Chalk - you've got to be kidding me...

[flyingpig]

Never been downunder before, and

 

I hope that never happends to me.

 

Does anybody know how many feet of this forum I have to fill in order to become an active member?

[flyingpig]

Page six. Wake me up when we get to page eighteen.

[flyingpig]

gay baiting redneck. i actually take that as a compliment, but could you please write at my level and not use those big college type words. i actually appreciated your messeage and really don't take offense to it. the rock needs some intelligent types. my tough guy stance is all for show, and as far as alienating goes. i don't see joeseph building any bridges. its seems as if this internet thing is kind of pulling you guys apart not together. climbers need to stick together. we are a minority. as far as my anonymity goes, that is my choice. i don't know you, and that does not bother me. i'm not so sure any of our comments matter. hell, i will be dead in fifty years, but brian i have knowledge of how things work at the rock. it just can't handle heavy traffic. we don't need to advertise. it's kind of a secret, and it should be kept that way. i'm glad that we share a common thought.

[markd]

flying pig,

i'm confused by your last post. who is brian? who are you responding to?

[phillygoat]

it's kind of a secret, and it should be kept that way.

 

Somebody forgot to tell Tim Olson.

 

Oh, Kev and I did YW last night in the cool temps and I made it well into the 4th pitch before I gave in and dipped. Great fun!

 

(Oops! I meant to say it was a runout choss pile with rusty bolts!)

[mythosgrl]

I have only needed chalk for 2 moves while i have been climbing. Maybe i just don't have overly sweaty hands like some foks, but all in all usually if you move fast enough sweat is not a problem.

 

My rant is about people using chalk in the climbing gyms (or at least at the climbing wall at Western). I feel like I'm breathing it the entire time. The holds are so chalked you can't even see the color of the holds!! If i ever do get my hands a little sweaty, i just have to bang them against the chalky walls.

 

Chalk is for chumps.

[RuMR]

hmmm...yeah, don't need it on anything easy...gets hard though and i start dippin'...

[markd]

Somebody forgot to tell Tim Olson.

 

Oh, Kev and I did YW last night in the cool temps and I made it well into the 4th pitch before I gave in and dipped. Great fun!

 

(Oops! I meant to say it was a runout choss pile with rusty bolts!)

 

it's my understanding that they did try to keep it out of olsen's book.

Edited August 17, 2006 by markd

[flyingpig]

you ever notice that locals don't write guide books on their own crags.

[Heydude]

you ever notice that locals don't write guide books on their own crags.

 

Ain't that the truth. What up pig. It was killer getting back in touch with you.

 

I learned how to climb out at beacon 14 years ago and never saw any of you guys out there. JH included and we were out there 5 days a week. We had it all to ourselves. Sounds like those days are over. I agree with the pig and kevbone (deffinately two different people) to keep the arguements off the net and on the rock.

 

Peace, Larry

[JosephH]

Larry,

 

There is no disagreement about keeping "family" arguments off the net; the distinction is between BRCA posts which have to be on the net for several reasons and "family matters" which do not need to be.

[flyingpig]

Joseph,

Is wanting poeple to climb at your standards ( w/o chalk) a family argument or a family matter?

[markd]

what's up larry. how's the high lining going?

 

i was wondering if you were ever going to show up for the "conversations"

 

cheers.

 

[edit] i would second that larry is a local for life - grandfathered in, yo.

[flyingpig]

Heydude,

 

i'm sure that i have met you, i am no stranger to the rock. i amnotyourdude.

it's kind of funny that you think i am larry, but i will take that as a compliment. larry is for sure a local for life. have you ever seen him drink a guiness? he can drink a pint in like two seconds, and he is quite the slackliner.

 

thrash out w/ you gash out!!!!

[flyingpig]

markd,

i'm kind of wondering where larrys at myself, but we all know how larry feels.

[flyingpig]

the pig is a little slow today (smokin the good stuff)larry is heydude.

[JosephH]

Joseph,

Is wanting poeple to climb at your standards ( w/o chalk) a family argument or a family matter?

 

Pig,

 

It's neither really, which was why I posted it in a different thread. It wasn't about Beacon - it was about chalk. Also, it isn't about anyone needing to "climb at your standards" or "w/o chalk" but rather one of a little objective reality and common courtesy. If what you're saying is that the rock out at Beacon is such that some people actually need a quarter of a bag of chalk to get up the first pitch of the corner or YW then I simply disagree. Maybe a veritable white line up the pitch with a spill at every dip doesn't affect your climbing experience at all, but it does mine. Again, it's more about common sense and courtesy for other climbers and not about Beacon.

[flyingpig]

joe,

most beginner climbers do not have climbing sense, they lack the knowledge to be courteous. it is your job as a knowledgable climber to educate them. maybe suggesting to them not to over fill their chalk bags would be a better approach, and not telling the world how the great joseph only needs it 10% of the time. i think that is great that you don't need it.i wish my hands did not sweat so much.maybe it all depends on who taught you about climbing in the first place. if it was not about our precious rock, then rant about chalk. joseph, i think you ultimately have good intensions, but i don't trust the landmanagement folk. lets face it, poeple like climbers as much as poeple like deads heads.climbers fester. climbing is somewhat a blue collar activity, and blue collar folk don't have much power. i don't know if you have ever met bridwell. that guy does not have alot of money, but he is the epitome of climbing and has cotributed a liftime to it. what has climbing given back to him? im interested to see what these landmanagers are going to give back. i hope your methods get you far. i hope whatever you say or do won't be used against you. i truly hope your right. i hope i am wrong ( i really do ). falcon closures are a farce. i feel that these closures are one sided, otherwise they would close the trail down during nesting too. it's a validated government position. if closing the rock creates a job or another activity then thats how it's going to be.then there is the railroad, if the railroad ever closes it's game over. no fighting those poeple.

[Knottygirl]

Bri just tried a classic thread revival move and the spark ignited.

Ooops, I just realized what I did!

[flyingpig]

what did you do girly.

[JosephH]

Pig,

 

From one of my posts in the other thread:

 

Beacon Rock sits in the center of a regulatory onion that looks sort of like this: Beacon > BRSP > WSP > WDFW > Tribal Councils > Skamania County > Forest Service > Gorge Commission > Railroad - with each successive agency potentially having more power than the previous depending on the context one is looking at Beacon from. And while these are the primary agencies of record for Beacon the list doesn't include any number of agencies with relavant interests in Beacon such as the Washington Department of Archaeology and Historic Preservation (relative with regards to the East face and maintenance of park structures such as the buildings and the trail).

 

And in that regulatory mix our current BRSP rangers Erik Plunkett and John Ernster are actually Beacon climbers best friends as they have defended climbing at Beacon multiple times to multiple agencies and interest groups since their arrival. Erik is passionate about his own sports and his brother is a climber; John is an ex-alpine climber who had to stop after a bad rockfall accident severely injured and almost killed him. We're lucky to have them both as we could just as easily have rangers that don't get it and view it as a hassle, which these guys don't. They actually like that there is climbing in their park - it gives the place some added cache within the WSP system. Today's threat to Beacon isn't "land managers", it's climbers with a very different vision of what climbing should be at Beacon.

 

To be honest, I'm not sure how to react to the blue collar statement other than to say I understand you're drift and I'd say letting us do pre-opening work sessions two years in a row and opening a month early constitutes "land managers" ( Erik, John, David, and Lisa ) "giving back" in my book.

 

As for the Peregrine closures - I'm guessing you were one of the crew that was involved with turning down the partial closure offer at the Stevenson meeting on the principle that if the tourist top out, climbers should be able to top out. As I've attempted to explain several times, the original deed to the park spelled out that the trail remain open. Also, WDFW would have preferred the trail be closed as well, but even they saw it wasn't going to be worth the political capital to force the issue with the WSP given the original deeding and the fact that 600k people a year hike the trail which is the only reason Beacon is a park at all. As far as I'm concerned it's long, long past the time to get over that whole line of argument [over the principle] - WDFW was smart enough to recognize the political realities and give it up and climbers should be as well.

[flyingpig]

i was never really involved in the politics of the rock, accept for going to few public meetings that they used to have before each closure.i was young and just wanted to climb. jim & mike spent alot of time trying to get that rock open, and i think they lost hope. i don't doubt that you are a good front man for the brca. being that we have all matured and cleaned up, a few of us could fit that suit, but jh who appointed you this position and where does your passion for the rock come from? jim is getting old and is probably sick and tired of tring to fight for something that is already ours. i don't remember the rock being open a month early last year. i remember them doing early openings as far back as eight years ago, that was when steve johnson was the head ranger. i don't know who refused the partial closure, i did not know that was ever an option.

triva questions: has the rock ever had access issues before the falcon closure?

how does a climbers activity rate compared to other outdoor activities ( hiking, boating, moutainbiking)

how many licks does it take to get to the candy center of a tootsie pop?

 

joeseph, i wish you well in your fight for the rock. i hope you get what we need. i just ask you to keep negative touchy subjects seperate from the rock. alot of poeple question you, i am trying to figure out why we all have a funny feeling ?

[kevbone]

Little lash, how’s it going? Beacon has been missing you. Glad to see you have entered the arena. It’s a battle of change and we have to win. At the current state, JH showed up about 2 years ago and crowned himself king of Beacon, and he bought a drill. He has pounded in more bolts than miles we live apart. Mostly replacing anchors. But he has added some too. This is all in good faith, but I personally think its about JH and his ego. I know JH and climbed and spoken with him on this subject quite abit. And when he tries to sell you on the state park, rangers, land management, closures, laws, climbing management, and all that jargon, don’t believe it. Its really all about JH. Other wise he would not be so vocal about the work he is doing. JH is like a politician, good with words. Don’t be snowed by his words. He does not listen.

Larry, you should see the top of Flying Dutchman, at grassy ledges. He has added anchors, and fixed lines all over the place, just to get down to the anchors over the edge, it looks like a Robinson carusoe village, with fixes lines all over the place. He is making it way to accessible to everyone. This of course it my personal opinion.

[flyingpig]

kevbon, larry and i got your back. who else feels this strongly about joeseph, and why? does he really pose a threat? i would like to get some feedback on this from everybody. i have been away to long, and i care.

 

ANDREW JOSEPH LEINER, LOCAL

[billcoe]

ANDREW JOSEPH LEINER, LOCAL

 

SO, you admit that your middle name is in fact Joseph?! AND YOU DO USE CHALK! AHHAH!

 

Hmmmm, where was I heading with that?

 

Nevermind...... nothing I say ever changes anything anyway.

 

Later