OlegV Posted June 11, 2005 Share Posted June 11, 2005 I like climbing steep ice. Went to REI to try Koflach Arctic Expedition. Felt like wearing russian style military boots. Wobly. I guess, I'm spoiled by my La Sportiva K4. Turns your feet inti hamburger on an approach but climbs sweet! Here is what I need from my double boots. 1) Easy hiker. 2) Relatively light. 3) Good ice and mixed climber. 4) Warm enough for extreme altitudes. 5) Reasonably priced. I tried Arctic Exp. - didn't like them. Scarpa Inverno? Vasque Ice 9000? La Sportiva Lhotse GTX? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Divot Posted June 11, 2005 Share Posted June 11, 2005 Id go with the Verticals, same shell as the Exp, but not the same liner. Still really nice boots. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Divot Posted June 11, 2005 Share Posted June 11, 2005 And, they are in my opinion decent and light enough for tough alpine routes, with mixed and steep ice, while freezing. You also have the option of using the aveolite liners which take off 3/4 of a pound....! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jordop Posted June 11, 2005 Share Posted June 11, 2005 If you have narrowish feet the Lhotse is one of the nicest fitting boots I have EVER worn period Don't fuck around with plastics unless you are going to Alaska. No need Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kraken Posted June 11, 2005 Share Posted June 11, 2005 hmm...i'm in Alaska... I've used my Salomon leathers for ice climbing and Chugach mountaineering and have never had a problem. I'm doing Denali in 2006 though via the West Rib and intend to buy plastics for this upcoming season. My theory is...at 14,000 feet, there are two things that you need to be comfortable...your boots, and your sleeping bag. I've heard the Lhotses are just insane though. I'm going to go to AMH and check them out soon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Frieh Posted June 11, 2005 Share Posted June 11, 2005 If the shoe fits... The vertical is a weird boot... though it is plastic the plastic they use is designed to flex... making them more comfortable to walk in. That is great and all until you actually use them to climb ice (the other reason to buy plastic boots)... your calfs will scream for mercy. Koflach specifically makes those boots for glacial plodding... if that is what you see your self pursuing then great... however if you hope to get into/continue hard ice, etc then you might want to look at some other boots. Two boots that fit my feet: Lowa Civetta is a solid preformer, fairly light and well priced. Scarpa Alpha is an awesome boot also. When my civettas wear out I am replacing them with a pair of alphas... All comes down to fit... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ridgeline Posted June 12, 2005 Share Posted June 12, 2005 (edited) He is looking for a boot warm enough for extreme altitudes and the Alpha is reccomended? Look elsewhere. I bought into the hype of this boot only to be disappointed. It's probably a great boot if you're foot fits it, like the previous post said. mine did not and it was near impossible to get a secure ankle tie-in. Really bothersome. I here great tings about the Nuptse but at $515 violates your 5th criteria. Edited June 12, 2005 by ridgeline Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OlegV Posted June 13, 2005 Author Share Posted June 13, 2005 Agree, La Sportiva Nupse is an ultimate boot! Designed for technical climbing at high altitudes. It looks just like LS K4. It probably performs just as beautifully. $0.5K bites! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomtom Posted June 13, 2005 Share Posted June 13, 2005 The vertical is a weird boot... though it is plastic the plastic they use is designed to flex... making them more comfortable to walk in. That is great and all until you actually use them to climb ice (the other reason to buy plastic boots)... your calfs will scream for mercy. It's not the boot. I have Verticals and they ice climb just fine. If you have whimpy calves, try ice climbing in Garmont Mega-Rides. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Divot Posted June 13, 2005 Share Posted June 13, 2005 Good call TT, I didnt wanna say it, but you did. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark_Husbands Posted June 13, 2005 Share Posted June 13, 2005 anyway, i thought the "degre" was the soft rainier rental boot, and the vertical was the stiffer shelled model with cooler colors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted June 13, 2005 Share Posted June 13, 2005 1) Easy hiker. 2) Relatively light. 3) Good ice and mixed climber. 4) Warm enough for extreme altitudes. 5) Reasonably priced. I would contend that there is no boot that meets all these criteria. The "warm enough for extreme altitudes" criteria especially negates almost all the common production double boots on the market. But you should probably define what is extreme altitude for you, as most of the boots you are looking at are not things you would take to 8000m. I had the production Koflach Arctis Exped in Alaska and it performed fine the first year I owned them, then went in the shitter when the liner "wore out" after the second season. If you leave that out of the equation then any double boot that fits well will be your best option (Asolo's suck for walking, however). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OlegV Posted June 14, 2005 Author Share Posted June 14, 2005 I'm talking about a 4-season boot, which works on technical routes beyond Cascades, but not quite for Himalaya yet. Meaning: 1) Easy hiker. 2) Good ice and mixed climber. 4) Warm enough for multiday winter climbs. 5) Reasonably priced. Wouldn't be nice to have a single boot for all occasions? Plus two sets of liners - warm and extra-warm, and an overboot. Just want to save few bucks. Most of plastic boots are unreasonably overpriced. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ridgeline Posted June 14, 2005 Share Posted June 14, 2005 Well, most everything in this industry is overpriced Consider just buying some cheap used boot shells (many rental places sell off inventory at end of season) and just replace the liners. cheapsnowboards.com i think has intuitions for something like $30. That should be a fairly cheap set-up for you. i'm in a similar boat as you and have just come to the conclusion that the perfect plasctic boot (i.e. meets all of your criteria) probably doesn't exist. I've had Expe and thought the same as you about them. Scarpha's didn't fit well. Next try is probably the inverno. good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Frieh Posted June 14, 2005 Share Posted June 14, 2005 anyway, i thought the "degre" was the soft rainier rental boot, and the vertical was the stiffer shelled model with cooler colors. Oops... that is what I meant to say... can't keep my models straight The vertical is a fine boot. And my calves are fine... thanks for asking. They get weekly abuse at dry tool night...you should come out some time... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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