b-rock Posted May 4, 2005 Posted May 4, 2005 Selkirk, The short answer is that Outer Space is the perfect route for a 5.9 leader who has not yet broken into 5.10. You will be challenged, but you will succeed. Quote
mvs Posted May 5, 2005 Posted May 5, 2005 say, harder than 5.8 (Dogleg, The Arch, Spaghetti, Sauce), but easier than 5.10 (Air Guitar, George and Martha, Bo Derek) etc. Ah there is the problem, Air Guitar and (possibly) George and Martha are easy for 5.10, they should be 5.9. Quote
selkirk Posted May 5, 2005 Author Posted May 5, 2005 Air Guitar seemed a bit soft, but George and Martha seemed pretty honest to me. (but then again i've o)nly led 3 5.10 cracks so what the hell do I know? Quote
Mr._Natural Posted May 11, 2005 Posted May 11, 2005 look for a face hold above the crack when the feet get thin. you are so not getting the on site. Quote
Doug_Hutchinson Posted May 11, 2005 Posted May 11, 2005 (edited) SCW was bone dry on sunday. Look out for the horde of goats protecting the base. No shit, the goats at the base were trundling rocks on us two weeks ago as we approached! Be careful. If you want to worry about something, watch out for the Snow Creek Wall tick infestation. Is it me, or are the ticks really bad this year? Three weeks ago, lots of ticks at Tieton and two weeks ago, Snow Creek was pretty ticky as well. Edited May 11, 2005 by Doug_Hutchinson Quote
Rocksanyone Posted May 11, 2005 Posted May 11, 2005 Climbed it last year for the first time and had a blast! The traverse was a bit awkword but once through it it was not as bad as I thought. One of the best times on rock! Oh, and wear your helmet on the trail down! Quote
Dr_Flush_Amazing Posted May 23, 2005 Posted May 23, 2005 The traverse felt like 5.10+. In the doctor's professional opinion, you musta been loopy. Quote
catbirdseat Posted May 23, 2005 Posted May 23, 2005 Professor, as a 5.13 climber, you can't tell the difference between 5.9 and 5.10. It's all the same to you. If you are a 5.9 climber as I am, it might be hard to tell the difference between 5.5 and 5.6, but I can tell the difference between 5.9 and 5.10. Quote
tomtom Posted May 23, 2005 Posted May 23, 2005 I thought the traverse pitch was pretty sustained and sporty at the grade. There are several fixed pieces on route - an alien (?) deep in the crack at the first overhang, the rap slings, a nut as you start the traverse, and a new C4 Costalot 3/4ths of the way across - and there is plenty of other protection opportunities. I sewed it up pretty well. As a borderline 5.9 climber, I yarded on the rap slings (A0) to speed things up. Edit: Turns out the C4 cam belongs to Mr. Ascentionist. Quote
RuMR Posted May 23, 2005 Posted May 23, 2005 You are in the same category as Dr. Flash. you oughta maybe go check some benchmark 5.9's down in the valley and reevaluate your definition of "5.9" and 5.10...don't rely on gym basis... Quote
Peter_Puget Posted May 23, 2005 Posted May 23, 2005 you oughta maybe go check some benchmark 5.9's down in the valley and reevaluate your definition of "5.9" and 5.10...don't rely on gym basis... I agree RumR.... besides 5.9 is real climbing it's supposed to be hard. Quote
catbirdseat Posted May 23, 2005 Posted May 23, 2005 I can do Deception Crack, 5.9 on Eightmile Rock and it is easy. Likewise Classic Crack, 5.8+ is very easy. Quote
RuMR Posted May 23, 2005 Posted May 23, 2005 dude...you are soooo smoking crack to think that thing is even remotely 5.10... Quote
Peter_Puget Posted May 23, 2005 Posted May 23, 2005 CBS – I can’t remember much about those routes. All I can tell you is that 5.9 can be pretty hard at times and that the traverse didn’t seem like 5.10 to me. What 5.9s seem like 5.9 to you? Quote
Gary_Yngve Posted May 23, 2005 Posted May 23, 2005 I can do Deception Crack, 5.9 on Eightmile Rock and it is easy. Likewise Classic Crack, 5.8+ is very easy. Deception Crack is a one-move wonder. Classic Crack is short. The crux pitch on Outer Space is sustained. Quote
RuMR Posted May 23, 2005 Posted May 23, 2005 CBS – I can’t remember much about those routes. All I can tell you is that 5.9 can be pretty hard at times and that the traverse didn’t seem like 5.10 to me. What 5.9s seem like 5.9 to you? the red-and-white taped route in the back corner! Quote
Mr._Natural Posted May 23, 2005 Posted May 23, 2005 I can do Deception Crack, 5.9 on Eightmile Rock and it is easy. Likewise Classic Crack, 5.8+ is very easy. Deception Crack is a one-move wonder. Classic Crack is short. The crux pitch on Outer Space is sustained. no its like 15 feet. Quote
Cobra_Commander Posted May 23, 2005 Posted May 23, 2005 CBS – I can’t remember much about those routes. All I can tell you is that 5.9 can be pretty hard at times and that the traverse didn’t seem like 5.10 to me. What 5.9s seem like 5.9 to you? the red-and-white taped route in the back corner! RuMR: chill out Quote
RuMR Posted May 23, 2005 Posted May 23, 2005 CobraCommander: Buzz off (hopefully that will get through the moderator screening...pretty heavy at the moment, btw) Quote
Peter_Puget Posted May 23, 2005 Posted May 23, 2005 Hey Rumr...seeing your ass flashing always gets me in a perverted mood! Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.