Rack for Clean Aid on Upper Town Wall?

[dberdinka]

Aaaaaaghhh! The wizen forecasters are calling for an extended period of sunshine! Can my soggy, pale skin handle it?

 

I'm thinking I might head down to Index to do some aid climbing. Any recommendations for a clean aid rack for Green Dragon and/or Town Crier? Widgets and trickery?

 

Thanks in advance. Darin

[Mr._Natural]

I haven't done TC but from what I have heard you don't need too much in the way of widgitz. I do remember cleaning a fish hook that my pardner left ductaped to a flake on green drag on, but it too basically goes clean with very little trickery required, steep though! have fun and enjoy he sun/exposure. btw, I have heard that the "best line" whatever that means, is to start on green drag on and traverse over to TC for the x3 roofs pitch. has anyone done this?

[ScottP]

I don't remember using anything more than nuts and cams on TC. Bring a variety of hooks for Green Drag-on.

[RuMR]

Watch out for axle grease!!

 

[ScottP]

quote:

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Originally posted by RuMR:

Watch out for axle grease!!

 

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That's right! Better add a butane torch to the gear list.

[Lambone]

Darin,

 

The Green Drag-on is sweet, forget the Crier, its a grovel up wide cracks...

 

For Drag-on bring a standard rack of doubles from tiny up to #2 and 1 #3 camolot, you don't need #4

 

Bring a few hooks, including a cam hook for the crux move. As usual HB offsets and Aliens make the aiding much more fun.

 

All the belays and lead bolts are bomber. It's a great solo, very direct and not much free climbing.

 

Rap the route with 3 double 60m rope raps, or do more short ones.

 

Enjoy, PM me if ya want more info.

[DCramer]

quote:

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Originally posted by Mr. Natural:

[QB]btw, I have heard that the "best line" whatever that means, is to start on green drag on and traverse over to TC for the x3 roofs pitch. has anyone done this?

[QB]

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I am sure you can get from the GD to the TC but only have experience with the reverse direction. If you do it, let me know how it goes. A new variation exists on the TC route. Variation: On the chimney pitch of TC (2nd pitch) stop at the top of 12 Angry Bees. From there climb more or less straight up past a corner and then up a vertical crack to rejoin the route near the top of the regular third pitch. I am told this pitch is C2 and that it is a better way to go. The loose block indicated in the topo in Sky Valley Rock is now at the base of the route. Also, the bolted anchor below Smokeout Ledge #1 shown in the same topo doesn't exist. Stupid guidebook writers! If you do the variation, post a reply here or send me a PM giving more details. The second pitch of GD may be a bit damp.

 

Darryl

 

[ 11-21-2002, 10:33 AM: Message edited by: DCramer ]

[DPS]

Is that the loose block on pitch 3 below the roof pendulem? That block went sailing over my belayer's head while we were on GD. A fellow on TC pendulumed over to it and tried to climb it. Luckily no one was hurt. That was back in June 5, 1998.

[DCramer]

Well the location is approximately the same; however, the block I mean was about 4' tall and met its demise last year sometime. I guess this illustrates just how many loose blocks exist!

 

Darryl

 

[ 11-21-2002, 10:42 AM: Message edited by: DCramer ]

[chelle]

Sorta on topic... A big block got accidently pryed off Shirley last week and is in the talus pile below in two pieces. It was previously to the right of the arete at the top of the lower 5.9 section.

 

Thankfully it just gave a core shot to the climber's rope and noone was hurt.

 

[ 11-21-2002, 12:52 PM: Message edited by: ehmmic ]