Detailed how to ice climb instructions

[layton]

I found this on an old floppy disk. the diagrams are missing. if for some horrible reason i were to write this again, i'm pretty sure i'd know what i was talking about this time around b/c some muslces groups are left out, including trunk and pelvic stabilizers.

 

 

This exercise analysis will focus on the skill of upward progression in the activity of ice climbing. The skill has been divided into four primary phases; phase one and two independent of one another and phase three and four occurring simultaneously as the climber stands up. Phase one is the upper body lifting the ice tool and striking it into the ice. Phase two consists of the lower body kicking each foot into the ice. Phase three and four is the entire body pulling up with the upper body and standing up with the lower body. The exercise will be analyzed in this sequence. Following the analysis are sections discussing conditioning, instruction, and injuries of ice climbing, respectively.

 

Phase I : Lifting and Striking

In this stage, the climber lifts an ice tool above and posterior to the head, and swings the tool, striking the ice as high as possible overhead. This is repeated with the opposite side. Following is a description of the actions occurring during the placement of one ice tool. Movements are the same on both sides of the body.

Gripping the Ice Tools

Hand and Thumb Flexion:

First, the ice tools are grasped in both hands. This requires flexion at many of the joints of the hand. Flexion at the metacarpophalangeal joint is provided by the flexor digitorum superficialis, flexor digitorum profundus, and flexor digiti minimi. The flexor digitorum superficialis and flexor digitorum profundus flex the proximal interphalangeal joint, while only the profundus flexes the distal interphalangeal joint.

The thumb flexors are also essential for gripping the shaft of the tool. The flexor pollicis longus is active at the carpometacarpal, metacarpophalangeal, and interphalangeal joints. The flexor pollicis brevis flexes both the carpometacarpal and metacarpophalangeal joints.

The flexors of the hand and thumb contract isometrically throughout all of the four phases presented. Greatest strength is needed during phase I, when the ice tool is actually being manipulated. Much endurance is required of these muscles.

Inspection of Overhead Ice

Cervical and Head Joints:

Before swinging an ice tool into the ice above, the climber must visually inspect the target area. This requires cervical extension by the splenius capitis and splenius cervicus. Head extension, also necessary, is provided by the splenius capitis. The contractions are concentric, and require endurance due to repetition and the weight of the helmet.

Lifting the Ice Tool

Shoulder Joint:

After a target is selected, the ice tool must be lifted into an overhead position in preparation for striking the ice. Shoulder joint flexion occurs through contraction of the anterior deltoid and, to 90 degrees, the clavicular aspect of the pectoralis major. Assistors are the biceps brachii, supraspinatus, and coracobrachialis. As flexion exceeds 90 degrees, some lateral rotation occurs. The posterior deltoid, infraspinatus, and teres minor are prime movers for this action. These concentric contractions are repeated numerous times over the length of a climb and require endurance and stability so that the movements can be performed accurately.

Shoulder Girdle:

Associated with shoulder joint flexion are protraction, elevation, and upward rotation of the shoulder girdle. Also, there is minor clavicular rotation to the posterior. The serratus anterior and pectoralis minor protract the shoulder girdle. The upper and lower trapezius, as well as the serratus anterior, upwardly rotate the shoulder girdle. Elevation of the shoulder girdle is provided by the upper trapezius and levator scapula, and assisted by the rhomboid. These concentric contractions

Elbow Joint:

Elbow flexion occurs simultaneously to shoulder flexion. Prime movers include the biceps brachii, brachialis and brachioradialis. The pronator teres assists the movement. The point at which elbow flexion is limited by the climber may vary with ice surface hardness, weight of particular tool, and strength and skill of the climber. The concentric contraction of the elbow flexors is limited by eccentric contraction of the triceps brachii, an elbow extender, assisted by the anconeus. The long head of the triceps is particularly active, with shoulder flexion optimizing the length/tension relationship.

Trunk and Pelvis:

During shoulder and elbow flexion, there is subtle trunk extension and minor rotation towards the side currently swinging the tool. Some posterior pelvic tilt may occur due to the trunk extension, though this is largely stabilized by the rectus abdominus and internal and external obliques. Trunk extension is accomplished by concentric contraction of the spinalis, longissimus, and iliocostalis of the erector spinae group, as well as the interspinale, intertransversarii, and transversospinalis of the deep posterior spinal group. The same side internal obliques, the opposite side external obliques, and the transversospinalis work to rotate the trunk.

Wrist Joint:

Radial deviation at the wrist joint is concurrent with shoulder and elbow flexion. The movement is largely a result of gravity acting on the raised tool, however it is limited by eccentric contraction of the flexor carpi ulnaris and extensor carpi ulnaris. The flexor carpi radialis, palmaris longus, extensor carpi radialis longus, and extensor carpi radialis brevis are involved in stabilizing the tool throughout phase I.

Striking with the Ice Tool

Elbow Joint:

The triceps brachii provides the force necessary to drive the tool forward and penetrate the ice. Elbow extension is the most prominent movement of the forward swing. Strength and endurance is necessary, as hard ice is difficult to penetrate, and the movement must be repeated many times.

 

Shoulder Joint:

The shoulder joint flexors continue to contract, now isometrically, in order to maintain the overhead position of the tool.

Wrist Joint:

Just before the pick of the ice tool contacts the ice, toward the end of elbow extension, the flexor carpi ulnaris and extensor carpi ulnaris contract to cause ulnar deviation. This is necessary due to the angle at which the pick is designed to stick into the ice.

Head and Cervical Joints

Between swings of the tool, the extended head is usually moved back to a neutral position. Head flexion is accomplished by the longus capitis and sternocleidomastoid. The same muscles as well as the longus cervicis and longus colli contract concentrically to provide cervical flexion.

Trunk and Pelvis:

As elbow extension occurs, the trunk is returned to a neutral position through flexion of the abdominal group. Between the swinging of tools, there is isometric co-contraction of the trunk flexors and extensors in order to stabilize and maintain balance.

Other Body Movements

Throughout phase I, the knees and hips are extended. The ankles are dorsiflexed. Details on lower body actions will be discussed in both phase II and IV.

 

Phase II: Kicking

In this stage, the climber will kick both right and left legs into the ice as high as possible while still maintaining balance. What occurs in the thigh, pelvis, leg, ankle, foot, toes, and torso will be described below. The motions are describing a series of events that happen in one leg. After the sequence is completed, the opposite leg completes the exact same movements.

Hip Flexion

The femur is flexed at the hip in a concentric contraction of the hip flexors from the closed packed extended position (fig 2.1) and then eccentrically controlled and slowed by the hip extensors at the very end of the movement. The prime movers of the hip flexors consist of the following muscles: iliopsoas, rectis femoris, and the pectinius. The following muscles assist hip extension: the sartorius, and the tensor fascia latae. The antagonistic hip extensors include the semimembranosus, semitendinosus, biceps femoris.

The iliopsoas is the strongest hip flexor and is most active in the midrange of the hip flexion. The rectis femoris helps to eccentrically slow the knee flexion that naturally occurs during hip flexion. The knee flexion (described later) enhances the strength of the contraction by keeping the hip flexors in an optimal length-tension relationship, since the iliopsoas and rectis femoris are 2-joint muscles, spanning the hip and knee. The hip flexors are shortened at the hip in flexion, and stretched at the knee in knee flexion.

The abdominals, the trunk flexors, also facilitate hip extension in the first 45 degrees of hip flexion (Hamill, & Knutzen, 1995). The trunk flexors include the following muscles: rectus abdominus, external oblique, and the internal oblique. The transverse abdominus, which compresses the abdomen, is also included in the trunk flexor group. This movement of flexion is a slow powerful movement, necessary to lift the heavy limb, and the boot and clothing in a controlled contraction.

Hip Abduction

While the femur is flexing at the hip, it also slightly abducts at the hip joint from its original adducted position. The hip abductors concentrically contract to move the legs at a slight spread out stance, necessary for balance (fig 2.1). The hip adductors eccentrically slow the movement while helping to control this slight movement, along with the pubofemoral ligament, which helps to resist the movement. The prime movers for hip abduction include the gluteus medius, and the gluteus minimus. These muscles are assisted by the sartorius, and the tensor fascia latae. The antagonistic hip adductors include the pectinius, gracilis, adductor longus, adductor brevis, and the adductor magnus.

The main abductor is the gluteus medius, contributing the most force to the movement. The strength of the hip abductors decreases by more than half at 25 degree of abduction, but this is compensated by an increase in strength from the added hip flexion (Hamill, & Knutzen, 1995). Even though only one limb has abducted at this point, the hip joint will displace the same number of degrees at both left and right joints. The hip abduction is slow and controlled, but not necessarily a powerful movement, although a certain amount of power is needed to move the weight of the heavy leg, boot, and clothing.

Internal Hip Rotation

While the femur is flexing and abducting at the hip a slight amount of internal rotation from its fundamental starting position is also occurring. These three movements put the thigh in very stable position since there is now maximum congruence of the femoral head. This concentric movement is slowed and controlled by the external rotators of the hip. The iliofemoral ligament helps in resisting the internal rotation and is also helping to support the body’s weight.

The prime movers in the group that internally rotates the femur at the hip are the gluteus minimus and the gluteus medius. The tensor fascia latae, gracilis, adductor longus, semimembranosus, and the semitendinosus assist these muscles in the rotation. The antagonist external rotators are the gluteus maximus, and the six deep rotators, assisted by the sartorius. This slight movement is rather weak and only slight exertion is required from all the included muscle groups.

Movements of the Pelvic Girdle

Pelvic girdle movement occurs with any movement at the hip and trunk. In this case, the flexion of the femur at the hip causes some posterior tilt of the pelvis. The flexion will also cause left and right pelvic tilt from left and right hip flexion respectively. Some rotation occurs at the pelvis due to the leg flexion of the opposite leg. Left hip flexion will cause right pelvic rotation and right hip flexion will cause left pelvic rotation.

These movements will only be slight because the hip is stabilized from movement of certain muscle groups. The hip flexors, the iliopsoas and rectis femoris, stabilize the pelvis to prevent excessive posterior tilt. The hip abductors, mainly the gluteus medius, and the trunk lateral benders on the supported side and the adductors on the now unsupported side work simultaneously to stabile the pelvis from laterally tilting. The quadratus lumborum, external oblique, and internal oblique are the prime movers for lateral bending of the trunk at the hip. The hamstrings and abdominals are also contracting to stabilize against posterior pelvic tilt. Finally the external rotators help to stabilize the pelvis by exerting much control over the pelvis and sacrum.

Knee Stabilization and Movements

While the femur is flexing, abducting, and internally rotating, the leg is flexing and slightly externally rotating at the knee joint (fig 2.1). This movement is occurring from a stable, closed packed position, to a less stable extended position in a concentric contraction of the knee flexors controlled and slowed by an eccentric contraction of the antagonist knee extenders and internal rotators. Once fully flexed, the leg then extends quickly and powerfully at the knee in a concentric contraction of the knee extenders until the movement is stopped when the foot slams into the ice (fig 2.2). The knee flexors eccentrically contract to help control the aim of the foot into the ice. The knee flexors do not help to terminate the movement because the impact force of the boot hitting the ice stops the motion necessary to penetrate the hard ice.

The prime movers of knee flexion are the semimembranosus, semitendinosus, and the biceps femoris. These muscles are assisted by the plantaris, gastrocnemius, and sartorius. The popliteal muscle, although an internal rotator, initiates knee flexion by unlocking the knee from its stable closed packed extended position. The prime movers for knee extension are the rectus femoris, vastus lateralis, vastus medius, and the vastus intermedius. The biceps femoris is also the prime mover of external rotation of the leg at the knee. The external rotation is eccentrically slowed by the antagonist internal rotators: the semitendinosus, semimembranosus, popliteal, and assisted by the gracilis and sartorius.

Structures inside and outside the knee capsule help to stabilize and control movements. The meniscus inside the knee capsule stabilizes and absorbs shock when the leg makes contact with the ice. It also limits motion between the tibia and femur. During flexion of the leg at the knee the meniscus moves posteriorly, and at the end of the movement it fills the posterior portion of the knee joint to act as a space-filling buffer. The reverse process happens during the knee extension.

The medial collateral ligament supports the knee and offer resistance to the external rotation and any valgus (medial) forces. The lateral collateral ligament offers resistance to any varus (lateral) forces. The anterior cruciate ligament provides the primary resistance for the anterior movement of the tibia relative to the femur during the knee flexion. The posterior cruciate ligament provides the primary resistance to the posterior movement of the tibia at the femur during the knee extension. A tightening of the posteromedial and posterolateral capsules assists the collateral ligament at full extension. Both cruciate ligaments stabilize, limit rotation, and cause the femoral condyles to slide over the tibia in the knee flexion.

During the knee extension and flexion the five facets of the patella make contact with the femur. During the knee flexion, the femur rolls on the tibia, and then rotates and translates while the tibia internally rotates on the femur. The patella then moves down and enters the intercondyler notch of the femur, and then it moves laterally over the medial condyle. During the knee extension, the reverse movements of the patella, tibia, and femur occur and return to resting position.

The muscles also help to support, stabilize the joint, as well as providing strength to the movements. The semimembranosus helps prevent anterior displacement of the tibia and pulls the meniscus posteriorly. The semitendinosus helps to support the knee, and the biceps femoris offers lateral stability of the knee. The popliteal supports the posterior cruciate ligament during the deepest part of the knee flexion and draws it more posteriorly. The vastus lateralis is the strongest muscle in the knee extension, contributing a majority of the force in movement.

The knee extensors contribute somewhat to the stability of the patella during knee extension. The extensors also pull the meniscus forwards via the meniscopatellar ligament. The extensors reduce strain on the medial collateral ligament and work with the posterior cruciate ligament to prevent posterior displacement of the tibia.

Finally, the extensors need to produce a fast, powerful contraction, to propel the leg and foot into the ice at a velocity and force great enough for the crampons (foot spikes) to penetrate the ice. The rectis femoris, the only 2-joint knee extensor, is not in an optimal length-tension relationship for the extension movement, since shortened over the hip thus limiting the extension. The semimembranosus, semitendinosus, and biceps femoris are all 2-joint knee flexors. These knee flexors are in an optimal length-tension relationship since they are being lengthened over the hip during hip flexion. The hip abductors, adductors, extensors, flexors, and rotators are all isometrically co-contracting during the leg swing, to stabilize the thigh in space.

Foot Movements

When the unsupported foot is in the kicking phase, the dorsiflexors and plantarflexors are both isometrically co-contracting concentrically and eccentrically respectively to stabilize the foot in space at the ankle, or talocrural joint (fig 2.1). The antagonist prime mover for dorsiflexion is the tibialis anterior, assisted by the extensor hallicus longus, and the extensor digitorum longus. The prime movers for plantar flexion are the gastrocnemius, and the soleus, assisted by the plantaris, tibialis posterior, flexor hallicus longus, flexor digitorum longus, peroneus longus, peroneus brevis, and the peroneus tertius.

The dorsiflexors are working the hardest since both gravity and the heavy boot are pulling the foot down. The toes are in the slightly flexed fundamental position. The stiff boot acts as a brace to limit movement of the toes and foot.

Trunk Movements

The abdominals and erector spinae muscles are isometrically co-contracting concentrically and eccentrically respectively to maintain trunk posture and stabilize the spine during the kicking phase (fig 2.1 & 2.2). The antagonist erector spinae muscles group includes the spinalis, longissimus, and the iliocostalis. The abdominals are contracting also from the hip extension, while the erector spinae are contracting to prevent the trunk flexion that would occur.

 

Phase III and Phase IV: Pull Up and Stand Up

 

The pull up phase and the stand up phase constitute the final two phases in the ice climbing progression. These two phases occur simultaneously as the climber stands up using both his upper and lower extremities. Once these two phases are completed the climber will return to phase one and repeat the cycle until he has reached his destination. The movements that occur at the shoulder girdle, shoulder, elbow, wrist, and fingers in phase three will be discussed first. Movements of the pelvic girdle, hip, knee, ankle and toes that occur within phase four will follow the discussion of the phase three movements.

 

MOVEMENTS OF THE UPPER EXTREMITY:

Movements of the Shoulder Girdle

Movement of the scapula is a combination of movements at the articulations of the shoulder girdle, which include the sternoclavicular, acromioclavicular, and scapulothoracic joints. It is possible to create slight movement at each one of the joints, however movement is generated at all three as the arm moves. This is termed scapulohumeral rhythm (Hamill & Knutzen, 1995). During the pull up phase, the sternoclavicular joint glides up while the acromioclavicular joint glides down. The combined movement of the scapula includes retraction, downward rotation, and depression occurring as the arm extends at the shoulder joint, which will be discussed next. The prime movers of retraction include the middle trapezius and rhomboids, which concentrically contract during this motion. The prime movers of downward rotation are the levator scapula, rhomboids, and pectoralis minor, which also concentrically contract. Finally, the muscles primarily active during depression are the lower trapezius, pectoralis minor, and the subclavius; again they are concentrically contracting during the pull down phase.

 

 

Shoulder Extension

 

Extension of the arm at the shoulder joint occurs in conjunction with the movements of the shoulder girdle during the pull up phase of the iceclimbing progression. The prime movers of shoulder extension include the posterior deltoid, pectoralis major (sternal), latissimus dorsi, and the teres major. Concentric contractions of the shoulder extensors move the arm down towards the midline of the frontal plane.

Extension of the arm at the shoulder joint ends when the legs have fully extended (discussed later), leaving the arms slightly horizontally abducted and flexed at an angle of

0-10 degrees.

Elbow Flexion

Shoulder extension requires the simultaneous flexion of the forearm at the radiohumeral and humeroulnar joints of the elbow during the pull up phase. The prime movers for elbow flexion are the biceps brachii, brachialis and brachioradialis. Concentric contraction of these muscles brings the forearm into flexion while the arm is extending at the shoulder joint. The movements at the shoulder and elbow joints are slow and controlled motions as the body is lifted up with the help of the lower extremities as well.

The inferior radioulnar joint, located at the distal end of the forearm, is in a semiprone position throughout the entire ice climbing activity. This is due to the hand grip required for holding the ice tool. The pronator teres and pronator quadratus are isometrically contracted to hold the forearm in the semiprone position.

Movement at the Radiocarpal Joint

During the pull up phase, the wrist begins in an ulnarly deviated position due to flexion at the shoulder joint, extension at the elbow joint, and also the hand grip on the ice tool. From this position, the wrist moves in the direction of radial deviation, ending in a less ulnarly deviated position than before, but not reaching a position of radial deviation. The ulnar deviators eccentrically contract slowly in a controlled manner to avoid dislodging the ice tool from the ice. The movement at the wrist occurs primarily as a result of movement at the forearm.

Flexion and Opposition of the Fingers and Thumb

The hand grip of the upward progression that is described extensively during phase one occurs throughout the entire exercise. However, it will be mentioned briefly in the content of this phase as well. The thumb is isometrically contracted by the opponens pollicis in a position of opposition at the carpometacarpal joint, which involves a combination of flexion, abduction, and rotation. The fingers and thumb are isometrically contracted in a flexed position by the flexors at both the metacarpophalangeal and proximal interphalangeal joints. The fingers are also in a position of adduction, created by an isometric contraction of the palmar interossei. Lastly, the fingers are isometrically flexed by the flexor digitorum profudus at the distal interphalangeal joints.

 

MOVEMENTS OF THE LOWER EXTREMITY:

Movements of the Pelvic Girdle

Similar to the shoulder girdle, the pelvis must be oriented in order to allow the hip joint to be placed in a position in which the lower extremities can produce movement. Because of this, related movements of the pelvic girdle and the thigh at the hip joint occur simultaneously to create efficient joint actions (Hamill & Knutzen, 1995). During phases III and IV, the pelvic girdle moves from a posterior tilted position in thigh flexion to an anterior tilted position during thigh extension during the stand up phase. Although movements of the pelvic girdle in this phase are created by concentric contractions of surrounding muscles, it occurs as a consequence of movements at the thigh and lumbar vertebrae. Therefore, no one set of muscles act on the pelvis specifically to create this movement (Hamill & Knutzen, 1995).

Hip Extension

Movements of the upper extremity occur in conjunction with movements of the lower extremity at the hip joint, knee joint, ankle joint and tarsal joints. During the pull up and stand up phase of the ice climbing progression, the thigh is extending at the hip joint, allowing the body to rise into a standing position with full hip extension on the ice. This movement is slow and constant until the climber is standing erect. Extension of the thigh at the hip joint is performed by a concentric contraction of the hip joint flexors; the semimembranosus, semitendinosus, biceps femoris (long) and the gluteus maximus.

Knee Extension

During the pull up stand up phase there is no replacing of the feet on the ice. Therefore, extension of the thigh at the hip joint cannot occur without simultaneous extension of the leg at the knee joint. The rectus femoris, vastus lateralis, vastus intermedius, and the vastus medialis constitute the primary movers for knee extension. Extension of the leg at the knee joint is carried out by a concentric contraction of these knee flexors. The movement up and into a fully extended position of the knee joint is a slow and controlled upwards motion.

Ankle Plantar Flexion

Movement at the ankle joint also occurs in conjunction with the movements at the hip joint and the knee joint. During this movement the ankle is plantar flexed by a concentric contraction, from a position of dorsiflexion. This is also a slow and controlled movement upwards. While the climber is moving upwards into a standing position, the primary movers for plantar flexion, the gastrocnemius and the soleus, are concentrically contracting to produce plantar flexion.

Flexion of the Toes

In phase III and IV of the ice progression, the ankle is moved from a position of dorsiflexion towards plantar flexion but terminates once the body is fully erect, not quite reaching a plantar flexed position. While this movement is occurring, the toes are isometrically flexion within the boot to resist the force of gravity pushing down. If the toes didn’t flex isometrically, then the foot wouldn’t be stable enough to maintain position in ice. This isometric contraction is produced by the toe flexors, which include the flexor hallicus longus and the flexor digitorum longus.

Stabilization of Trunk

As described throughout the entire ice progression activity, the trunk is stabilized by an isometric contraction of the erector spinae muscle group and the deep posterior spinal muscle group. Stabilization of the trunk enables climber to keep balance and perform movements of extremities more effectively.

 

Once phase III and IV are successfully completed, the climber assesses current position in relation to the next desired position further up the ice. After planning the execution of the next progression, the ice climber repeats all four phases until reaching the top and the ice has been conquered!

 

Conditioning

Conditioning for ice climbing is important to prevent injury and to maximus the chance of success on a particular climb. The following is a suggested exercise plan mean for individuals with a high level of physical fitness (Bompa, 1999; Twight, & Martin, 1999). The nature of the sport demands this level of fitness since ice climbing is dangerous and fatiguing quickly would have serious consequences.

Flexibility

Flexibility is not extremely important in the actual movement in ice climbing since the clothing and equipment limits full range of motion (Twight, & Martin, 1999). Flexibility is necessary, however, to prevent injury. A short pre and post stretch is all that is needed to help prevent injury. The following examples are stretches to do shortly before and after the climb.

To stretch the arm, forearm, and finger flexors place the outstretched hand with the fingers extended against a corner or post such as the side of a tree or car door at shoulder height. Hyperextend the fingers, wrist, forearm and horizontally extend the shoulder as far a possible and hold for a minute. Repeat with the other arm.

To stretch the quadriceps stand on one leg and grab the foot with the opposite arm (for added balance training). Pull back on the foot, flexing the knee and hyperextending the thigh. Hold for a minute and switch legs.

To stretch the hamstrings place a full outstretched leg and foot on the car tailgate or kicked into the ice at a stable height above the ground. Keeping the knee extended if possible, or barely flexed, flex the trunk and bring the arm on the same side of the stretching leg as close to the toes as possible. Try to touch the chest to the knee and the hand as far out as possible. Hold for a minute and switch legs. A hurdlers’ stretch would also work, but the ground may be too cold to sit on.

 

High Resistance Weight Training

High resistance weight training is necessary to train the muscles for the great strength and endurance necessary to complete a climb without falling (Twight, & Martin, 1999). Manual resistance exercises are not sufficient to train the muscles for the demands of ice climbing (Twight, & Martin, 1999). Three specific programs are outlined below: Endurance, Power, and Cardiovascular (Bompa, 1999; Twight, & Martin, 1999). The programs can be alternated daily, or weekly, depending upon recovery time and scheduling (Bompa, 1999; Twight, & Martin, 1999).

Muscular Endurance 3-5 x Week

3-4 sets of 12-15 repetitions using medium weight resistance of the following:

-Bent over row, biceps curl, or lat pulls (or 3 sets of chin-up until failure).

-Standing wrist curls

-Squats, leg press

-Calf raise

(The following work antagonistic muscle groups to help balance muscular strength)

-Bench press

-Triceps press

-Military press

-Leg extensions

Power 2-3 x Week

The following exercises should be done in a total of 15 sets, rotating every 3 sets (Bompa, 1999; Twight, & Martin, 1999). The first 9 sets should be done in increasing weight with decreasing repetitions (Bompa, 1999; Twight, & Martin, 1999). Start with 11 repetitions at a low weight, and work towards 3 repetitions at a weight that will produce failure (Bompa, 1999; Twight, & Martin, 1999). The last six sets should be at just below maximal weight in repetitions of two to three (Bompa, 1999; Twight, & Martin, 1999). Do no more than three power exercises in one training session (Bompa, 1999; Twight, & Martin, 1999). The following are the power exercises (Bompa, 1999; Twight & Martin, 1999):

-Lat Pulls

-Standing Finger Curls

-Bent Over Dumbbell rows

-Calf Raises

-Leg Press

Cardiovascular Training 3-5 x Week

Climbing, and approaching climbs tax the lungs and heart. In order to maximize success on a climb, training the cardiovascular system is essential (Twight, & Martin, 1999). Three exercises are listed and should be rotated to facilitate recovery (Twight, & Martin, 1999). These exercises can be performed by running, biking, Stairmaster, or any other mechanism that will get the heart rate up to a sufficient rate (Twight, & Martin, 1999).

-Long moderate runs (or other activity) for 1 - 2 hours of medium exertion. Example: Running uphill for an hour, then back downhill.

-Shorter harder runs (or other activity) for 30 minutes – 1 hour at a high level of exertion. Examples: Trail runs at a fast pace, Stairmaster interval training program at maximum level, or Stairmaster with a heavy backpack at medium level.

-Fast intense runs (or other activity) for 1 – 3 minute intervals at maximum effort for 20 min – 1 hour. Example: Sprinting uphill for 1 – 3 minutes, walking to recovery, and sprinting uphill again for 20 min – 1 hour.

 

Ice Climbing Instruction:

Instruction of ice climbing should always emphasize safety. Proficiency with rope management techniques and the use of specialized climbing equipment is prerequisite for the ice climbing instructor. Ability and experience assessing objective mountain hazards such as avalanche, ice fall, rock fall is also necessary. A good working knowledge of backcountry first aid, and specifically, cold weather injury, is crucial. The ice climbing environment is often unforgiving. Miscalculations or oversights on the part of the instructor can easily result in death.

As with all movement skills, instruction should follow logical progression. Instructors should be proficient in assessing the capabilities of others. Instruction usually begins with an introduction to the equipment. Many types of clothing and climbing hardware can and should be introduced and discussed. However, for movement purposes, the focus is on the points of contact with the ice, the crampons and the ice tools. Usually, if terrain allows, instruction begins with walking on low angled ice, 0-25 degrees. As students become comfortable, steeper terrain is used, up to 45 degrees, perhaps still without ice tools. Proficient footwork is the objective of the low angled instruction. This can be difficult for some to acquire if ice tools are introduced at the start, as the tools become the focus of the novice climber. A single ice tool is introduced, soon followed by the second, as proficiency is gained. Two ice tools are usually used to climb ice steeper than 50 degrees, and absolutely essential for anything remotely approaching vertical. Sometimes, lower angled ice is not available and it is necessary to begin instruction on steeper terrain. All novices should be protected by a “top rope” or rope from above, that will prevent them from falling more than the very short distance accounted for by stretch in the rope. Falls are usually a result of fatigue, poor technique, breaking ice, rocks or ice falling from above, or miscalculation of ability. Novices usually use excessive force when gripping the ice tools and striking the ice. This results in unnecessary fatigue. (American Alpine Institute Guide’s Manual, 1999)

 

Injuries

Injuries due to ice climbing vary from minor soft tissue injuries to more serious injuries to the muscles, tendons and joints. To further the reader’s understanding of possible injuries to the body while ice climbing, the following definitions will be given: bursitis, tendonitis, dislocation, avulsion and strain.

Bursitis is an inflammation of the bursa, a fibrous fluid filled sac located between tendons, bones or other articulating surfaces (Hamill and Knutzen, 1995). The bursa serves to reduce friction between these articulating surfaces or structures (Hamill and Knutzen, 1995). Tendonitis is the inflammation of the tendon, a muscles origin or insertion (Hamill and Knutzen, 1995). Dislocation of the shoulder joint occurs when two articulating bones become dislocated from their normal range of articulation. Avulsion of a tendon occurs when the tendon detaches from the bone (Hamill and Knutzen,1995). Strain is defined as an injury to the muscle, tendon, or muscle-tendon articulation due to excessive tension on the muscle, which causes rupture and tearing of the fibers of the muscle or tendon (Hamill and Knutzen, 1995).

 

INJURIES TO THE UPPER EXTREMITY

Injuries in the upper extremity occur mainly at the shoulder joint, elbow joint, wrist joint and at the hand joints. Shoulder joint injuries include dislocation of the ball and socket joint, and tendonitis of the shoulder joint tendons. Tendonitis is also commonly observed at the elbow joint due excessive flexion and extension with a significant weight bearing applied to the joint.

Joints of the wrist and hand experience a great deal of injuries. The wrist joint can suffer a strain, however its most common ailment is carpel tunnel syndrome. Carpel tunnel syndrome is elicited from a compression of the median nerve within the carpal tunnel formed by the carpals of the wrist (Jebson and Steyers, 1997). Complaints will often consist of a volar wrist and pain in the forearm and paresthesias in the radial 3½ digits (Jebson and Steyers, 1997).

Tendonitis of the hand flexors, bursitis and broken fingers are common ailments of the hand joints for ice climbers. Flexor tendonitis of the hand is caused by repetitive stress upon the tendon insertions (Jebson and Steyers, 1997). Complaints for this include pain and swelling of the palmar surface of the digit. This may continue into palm and up the forearm (Jebson and Steyers, 1997).

Bursitis at the interphalangeal joints occurs due to repetitive blows of the joint against the ice when swinging the ice tool. It is also common for ice climbers to break their fingers, especially the ring and pinky due to their lack of stability in the opposing grip on the ice axe. The distal phalanges are a common weak point for the fingers.

 

INJURIES TO THE TRUNK AND LOWER EXTREMITY

Lower back injuries are common in the climber as is severe muscle tension in the muscles of the shoulder girdle and the upper trapezius. There is also the possibility for damage to the amphiarthrodial joints of the spine.

Hip joint injuries include strain of the hip extensors and flexors and tendonitis of the hip joint tendons. Tendonitis is also a common problem at the knee joint as is bursitis and chronic bruising, both due to consistent patellar pressure from the knees stabilizing and bending into the ice. Ankles also suffer from strains as well as sprains.

SOFT TISSUE DAMAGE

Bruises and abrasions are the most common injuries experienced by ice climbers. Abrasions of the face are especially common due to the back swing of ice axe as well as ice chips that are pushed out as the ice axe enters the ice. Frostbite of the distal limbs such as the fingers, toes and the face is also a potential hazard.

[barjor]

Maybee you can get it into the next edition of "Fredom of the hills"

[robert]

What about the phase which occurs during all of the other phases and involves pinchy?

[miller]

This is FUN!!!!

[kurthicks]

[Divot]

lol....

[Dechristo]

Largess Of Lol

[Divot]

LOLOLOLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLL DAMN IT

[tomtom]

thunk, thunk, kick, kick (repeat)

[bcollins]

Ya right, your totally talking out your ass ML.

Everyone knows that trunk extension increases lumbar kyphosis which accentuates ANTERIOR pelvic tilt.

Do your homework man!

Barry

[bcollins]

Damn, I meant lumbar lordosis. Must have been stoned during that lecture.