Alpine harness features...help me choose

[tlc]

I'm looking for a light compact harness for general mountaineering use. I'm considering Trango Mountain Harness (9 oz) and Mammut Alpine Lite Harness (10 oz). Both are about $35 and have quick release adjustable leg loops. The main differences are the Trango Mountain has a belay loop, and the Mammut Alpine Lite has a drop seat feature.

 

Without a belay loop I gather I need to have an extra caribiner to holp up the loop between the leg loops and attach it to the waist belt, as well as for attaching my belay device.

 

How does the drop seat feature work when tied in to the rope? If the rope is tied through the loop between the leg loops and the waist belt, wouldn't I still need to untie from the rope to put on rain pants or toilet calls?

 

Your comments are greatly appreciated!

[vanisle]

Dude

I would just use a "regular" harness like the black diamond Momemtum AL (14oz's) it heavier, but chances are that if you are new to alpine climbing your probably bringing to much other hardware (biners, pro, slings) the BD harness wieghs only 3 or 4 biners more than the other light harness/thongs. you may as well get something comfortable and you can use the harness for sport and trad rock too.

ya you would still need to untie to get extra pants on and to take a crap. just plan what you are doing and an akward situation will not arise.

[tlc]

Thanks. I already have a sport climbing harness. I weigh 108 lbs, so every ounce in my pack counts!

 

So, if the drop seat feature isn't all that usefull then should I go with the Trango Mountain harness? Any opinions on this harness?

Edited April 2, 2005 by tlc

[Dr_Crash]

Not having a belay loop is not an issue, you simply use a big HMS biner (e.g. Petzl William) around the leg loops and waist loop. The archetypical alpine harness, the BD alpine bod, is like that. For lightweight with a single attaching point check out the Petzl Pandion. Also PMS sells a very lightweight padded harness (in the 9 or 10 oz range) though the gear loops look like crap.

 

drC

[tlc]

Yeah, I was wondering about a single attachment point. Would it be uncomfortable in a fall with the pull all on the waist? Also, what company is "PMS"?

 

Do you think the webbing is too thin in this Trango harness:

 

http://trango.com/prod.php?id=98

 

And the Mammut Alpine Lite harness is here:

 

http://www.mtntools.com/cat/rclimb/harness/mammutalpinelightharness.htm

[Ade]

PMS is Pro Mountain Sports , Jim Nelson's shop in the U District. If you want lightweight gear it's a great place to go looking.

 

A really lightweight mountain harness isn't designed to be super comfortable for taking big falls or hanging in for long periods. If you're doing either of these things by choice in the mountains then something's gone badly wrong. If you want a harness for more general use then get a standard rock climbing harness. This will have wider webbing and more padding and thus be much more comfortable.

[tlc]

Thanks, great link. The Cassin Eolo harness looks good, but expensive.

 

I don't plan to take big falls or hanging in for long periods. Primary use would be steep snow and glacier travel and climbing as a means to an end (i.e. getting to peaks).

[genepires]

I have an old rei harness (heaven forbid I admitted to buying in rei) that they no longer make of course. But I think it is a great alpine harness and have used it for many good climbs.

 

features (that I think are important) include:

belay loop - this is so nice for technical climbing.

 

4 gear loops - You gotta put stuff somewhere

 

no padding - just webbing, why have the extra stuff if you are never falling?

 

packable - some harness while light, don't fold up in a small volume. Ideally, the harness could roll up into a small ball.

 

the webbing won't roll over into a uncomfortable thing that curts into my side. Single wide webbing like the BD alpine bod, had a tendancy after much use, to roll over to a smaller section and cut into my waist. I think two passes of webbing sewn together won't do this.

 

I am also looking for a new alpine harness and I think I might get the trango one. Rainy pass said they can add gear loops. (trango only has two gear loops)

[Dr_Crash]

4 gear loops for the stated use (snow/glacier and a bit of climbing eventually) is a lot. 2 would be fine IMHO. Also, on snow/glacier padding usually is made up by the clothes you're wearing, so you can skimp on the harness padding and go for simple webbing.

 

I personally use a Petzl Adjama for everything. It's 13 oz and there are many modern padded harness at just that weight. I've used a loaned alpine bod previously and it was fine, including hanging with clothes on.

 

drC

[MtnNomad]

If you want a ultra-lite harness for alpine use you should check out www.cilao.com . I have the OZ22 and it weighs 100gm (3.5oz). They dont come much lighter! Probably not the best harness for hanging in, but it is very small and lite.

 

I would have to agree with Ade's comments: "A really lightweight mountain harness isn't designed to be super comfortable for taking big falls or hanging in for long periods. If you're doing either of these things by choice in the mountains then something's gone badly wrong."

[Montana_Climber]

I also have to admit to having the REI harness but their metal buckle-dropable leg loop system is the easiest I've come across for an alpine harness.

 

Having the belay loop is quite handy in certain situations. Mostly...at belay stations. It's nice to have the loop to spread out some of your setup at the stations, especially if you are using mitts at the time. If you're crossing glaciers then you'll typically have at least one jumar/prussik if not two already on your harness in addition to being tied into the rope. Add belay device and/or clipped into a belay station and you'll appreciate it.

 

If you're leading alpine routes then you'll want the gear loops unless you sling everything over your shoulder. I prefer to keep it on my harness since the stuff usually gets a little trickier to get off while wearing a pack.

 

Hope this helps some.

[Bill_Simpkins]

I am a big supporter of the Mammut Alpine Lite Harness.

It's simple, pretty lite, and cheap.

Things to look for in an alpine harness:

1. Lite!

2. Water Resistant

3. Simple

4. Can take on and off with crampons.

5. Doesn't clash with the Schoeller leisure suit.

[glassgowkiss]

i use rock empire harness. light, comfy and very cheap! best buy for your$$. MEC sells it.

[tlc]

Thanks for all your comments. I think I might go with the Trango Mountain Harness.

[kurthicks]

I just got a Trango harness and am going to "modify" it to make the seat a little more dropable. just cut the elastic in the back and sew a fastex buckle on it. good harness.