AlpineK Posted June 17, 2005 Posted June 17, 2005 Down there in the fat old man grades I read in this thread that Classic Crack is 5.9 yet Angel Crack is 5.7. I find that really interesting.......... I believe the guide says the start of Angel Crack is 5.10... either that or it says bouldering start. Quote
mec Posted June 17, 2005 Posted June 17, 2005 O'Kelley's Crack in Joshua Tree is listed 5.10c, the notes in the guidebook say the start is 5.11 Quote
TimL Posted June 17, 2005 Posted June 17, 2005 y que tal espana? has podido ver las escuelas cerca de madrid? imagino que ya sabes de esta pagina de web con su mini-guia? Gracias por la informacion! España es muy buena. Pero hace calor! Hemos ido a Patones. Ese fin de semana nosotros vamos a La Cabrera y el proximo fin de semana vamos a Galayos. Echo de menos la nieve y las montañas de las Caascades. Quote
Mr._Natural Posted June 17, 2005 Posted June 17, 2005 i thought princely used to be 5.8? flake broke off. Quote
catbirdseat Posted June 17, 2005 Posted June 17, 2005 I think that Inca Road is a great climb, but it is sandbagged for 5.9, and here's why I think that. There is a vertical section near the top that requires finger jamming. There is very little for feet. Seldom do you encounter this on climbs less than 5.10. If you do, it might be one or two moves. Those that are very comfortable with finger jams will, I am sure, will disagree with me. Quote
RuMR Posted June 17, 2005 Author Posted June 17, 2005 there are entire pitches of finger jamming that are 5.8 or 5.9... Quote
Cobra_Commander Posted June 17, 2005 Posted June 17, 2005 The finger jams on Inca Roads are unbelievably good. It is a Tieton 5.9. It is hard to see how it is 5.9 when Orange Sunshine is 10b. The climb to the left of Orange Sunshine often feels as difficult as Orange Sunshine, yet is only 5.9 too. The 5.9 rating can raise some eyebrows at Royal Columns for sure. Quote
mec Posted June 17, 2005 Posted June 17, 2005 there are entire pitches of finger jamming that are 5.8 or 5.9... Dude, where are those? I need to find them. Finger jammin' Quote
selkirk Posted June 17, 2005 Posted June 17, 2005 there are entire pitches of finger jamming that are 5.8 or 5.9... Dude, where are those? I need to find them. Finger jammin' The Vertical World in Ballard has a nice finger crack Quote
mec Posted June 17, 2005 Posted June 17, 2005 there are entire pitches of finger jamming that are 5.8 or 5.9... Dude, where are those? I need to find them. Finger jammin' The Vertical World in Ballard has a nice finger crack I'm sure that there are huge jugs right next to it as well Quote
MCash Posted June 17, 2005 Posted June 17, 2005 I remember some feet and wide stemming at the top of Inca Roads. If you didn't use those, the vertical fingers section might seem harder than 5.9. Quote
catbirdseat Posted June 17, 2005 Posted June 17, 2005 I can't wait to have another go at Inca Roads. According to my belayer, there are some face holds there that I completely ignored. Quote
RuMR Posted June 17, 2005 Author Posted June 17, 2005 there are entire pitches of finger jamming that are 5.8 or 5.9... Dude, where are those? I need to find them. Finger jammin' go to yosemite...or squamish.... Quote
catbirdseat Posted June 17, 2005 Posted June 17, 2005 I remember some feet and wide stemming at the top of Inca Roads. If you didn't use those, the vertical fingers section might seem harder than 5.9. This from the Stem Master himself. Quote
catbirdseat Posted June 17, 2005 Posted June 17, 2005 Yes, but not vertical like Inca Roads. Looks tasty though. Quote
selkirk Posted June 17, 2005 Posted June 17, 2005 Stemming always seems to be the solution when the route is rated easier than it seems. Have you taken a shot at Zebra-Zion yet? Mixed thin fingers, hands, fists, stemming, liebacking mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm droooling mmmmmmmmmmm Quote
Drederek Posted June 18, 2005 Posted June 18, 2005 If you must know how the last bit of Inca Road is done at 5.9 pm me. I'll not be responsible for ruining someones onsight of it. Quote
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