April 21-26, LibertyRidge

[jane]

Hi, Mike,

 

Four of us are planning on doing L.R. during April 21-26.

You said the rock fall is a problem, especially bellow the Thumb Rock. Is the rock fall less frequent before the sun hits? I mean, shall we opt for an early start everyday, say, 3 am or 4am?

 

thanks

 

Jane

[Kraken]

if i were you, i'd be up at 1, climbing by 2. That would give you about 5 hours before the sun was up at full force. Especially this year, lib ridge seems to be an area that will be prone to lots of rockfall and harsh conditions.

 

I've never been on it though, I'm just talking from what I've heard and learned about the route.

[rockguy]

IMHO a mountaineer experienced enough to safely attempt Liberty Ridge would not have to ask if rock fall is less frequent before the sun comes up.

[KaskadskyjKozak]

IMHO a mountaineer experienced enough to safely attempt Liberty Ridge would not have to ask if rock fall is less frequent before the sun comes up.

 

Amen.

 

I'd recommend reading Mike Gauthier's comments in this thread:

 

click here

 

The relevent comments are at the bottom. Too many people go up there who don't have enough experience, are not fit enough, get a late start, move too slowly, etc.

Edited March 31, 2005 by KaskadskyjKozak

[mr.radon]

Four sounds like a BIG group. You'd be better off soloing the route to move fast. Rope up for the approach & descent.

Come-on, of course the route spits more rocks as things heat up. Thumb Rock isn't 100% safe either.

[glassgowkiss]

like the song says: stary, stary night....

[Mike_Gauthier]

Hi Jane

 

Leaving early will help for sure, especially if the temps drop below freezing, but leaving early may not be necessary. I'm not sure what your team's comfort level is with mountaineering, but moving quickly (while being safe) is by far the best defense against rockfall.

 

Two weeks ago before all this recent snowfall landed, I was concerned about the lower ridges on Sunset, Liberty and Success. Now I am less concerned, as we have received quite a bit of new snow (the Paradise snowpack doubled in less than a week.)

 

I'm much more optimistic about spring and summer climbing conditions, and would say that what probably matters most is what is happening during the preceding 2 weeks.

 

Keep your eyes peeled on the weather as your trip approaches, and train hard. Carry as light as you can, but be prepared for an extended storm.

 

Four is a large team, but doable. You might consider two teams of two.

 

Mike

[Mike_Gauthier]

Actually, I wouldn't leave at 3-4 am to reach Thumb Rock. Unless it were really warm. Which seems unlikely in April. You could also camp on the Carbon Glacier to save some time.

[jane]

Hi, Mike,

 

Thanks for the advice. Yes, we did plan on going as 2x2 teams. We started hard training months ago. Three out of four had previous big alpine experience. We just hope we will have good weather and be lucky.

 

We are keeping track the weather and your post on this Forum.

 

thanks for your time and effort!

 

Jane

[Mjolnir]

I am also on this team planning to climb LR in April. We plan to do teams of two, with the provision that both teams stay within a pitch or so of each other.

 

Is this new snow consolidating with the old pack, or are we likely in for an avalanche festival as the new snow slides on the old stuff?

 

Thanks for all the helpful comments.

[Mike_Gauthier]

The force is strong on this page.

[Alex]

The new snow wont bond up there in April unless it gets baking hot for a couple weeks. If its activly snowing immediately before or while you are on route the slopes above Thumb and the entire nw bail slope below Thumb are big slides waiting to happen. The bail slope has some cracks that you can jump unroped while careening full speed downhill with full pack trying to beat the storm back to the Carbon.

[jcclimber]

my grp is going up this route in mid may, so looking forward to a trip report.

hey whiteriver road is not open til 5/1, what's your approach route?

Edited April 19, 2005 by jcclimber

[Fuggedaboudit]

Party of 2 heading into park from Ipsut Sat about 1pm. Are your plans still 4/21-26? You might already be on your way and not get this but in case you do GOOD LUCK. Just this AM the forecast took a slight turn for the worse for Sun-Tues, 10% showers up to 30%-40%. If we meet up at Thumb Rock or so more than happy to switch leads breaking trail if its postholing. Sounds like you may be the first party(s) on route this season.

[Kraken]

are these guys doing it right now? I'm looking for a TR when they get back!

[snowball]

Has anyone heard whats happened to Jane's party of 4? Interested in how thay faired...

Edited May 3, 2005 by snowball

[jane]

We ended up attempting Gilbrater Ledges.

 

We arrived at Camp Muir on the 22nd. The weather was stormy. We waited for a day. On the 24th, the weather improved, but the avalanche danger was too high, after a slab test. So we decided to just play around. We ascended along Cowlitz Cleaver up to Beehive. While ascending, we witnessed avalanche going down the Gib chute. It was a good decision that we turned around. To our knowledge, no party submitted from any route during the 4/22-24 time frame. The weather was just too much.

 

Jane

[sweatinoutliquor]

Glad y'all played it safe up there! Hopefully you get the route next time!

[snowball]

Ditto.

 

I plan to be up there 1st week in June. My girlfriend and i are planning to climb Fuhrer Finger. Maybe we'll see ya if youre up for another try...