beast". Don't underestimate the time and effort needed for this deceptive mountain. Elevation gain is well over 6000 ft (when you factor in elev lost on the 'backside') and about 14 miles roundtrip. And the distance from the top of the glacier to the true summit this late in the season is much longer than usual and I've heard it's a crappy scramble/climb on very rotten rock. Have fun. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted October 5, 2001 Share Posted October 5, 2001 quote: Originally posted by Mike Collins: It is too late in the year for a day trip for two reasons. The footing on this peak is so low that the elevation gain is around 5,400'. The day is too short. Headlamps? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rat Posted October 10, 2001 Share Posted October 10, 2001 multi-pitch bolted route on/near whitehorse: truth or fiction? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattp Posted October 10, 2001 Share Posted October 10, 2001 Squire Creek Wall has several multi-pitch routes, and some are bolted. The approaches are brushy and scary, and the bolts are generally 1/4" or even 3/16", mostly without hangers on them. The only published information is at cands.net. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted October 10, 2001 Share Posted October 10, 2001 quote: Originally posted by mattp: Squire Creek Wall has several multi-pitch routes, and some are bolted. The approaches are brushy and scary, and the bolts are generally 1/4" or even 3/16", mostly without hangers on them. The only published information is at cands.net. How do you find those 3/16" bolts, with a magnifying glass or what?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattp Posted October 10, 2001 Share Posted October 10, 2001 quote: Originally posted by Dru: How do you find those 3/16" bolts, with a magnifying glass or what?? Some are easy to find, while others are hard to spot even if you are right beneath them. I agree, it is odd that someone would have used such small bolts, but most of what is up there is pretty odd. While the whole thing is not very user friendly given the approach, the route development, and the lack of a reasonable descent route, I should say that it is never-the-less a beautiful cliff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
offwidthclimber Posted October 10, 2001 Share Posted October 10, 2001 ...and complete with some *interesting* Darrington D class approaches. what a great place! fine adventure climbing from my one experience there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marek Posted October 15, 2001 Share Posted October 15, 2001 not to be a smart ass,the elevation gain is around 6,600ft if you are going over lone- tree pass.i did it twice,once in april and then in may.avalanche danger on those occasions was very high,for some reason it always is!!!? on april trip there was snow all way up to the top.on that may trip bergshrund was insurmountable,so i went right and up to the ridge,class4-5?.it is a fantastic peak,but why do it now?if you insist on bushwaking there is some in my back-yard!winter and spring 100%.good luck when the snow comes and wach-out for avalanches!!!!!!!! quote: Originally posted by Dru: Headlamps? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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