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Posted

Please argue to no ends on this subject.

My ethics: 1st don't ask, just tell them what you're about to do and how you're going to do it. Be very nice about it, but do it regardless.

 

Only do this if it's isn't a danger to them, however (loose rocks or ice above).

 

This is the only way to go. Otherwise your on their ass the entire time and making crowded belays which suck for both parties. If you are indeed fast enough to pass them, then their wait time should be minimal and definately step up the pace for the next two pitches to make sure you get well ahead.

 

Don't ask, b/c that saves you the awkwardness when they say no you can't pass and you go ahead and do it anyway.

 

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Posted (edited)

yeah layton, that's cool and all, but it'll be real funny when i tie your ass down 15 feet into the next pitch and make you cry for your mommy...how's that for an "awkward moment"?

 

man, cc.com is full of the hard boyz today rolleyes.gif

Edited by RuMR
Posted

oh, i'm not talking about shorter easier routes. like dark shadows in redrock for instance. you'd have to be a total a-hole to pass someone on that.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

i always ask because i don't want be viewed as a-hole, so i make sure i am polite and if they choose to be the a-hole so be it i'll just wait. it's not my personal climbing gym for me to push people out of the way while i'm climbing. if i'm standing on their foot enough eventually they'll let me pass. but if you're the type of person that doesn't care about acting like an a-hole that's great for you then. however, i believe in preserving a fun atmosphere on the wall. courtesy goes a long way. i would encourage the use of courtesy since we are all a community while on the wall.

Posted

sparky, after enough times of the other party saying no, you'll change your mind. if you read carefully, i said be polite about it, just don't make it an option for them.

Posted

I was climbing East Wilman Spire one time with the wife and we were moving pretty slow since it was her very first alpine outing. There was someone soloing the route behind us.

 

Well, I reached the top and set up a belay to bring up my wife who was already somewhat rattled by the exposure. I couldn't see her but to reassure her I kept a tight belay. All of a sudden I felt a LOT of weight on the rope. Thinking she had fallen and not been able to get back on the rock I started reefing on the rope to haul her up. I heard her screaming "stop pulling the rope" so I just sat there trying to figure out what was going on.

 

Turns out the person soloing asked to pass and my wife said "sure, go ahead." The soloist apparently got sketched out and clipped directly into our rope--above my wife--and used it as a handline to attain the summit, hence the dead weight on the rope.

 

She made up for this dumbass bullshit by letting us tie our ropes together for the rap off.

 

Did I mention this woman said she was a guide for AIA?

 

I will think twice before letting anyone pass me ever again.

Posted
Turns out the person soloing asked to pass and my wife said "sure, go ahead." The soloist apparently got sketched out and clipped directly into our rope--above my wife--and used it as a handline to attain the summit,

hellno3d.gif wow; that is f'ed up! thumbs_down.gifthumbs_down.gif

Posted

Years ago I was doing one of my first leads on Diedre and was screwing around trying to get a piece of gear placed. I was getting a little gripped being a ways above my last piece and not being able to find the right size for the next placement when I heard some noise behind. I looked back and saw someone coming up from below. I thought it was a little odd/rude that someone would just climb right through me while I was midpitch, but then I noticed that the person was soloing. I looked back, looked over at the blank face to my right, and the guy said, "Mind if I play through?" I chuckled and said go ahead then asked what he wanted me to do to get out of his way. He said to stay where I was then danced out onto the friction slab and motored on up and out of sight. I looked at the piece of gear I was struggling to make fit, reracked it, and took off up the crack thinking, "What the hell! If he can solo it, I don't need this piece." I was impressed and climbed much faster after that and with way more confidence. I don't think I've been passed since.

 

I don't think his question though was really a question so much as a statement. He was going to "play through" and asking just gave him a sense of how far away from me he should scamper as he passed. His friendly attitude made the whole experience better for everyone.

Posted

I have passed and been passed. I have sat at a belay for 3 hours before and waited every belay for 6-7 pitches whilst other dily-dalied around. I agree with layton on this one.

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