DonnV Posted July 30, 2005 Share Posted July 30, 2005 Climb: West MacMillan Spire-West Ridge and summit bivy Date of Climb: 7/26/2005 Trip Report: After reading about zoroastr and EJohnson's day climb of West MacMillan Spire, and the comment that it would have been nice to spend more time in the area, I thought it would make for a great summit bivy. I had never been into the Southern Pickets, and this seemed like a good opportunity to get in there for a look. I left the car just before 8:30 Tuesday morning, figuring that if two young studs could get to the summit in 6 1/2 hours carrying a few pounds each, and old guy carrying about 30 pounds should be able to get there in 12 or so, in time to enjoy the sunset. I cleverly lightened my load a bit by forgetting a couple pounds of food in the cooler in the car. I was 2 hours in when I realized that and not about to go back, although it did help me later decide to cut my trip from 3 nights to 2. I hiked steadily, but wasn't rushing it, and actually enjoyed the approach. The trail was much better than I expected. I hit the notch above Terror Basin in 6 hours, and knew I was good for time, so took it very easy from there on, concentrating on stopping and guzzling water at every chance before heading up onto the glacier. The snow approach was straightforward, although the top of the snow near the ridge notch is melting away pretty fast. The steps from the two speed guys exited left over what is now a precariously thin bridge. I went right and had 100 feet or so of some loose gully grunge to get to the crest. I hit the summit exactly 10 1/2 hours from the car, just before 7, plenty of time to enjoy a great evening. I tossed down my gear in one of two previously used bivy sites, and spent the next few hours mostly being amazed at the views, shooting dozens of pictures, reading the summit register, and spreading out my huge map of the NCNP to identify as many peaks as I could. Weather was perfect, no bugs anywhere, I had water, food, bourbon and cigars and pretty much felt like a kid in a candy store looking at what was around me. After a great sunset, I eventually hit the sack, waking in time to start shooting dozens more sunrise pictures. Really an amazing place to spend the night. Worth carrying a few extra pounds up there and highly recommended! After plenty more lounging on top, I headed down to where I had stashed my stove and some food at the bottom of the glacier. I had planned on maybe checking out the crossing of the Barrier, but decided to let that wait for another trip when I wasn't solo. Besides, about a day's worth of my food was sitting back at the car, I was near the end of my book, I was dangerously low on cigars, and I had foolishly drunk all my bourbon on the summit. So, deciding I'd spend one more night over on the gravel bars on the other side of Terror Basin, I just stayed there a while at the edge of the glacier, guzzled water, cooked some breakfast, read my book and napped in the sun. I eventually sauntered on across the basin and spent a leisurely afternoon finishing my book, food and cigars (what was I thinking not bringing more bourbon?). I really enjoyed my instant mashed potatoes, but they would have been so much better with some parmesan (did I mention I left some food in the car?). I was on my way just after 7 AM and had an easy unhurried hike out. The three guys I met coming up the trail in the woods were the only people I saw the entire time. I reached the car (where, by the way, there was plenty of food) just before 1 PM. Great trip! I'll be in the Northern Pickets next week and, having spent an evening and morning staring at Fury and Luna, it will be that much more enjoyable looking back south from there. Here are a few of the zillion shots I took from the summit. Baker and Shuksan at sunset, with Inspiration, Degenhardt and Terror in foreground Same shot a bit more to the north North beyond Picket Pass at sunset View toward Baker at sunrise North beyond Picket Pass at sunrise Fury and Luna at sunrise. Redoubt off in the distance. Looking back down into Terror Basin at sunrise Luna Peak and my bivy site at sunrise Jack Mountain at sunrise Hozomeen peaks at sunrise Mt Triumph at sunrise Gear Notes: Ice Axe Aluminum crampons - used on my morning descent, but could have made do without, and probably wouldn't have used later in the day. Approach Notes: At my pace, there was water accessible at about 50 minutes where the trail touches Goodell Creek, then at about 1:35 at the stream just before the old road ends and the trail heads uphill. At the second large dry creek crossing up above timberline (5200?), there was water if you went up the streambed 2-3 minutes, which is the best way to go anyway. There was still barely running water and pools where the trail continues off to the left. For me, this was about 2 3/4 hours from the last water. There were a few minor flows from there to the notch above Terror Basin. After that you have water everywhere all the way to the edge of the glacier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chriznitch Posted July 30, 2005 Share Posted July 30, 2005 nice Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
To_The_Top Posted July 30, 2005 Share Posted July 30, 2005 Great pics! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chad_A Posted July 30, 2005 Share Posted July 30, 2005 Holy shit! Wow, could you post a couple more beautiful pics?! Very nice, Donn. Wish I could've been on that one Nice TR! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoroastr Posted July 30, 2005 Share Posted July 30, 2005 Gr8 shots, Donn. BTW: the "two young studs" who did the earlier 6 1/2-hr climb are: Erick Johnson - 34 years old, and John Cain [zoroastr] - 47 years old. --If we happen to meet on the trail, you'll know me by the gray hair and the faint aroma of Ben Gay and pipe tobacco... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoshK Posted July 30, 2005 Share Posted July 30, 2005 One of the best TRs I have ever read! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DonnV Posted July 30, 2005 Author Share Posted July 30, 2005 Josh - Thanks. I love summit bivies and have done a ton of them, but have trouble thinking of one so scenic. It was one of the most enjoyable trips I've done in a while. Gr8 shots, Donn. BTW: the "two young studs" who did the earlier 6 1/2-hr climb are: Erick Johnson - 34 years old, and John Cain [zoroastr] - 47 years old. --If we happen to meet on the trail, you'll know me by the gray hair and the faint aroma of Ben Gay and pipe tobacco... Now I'm really impressed! But you're still "young studs." Damn near everyone is to me these days. I turned 55 a couple months ago, and I was thinking up there that I might be able to get up there in under 8 hours with a light pack. But it would probably take me just as long to get down. Good on you for staying in that kind of shape. I know it's not that easy! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chad_A Posted July 31, 2005 Share Posted July 31, 2005 I can't help but chime in here. 55 years old, or not, Donn does a great job of humbling us "youngsters" in the hills, every time we're out with him. I'm jealous, because I'd like to get out and do something like this particular solo trip. Quite a beautiful area. Thanks for the inspiration! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Juan Posted July 31, 2005 Share Posted July 31, 2005 Great TR Donn. Going for all the right reasons. Though I've been on top of West Mac. twice (1987 and 2004), I've never had the foresight to take bivi gear to the summit. Good thinking, and great photos. Keep it up, old timer. John Sharp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OlegV Posted August 2, 2005 Share Posted August 2, 2005 Donn, your pictures are awesome! I like your obsession for summit bivies. How much bourbon is needed per a summit day? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thelawgoddess Posted August 2, 2005 Share Posted August 2, 2005 wow; the pickets look awesome!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
layton Posted August 2, 2005 Share Posted August 2, 2005 it's only a model Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fourteenfour Posted March 9, 2015 Share Posted March 9, 2015 terrible views from that bivy site... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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