[TR] Mt. Garfield- Infinite Bliss 7/15/2005

[wrangler]

Climb: Mt. Garfield-Infinite Bliss

 

Date of Climb: 7/15/2005

 

Trip Report:

We headed up to climb IB after gathering some route info (thanks AlpineDave and matt_m). The approach was easy since there was a cairn on the side of the road where the trail started that took us all the way to the base of the climb. We simul-climbed the first 5 pitches in one push, stopping when we ran out our 25 draws. (other gear: a few nuts, and a couple of small cams—micro cams would have been more useful than the #2 and #5 Metolius cams we had. ) We simul-climbed the route except for the 5.10 pitches and the upper head-wall. Route-finding seemed fairly straight-forward for this type of climb. The only real challenges were a couple of the transition zones between pitches (no surprise).

Even though I had read and re-read the beta for the 4th class area above the 14th pitch, I still had some difficulties. It wasn’t too difficult finding the grassy 4th class ramp, and I even spotted the 3ft high cedar bush mentioned in some other TRs, although I passed it about 20ft too low on the face. It must have been the exposure without any gear in and not wanting to commit to cutting straight up that prevented me from heading directly up the face. The route appeared to head up to the break in the trees at the top of the 4th class choss, but striking out, straight up the face took more faith than I had. So, I wussed out and decided to follow the comfortable, grassy ramp all the way up and right to the trees, where at least I could sling something. From there, I traversed across, slinging a couple more trees (noting the bail webbing and slings along the way) and eventually connecting back into the bolt line halfway into the next pitch. The upper headwall had the most memorable pitches, especially the blocky, traversing 22nd pitch (picture), where all the exposure finally sets in.

Just as we summited, clouds rolled in and began to shower on us. So after an abbreviated summit lull, we beat a hasty retreat, simul-rapping on gri-gris down to the dreaded, mandatory 4th class downclimb. Our last rap off the upper head wall left us only about 30ft above the cedar bush. The wet loose downclimb was an attention-getter, but not all that bad in the end. Another rap/downclimb off the small bush got us back to chains. We finally made it back to our (wet) packs after too many hours of pulling and rapping on heavy, soggy ropes. Ahhh.

Overall, the climb was enjoyable in an endurance-fest sort of way with tons of altitude gain, but minimal amounts of “whoa” exposure. I’m glad I did the route, but I probably won’t do it again, mostly because I wouldn’t want to do that many back-to-back slab pitches without a single crack to jam. Would I recommend the climb? If you like tons of slab climbing on bolts, with beautiful views, and can handle a spicy, mostly unprotected, 4th class section about 2000ft off the deck…go for it.

 

http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/showphoto.php?photo=11945&sort=1&cat=503

http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/showphoto.php?photo=11962&sort=1&cat=500

http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/showphoto.php?photo=11963&sort=1&cat=500

[sweatinoutliquor]

Cool Dude! Sounds like a fun climb! Post a picture or two in the gallery and then copy the link into your post so us Oregonians can drool a bit!

[David Yount]

Hey man, Sounds like you tore it up. What was your car to car?

 

tks

[Rad]

The forecast calls for chilly reception and Raindawg.

[Off_White]

FYI, recent debate amongst the mods has yielded the conclusion that there is less tolerance of Spray in TR's in the Regional Forums than there is in the Rock Climbing forum, where ethical debate is more the norm.

[kevbone]

FYI, recent debate amongst the mods has yielded the conclusion that there is less tolerance of Spray in TR's in the Regional Forums than there is in the Rock Climbing forum, where ethical debate is more the norm.

 

Thank you!

[billcoe]

Thank you!

 

May I have another?

 

(picture)

[Jens]

The forecast calls for chilly reception and Raindawg.

You called it.

[pink]

The forecast calls for chilly reception and Raindawg.

 

 

don't forget Joseph Healy, he loves that route