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[TR] prusik peak- west ridge 7/3/2005


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Climb: prusik peak-west ridge


Date of Climb: 7/3/2005


Trip Report:

i scored an enchantments permit from wolfs for the three-day weekend. (thanks again, wolfs! thumbs_up.gif) in all my years of living in wa, i’d never been up there, so markws and i figured we’d make it a weekend and give prusik a go while we were there.


on saturday morning we parked at the snow creek trailhead, and a local buddy (thanks, ryan!) gave us a lift to the colchuck lake trailhead. we stopped for lunch at the lake, where mark caught a couple of trout in less than 10 minutes.




the breeze picked up while we were there and kept the heat of the day from baking us silly. once rested we began the final 2200-foot grind. there is very little snow left up to aasgard pass. i only remember crossing a couple of small patches high. by the time we were at the top i was wearing shell pants and my goretex jacket, as well as a hat and gloves! once over we were both surprised at how much snow there was. the first lake we came to was still frozen so we continued onward.




it was very cool to see prusik in the distance!




we ended up at inspiration lake, below the snow line and a short jaunt to prusik pass. it was cold!!! the wind was mach’ing and it was all i could do to sit in the tent with my sleeping bag and make a cup of hot chocolate through the door. but it was an amazing spot, with the lake right there and those brilliant granite cliffs behind it.




the next morning we were rudely awakened at about 6am to the sound of hooves and bleating, as a local group of mountain goats made their urine-seeking rounds. the babies were cute!




we eventually rose and prepared for an assault of prusik. what an awesomely short approach from our tent!




we made it to prusik fairly early and saw one group heading up the scramble and another getting ready. turns out the latter was headed for the south face so we didn’t have to wait for anyone. it was a beautiful day, but the wind was pretty constant … and quite cold! we were climbing on one half rope doubled over so that made for short pitches, which worked out well since there are sections that would have heinous rope drag anyway. the climb started out fun …




then got more "interesting" ...




and gradually felt more exposed as we gained the ridge.




at the pitch before the bolt we had gone up the vertical thin corner on the right. the party behind us went up left. we were wondering why that pitch seemed so much harder than it should have been! the bolted move was fun and the chimney was about as short and pleasant as a chimney might be. the summit – yay! (except for all the mosquitoes!!!)




the descent consisted of multiple raps – 5, i think. at which point we traversed back towards the start of the climb. there were several snow patches to cross, which are real fun in rock shoes, but it wasn’t too bad. the mosquitoes, on the other hand, were. thumbs_down.gif all in all, a great climb in an amazing setting, though!


on the way back to inspiration lake we saw several furry marmots.




the next morning, wayne1112 and lane walked by camp, on their way out to prusik. on our way out of the enchantments, we spied them starting their climb of the south face.




you can just make out a helmet at the base.




thanks for the wonderful weekend, markws!!! thumbs_up.gif and for carrying my pack … yellaf.gif





Gear Notes:

60m half rope

bunch of nuts

some hexes

a few cams


Approach Notes:

see above.

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Nice TR and pics. I was up there solo yesterday. Beautiful day, sunny and warm with a little breeze to keep the mosquitos away.

Passed a bunch of people in the morning on their way out and then in the afternoon a bunch of people coming up, but there was no one else up on Prusik while I was up there.

Prusik is bootie central. A handful of nuts and some nice new blue slings. A couple more trips up there and I'll have a full rack!

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i really should be institutionalized just for the pure fact that I've lived in WA my entire life, now I live in AK, and have never really climbed, hiked, or camped in the Cascades outside of Rainier.


Don't worry, you need not say anything.


I hang my head in shame!

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