selkirk Posted May 20, 2005 Share Posted May 20, 2005 Just wondering if anyone has any suggestions on prepping for the Pioneer Route on Monkeyface? The freeclimbing part shouldn't be a problem. I'm just wondering what i'll need for the bold ladder? ?Gear? Leader 2 aiders 2 Daisys a few quick draws for the follower 2 ascenders? can I get away with old school Gibbs, or will something a little newer work better? How about a Gibbs ascender and a prusik? Is it worth trying to practice on a bolt ladder somewhere, or is thrutching, cursing, and general gaperdom expected on the aid section? (as I have zero aid experience and neither will the 2nd). Also, trail 2 ropes on that section (lead rope plus a second line not clipped through the bolts for jugging) or just the lead line? Thanks All Hopefully I won't make too big a fool of myself. Either that or at least there will be amusing pictures Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Frieh Posted May 20, 2005 Share Posted May 20, 2005 Most pull on the draws and avoid aiders all together. With that said this would be a good opportunity to practice using aiders. A few draws is all you need. Don't make the second (or third) jug unless they have ample jug experience. It is free hanging and traverses which can make for some gaping unless you have experience with this kind of jugging. Direct aid following is much much faster in this situation. You will need 2 ropes to get off the monkey. Trail a second and just pull it up while your second direct aid follows the bolts. Belay them as they come up. PS: fifi hook is your friend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Frieh Posted May 20, 2005 Share Posted May 20, 2005 And do the variation from the other side. Much better. Start early to avoid getting stuck behind someone who jugs the bolt ladder. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
b-rock Posted May 20, 2005 Share Posted May 20, 2005 I had never aided anything first time I climbed it. Two aiders, one diasy, must have looked kinda funny. Anyways it's nothing to worry about, you'll figure it out. Nolses right, second aiding will save a ton of time, and the West Face Variation (#13a in Watts book, not grade) is saweeeeet! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimL Posted May 20, 2005 Share Posted May 20, 2005 The West Side variation to the Monkey Face is really nice and goes at 5.8, maybe 2 pitches until it meets up witht he regular route. If you want to aid, it is not a bad route to start, but the jugging does suck, but I really don't know that much jugging that is super good. Not many aid oitches are straight up and down so I guess you have to learn some place. It is actually much easier to pull on draws as you do not have to carry all of the aid gear with you. But that depends on your intentions. The last pitch you can go straight up on a bolt ladder or do a really nice 5.7/5.8 bolted traversing pitch that is super airy and really fun. With both variations it is a great route! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
texplorer Posted May 20, 2005 Share Posted May 20, 2005 You can get off with one rope if you stop in the monkey mouth or at the bottom of the aid section. However, the double rope rappel off top is one of the best raps ever looking down on Just Do It. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Figger_Eight Posted May 20, 2005 Share Posted May 20, 2005 The double rope rap is certainly worth doing Having the second person aid (especially if they're not very experienced with jugging) is a little faster, but they'll miss the cool swing after they come off the ledge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
selkirk Posted May 20, 2005 Author Share Posted May 20, 2005 hmmm, is it worth warning them about the swing? Or is there a good spot above you can get a picture of their face from as they drop into space? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
corvallisclimb Posted May 20, 2005 Share Posted May 20, 2005 PS: fifi hook is your friend. i use one sport climbing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Figger_Eight Posted May 20, 2005 Share Posted May 20, 2005 You can tie a leash to one of the bolt anchors in the mouth, lean way out and shoot straight down If the second is gonna jug, make sure they have a hold of their end of the rope while you climb - it will be hanging about 10-15 feet out from the ledge if it's freehanging (hence the swing once they cut loose from the anchor). You won't need to warn them about it...they'll see it coming. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
selkirk Posted May 20, 2005 Author Share Posted May 20, 2005 Any tricks for cleaning the draws, if the second jugs on a seperate rope? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snoboy Posted May 20, 2005 Share Posted May 20, 2005 If they gonna jug, then have them jug the lead rope. Saves the swing, saves them trying to grab the draws form 15' away. That's how it's usually done on an aid route. Otherwise, I add another vote in favour of the W Side variation. I would have the 2nd aid the bolts on belay from above. If you give them tension as they do it, the whole thing will be over before you have time to think about the next lead. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Figger_Eight Posted May 20, 2005 Share Posted May 20, 2005 Oh yeah...I was thinking about a group of 3. Duh. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Frieh Posted May 23, 2005 Share Posted May 23, 2005 I saw quite the clusterfuck on monkey this past weekend (specifically sunday)... how did it go? Did the masses of vacationing canadians log jam the aid pitch? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ken4ord Posted May 23, 2005 Share Posted May 23, 2005 Any tricks for cleaning the draws, if the second jugs on a seperate rope? If you want them to aid on a seperate line then make sure to clip that second line in critical spots so they won't have to swing inorder to get in to the wall. I am assuming you have a newbie and you want to belay them up is your reason for doing this? It is easier to belay them with the second rope though. Jugging will be made easier for you partner if yo back clean every other bolt. The bolts are super close together, that is why I always reccomend leaving the aid gear at home and just french freeing it. Another vote for the West Side intro pitches, it turn it into a legit route, imo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
selkirk Posted May 23, 2005 Author Share Posted May 23, 2005 The follower will probably have a little less experience than me (both of us leading for a little over a year, but i've been doing quite a bit more). More than confident on the free stuff, but neither of us have french freed, or aid climbed so i'm trying to scope out what i'll need to do to get through the bolt ladder. Thanks for all the info everyone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary_Yngve Posted May 23, 2005 Share Posted May 23, 2005 ...but neither of us have french freed... Liar. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
selkirk Posted May 23, 2005 Author Share Posted May 23, 2005 ok, can't speak for the second.... and i've hung on gear, but never pulled Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary_Yngve Posted May 23, 2005 Share Posted May 23, 2005 And I didn't inhale. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
selkirk Posted May 23, 2005 Author Share Posted May 23, 2005 that's funny neither did I.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
selkirk Posted May 27, 2005 Author Share Posted May 27, 2005 So last question... How long for the Pioneer Route? (5 pitches, 1 scramble, 1 trad, 1 aid, 1 bolt, 1 scramble) For 2 people looks like about 4 or 5 hours to me? and for 3, add an hour? And the west side variation? More technical, so add another 1/2 hour? Heading down to smith tomorrow so if anyone see's a group gaping on the monkey on monday, might be us Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cobra_Commander Posted May 27, 2005 Share Posted May 27, 2005 on memorial day weekend one thing is for sure: you will be in good company Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ken4ord Posted May 27, 2005 Share Posted May 27, 2005 Well if you have only been leading a year, maybe bring aiders is the way to go. It will be your call, depend on your comfort level hanging on bolts. For that route I kept a draw on my harness so whenenver I wanted to rest just clip into a bolt or draw that I placed. If you bring the aid gear, add a fifi hook to your list, it makes life lot easier. As for pitches I recall 2 free, 1 aid/bolt ladder, 1 free (the glory pitch) Oh next time inhale, fewl!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MATT_B Posted May 27, 2005 Share Posted May 27, 2005 I would suggest a very early start. More often than not the route is a traffic jam. It is hard to say how long it will take you. Probably longer than you think. Especially if you have not done any aid. With an early start you will have plenty of time if you get behind schedule. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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