first ascent New Rockroutes in WaPass, Mazama, Chewuch area?

[Uncle_Tricky]

In the last 3-5 years? Personal experience/rumor/links/thirdhand k-nowledge? PM works good. Thanks.

[scott_johnston]

Unc;

I could tell you but then I'd have to kill you. You know how possessive we Mazamanites are of our own turf especially with you Twispoids.

You are right that ther has been a bit of route development in the valley in the last few years. Some of it is documented on this forum but some is under the radar. What realy needs to happen is that lazy, underacheiver, Burdo needs to get to work and finish his updated guidebook. Actually he needs to come indoors and get off the rock long enough to do some editing.

 

Here is a list of some current and future developments that is no doubt incomplete. Perhaps others can chime in.

 

Starting at the head of the Valley;

Mazama area:

1)Robinson Creek-aka Prospect point;

A nice steep limestone-like sport crag with about 8 routes in the 5.8 to 11c/d range. Drive out past Lost River like you were going to Harts Pass. About a mile or so after the pavement ends you hit a fire line cut frorm the big fire a couple of years back. At that point look up hill to the right to see the light colored cliff. Park at a small cairn just beyond and follow the trail to a big ledge traversing the cliff. Up and left of the ledge across a gulley are two 10s. The far right end of the ledge has a couple of 5.8/9s (belay anchors there) the goods are in the middle of the ledge.

2)YellowJacket; Solid rumors of a new Burdo bouldering area of vast extent.

3) Goat Wall

a) Sysiphus (III 5.11a) bolts- Moderately popular route from 3 years ago. Topo posted on CC.com

b) Restless Native (III 5.11a) bolts. 200m left of Sysiphus. Ususally wet early season.

c) NW buttress of GW. Under construction. Bryan and I left this one last fall about half done. More details when it is finished. Should end up around 12 pitches III 5.8. Goes to the top of GW.

d) Other GW projects are in the works but need a bunch more work so not use going into detail yet.

e)Inside the base of the Czech Gulley (see the WA ice guide) above the Mazama Queen mine Steve House and I put up a bolted mixed route a few years ago. Does that count? It is good fun and mostly a rock climb. It might even go inthe summer.

4) Fun Rock area. Several new routes there. Not just the Sun Bug area but also the Canine Crag. I will try to update the posted topo out there soon as it has faded somewhat. Thanks to all you Funsters for not taking it down these last couple of years. With BB's book out of print the locals were getting tired of giving beta to visitors so I made up a little public guide with topos. It needs updating and refreshing.

a) Canine Crag -Dog House 5.11c

b) Sun Bug- the Buldge 5.10d, Psycholgical crutch 5.10a

 

Chewuch road:

1) Mosquito Coast- Fine steep granite cliff with 3 or 4 routes so far. Equipped with anchors and lead bolts on some routes. Drive out E or W Chewuch roads to their junction. Turn onto dirt FS road across bridge so that you are on the E bank. Go about one mile and pass some houses till you see a large (100') white cliff 100m off the road to the right through the trees.

2)Cowboy Crag. After crossing above bridge turn right at a fork go up hill to a old gravel pit with green gate. Park here walk through pit go uphill to cliff beyond. 2-3 routes of dubious merit. Not sure what Bryan and I were thinking! May be worhty if you are at the Mosquito and need some more.

 

I may well edit this post later to reflect my memory being jogged or my better judgement.

 

WA Pass area

1) Spontaneity Arete II/III 5.8 on Le Petit Cheval: info posted on CC.com Moderate alpine rock route on nice rock with good trail access. Beats the pants off the S arete of SEW for quality and continuousness.

2)Gato Negro IV 5.10+ on Whine Spire W face of Silver Star. Info posted on CC.com

3) Action Potential III 5.10 E face of Burgandy Spire info on CC.com

4) Beautiful Crack III 5.10 variation on above. Info on CC.com.

 

 

Hope that helps.

Scott

Edited April 11, 2005 by scott_johnston

[Billygoat]

I'm getting ready to do a bunch. All the reconoitering (sp?!) is complete.

 

So much to do, so little time.....

 

 

[specialed]

You mean, so much to bolt

[jordop]

Last time this was discussed no one could sort out where Gato Negro and Off White's routes on Silver Star were in relation to each other. Did this ever get sorted out

[bobbyperu]

yes

[scott_johnston]

Since I am too dumb to figure out how to include a photo in my post (despite having tried several times) I have attached a photo of the W face of Silver Star. The yellow line is Gato Negro. The green line is where I believe Off White's route to be. This is based on a poor topo and some conversations so it is suspect to say the least. Correct me if I am wrong.

Scott

[Steddy]

i used to be dumb, too.

[Off_White]

That's more or less right Scott, though it also climbs the lower triangular face too. Somehow I thought we'd put them both on a photo, I can even see it in my mind, but I can't find a copy anywhere, so maybe we just talked about it. Anyway, here's a view of that route (right hand start includes optional 5.11a face pitch)

 

 

 

[Billygoat]

You mean, so much to bolt

 

I've never bolted a thing!...yet

 

Or is it you can't envision any new trad lines in the whole of WaPass

[scott_johnston]

Off_White;

Thanks for clarifying your route. I thought we might have had a line a photo too but can't find it either. Your photo does much more justice to the route's position than mine did. Perhaps I can even edit the photo to add the Gato Negro route.

Scott

Edited April 13, 2005 by scott_johnston

[MarkAllen]

ADDITIONS to LIST

 

WA PASS:

Burgundy Spire NE Buttress, Ultramega OK III+ (5.10c/d AO)or5.11 7pitches

Siverstar Massif Siver tooth, The Crown II 5.9 5pitches

[jmather]

" 2)YellowJacket; Solid rumors of a new Burdo bouldering area of vast extent."

 

Any information/beta etc about this?

[dberdinka]

Siverstar Massif Siver tooth, The Crown II 5.9 5pitches

 

Anyone know what aspect of the tooth this route is on? Is it any good?

[layton]

North i believe, and mark said it was good