highclimb Posted August 21, 2001 Share Posted August 21, 2001 anyone been up there? is the moat crossable? thinking of attempt on sunday. any beta? thanks in advance, Aidan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted August 22, 2001 Share Posted August 22, 2001 Go fer it Aidan and good luck homey You'll probably run up the thing. Just throw yer partner on to the moat and step across Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CascadeClimber Posted August 22, 2001 Share Posted August 22, 2001 I haven't been up there this year, but I climbed the North Face last Aug 27. The moat crossing was a non-issue then, partially because of how the base of the route meets the snow. We were able to walk down into the moat and onto the rock. Mellow, and I was glad to have crampons. If it is bad you can traverse into the upper part of the route from near the col via some lovely Beckey 4th class slabs. Cheers- Loren Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr._Blister Posted August 22, 2001 Share Posted August 22, 2001 I heard the moat is full of alligators. Take raw hamburger. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
highclimb Posted August 22, 2001 Author Share Posted August 22, 2001 nice y'all. thanks for the info. Â aidan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
highclimb Posted August 22, 2001 Author Share Posted August 22, 2001 one other Q+A what kind of shoes should i bring? my makalus or my merral trail running ones? is the snow really that steep? will it help to bring maks and crampons? Lorren? Â thank you again, Aidan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philfort Posted August 22, 2001 Share Posted August 22, 2001 Here's what it's like: 45 degrees for a short bit, then gets easier. In this particular case, I kicked steps with my plastics (no crampons), and my friend, who just had leather hikers, used them as footsteps. In climbing back up the snow (after we bailed), he fixed our one pair of crampons to his boots. You may be ok with stiff boots and no crampons. But doing it again, I would probably take light leather hikers and put those aluminum stubai crampons on them - that's a rockin' combo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted August 22, 2001 Share Posted August 22, 2001 tennis shoes adian, you got hike some miles to get there and the old skool way of big boots is a waste of energy. you can fit those plastic bailed crampons on any shoe. if you want give me a call and i will loan you mine. no more boots...no more boots!!!!!!!!!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CascadeClimber Posted August 22, 2001 Share Posted August 22, 2001 It was a long way to haul crampons to wear for only 20 minutes, but the day was cool and overcast and the snow was quite firm. I was glad to be in my Makalus and step-ins. It would have been doable, thought a bit desperate without the points. And yes, it is close to 45 degrees for a bit. YMMV -Loren Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted August 22, 2001 Share Posted August 22, 2001 I am also a fan of the tennies baby! I would loan you my shredders but I dont plan on being around tomorrow or this weekend. Good luck Aidain Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
highclimb Posted August 23, 2001 Author Share Posted August 23, 2001 if i brought my maks could i climb the route in them?  if i brought my merrals could i get by desending the snow with crampons on them? if i brought my merrals could i climb the route in them? that glacier makes it so complicated!...grrrr  aidan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philfort Posted August 23, 2001 Share Posted August 23, 2001 quote: Originally posted by highclimb: that glacier makes it so complicated!...grrrr maybe you should move to California! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted August 23, 2001 Share Posted August 23, 2001 adian, i would say go with the tennies, bring your pons' , climb the route in your tennies and descend. i know oyu can do it. and if you want your ski poles back let me know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CascadeClimber Posted August 23, 2001 Share Posted August 23, 2001 Yes to all. I wore my rock shoes, but I am not a great rock climber. The first half is pretty moderate and juggy. The slab section is fun and also moderate, but pretty runout. It is harder in the corner where there is a bit of pro, and easier in the middle, where there is no pro. You'll cruise it. Strap on the nitro! ;-) -Loren Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
highclimb Posted August 24, 2001 Author Share Posted August 24, 2001 erik, is there anyway i could borrow your strap on crampons because i only have step ins. and lets not start with the strap on jokes again lorren, thank you again for the info phil, california scares me! Aidan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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