rockguy

I took the Mountaineers' Basic Climbing course many years ago--it was, for the most part, horrible (and put on by some of the most dysfunctional people I've ever met). There are probably Mountaineers out there who are nice and who can actually climb (that being said, I've yet to run into any). I've been climbing for 17 years and, during these 17 years, I've had the displeasure of running into the Mountaineers many times in the hills. Almost without exception, the Mountie groups I have run into have epitomized the term "shit-show." Most Mounties don't have a clue what they're doing (and most Mountie leaders should NOT be leading anyone; the fact is, most Mountaineers are woefully unqualified to teach anyone how to climb). Incidentally, of the handful of Mountie "leaders" who instructed me, three ended up in accidents that were highlighted in Accidents in North American Mountaineering, and two of those leaders were later killed in the hills. I have a profound dislike of the Mountaineers; I recommend staying far, far away from this dangerous group.

If you end up doing the Burgner-Stanley, and you find a red C4, please let me know--I'll provide a small reward.

I've climb SST solo car to car in under 5.5 hours--quite doable.

They're called mochi.Japanese food is the best. And good for ya'. Nope. Mochi is the frozen pseudo-ice cream thing. Very high in calories. Nope. Mochi is simply glutinous rice (mochigome) that's been pounded or otherwise processed into a paste like consistency. It’s eaten in a variety or ways and in combination with a variety of foods (e.g., ice cream), but it is not ice cream, pseudo or otherwise. FYI.

They're called mochi.Japanese food is the best. And good for ya'. Mochi is not bread--you're thinking of manju, or maybe daifuku. What she likely ate was anpan. FYI.

Define “experienced.” I personally know Mounties who have been climbing 10+ years (and apparently are thus “experienced”) who I’d never ever share a rope with; they’re only still alive because they’ve been lucky. dude...i agree with most of your points but you are getting out of line on this post...back the hell off... Sorry, just a lot of bad Mountie memories; I’ve just had to rescue too many of them who were “experienced.” Have I had to rescue other climbers as well? Sure. But I’ve rescued far more Mounties than non-Mounties. In my opinion they’re a very dangerous, careless organization. There’s a lot of nice people in the Mountaineers, but being “nice” does not necessarily qualify you to be a climber or to lead people climbing. All right, I'll back off.

Yo dickhead, where in my response did I ever proclaim to be a stud? And as far as “designated” newbie climbs go…Exit 38? Exit 32 perhaps? No need to dumb down and deface easy climbs (or any climb for that matter) like YJT with “chicken” bolts. And as for this quote: I call bullshit. First of all, there is a big fucking difference between climb leaders and TAs. A TA’s failure of explanation/supervision results, generally, in less than the loss of his students’ lives. I was on a Mounties climb once where the “leader” placed no less than 20 pieces of protection on the second pitch of Ingalls Peak—took him over an hour to finish the pitch. The “experienced” leader of the group was already on top of the peak—how do you figure that Mr. “experienced” leader was supervising this poor excuse for a climber? This memory still pisses me off today as my wife was the basic student at the end of this “leaders” rope. As a basic student, you sign up for Mountaineers’ climbs believing you’re sharing a rope with a seasoned climber who has the wisdom and experience to keep you safe—many times nothing could be further from the truth. And please don’t start spraying again about what I stud I think I am; I don’t think less of the leader on Ingalls peak because he wasn’t yet a good climber, I’m just pissed that the Mountaineers dubbed him a “leader” when obviously he was not. I commend folks on their drives to become better climbers, but the time to hone those skills is not when my wife’s life is in your hands! maybe you should have done a little "due diligence" in advance of the climb and asked about the climb leaders - what their prior experience is and their reputation.

Define “experienced.” I personally know Mounties who have been climbing 10+ years (and apparently are thus “experienced”) who I’d never ever share a rope with; they’re only still alive because they’ve been lucky.

Yo dickhead, where in my response did I ever proclaim to be a stud? And as far as “designated” newbie climbs go…Exit 38? Exit 32 perhaps? No need to dumb down and deface easy climbs (or any climb for that matter) like YJT with “chicken” bolts. And as for this quote: I call bullshit. First of all, there is a big fucking difference between climb leaders and TAs. A TA’s failure of explanation/supervision results, generally, in less than the loss of his students’ lives. I was on a Mounties climb once where the “leader” placed no less than 20 pieces of protection on the second pitch of Ingalls Peak—took him over an hour to finish the pitch. The “experienced” leader of the group was already on top of the peak—how do you figure that Mr. “experienced” leader was supervising this poor excuse for a climber? This memory still pisses me off today as my wife was the basic student at the end of this “leaders” rope. As a basic student, you sign up for Mountaineers’ climbs believing you’re sharing a rope with a seasoned climber who has the wisdom and experience to keep you safe—many times nothing could be further from the truth. And please don’t start spraying again about what I stud I think I am; I don’t think less of the leader on Ingalls peak because he wasn’t yet a good climber, I’m just pissed that the Mountaineers dubbed him a “leader” when obviously he was not. I commend folks on their drives to become better climbers, but the time to hone those skills is not when my wife’s life is in your hands!

Yeah, they're doing something right--guess that's why both my mentors from when I was a member are dead now. This organization is dangerous--for the love of god stay away.

Holy fucking shit--you've got to be kidding! There’s nothing notorious or difficult about protecting Yellow Jacket tower’s final pitch. The idea of putting in a bolt to protect the final move is ridiculous! If a climber is unable to adequately protect YJT’s final 5.4 pitch then they are in over their head and should not be leading in the first place. I’ll tell you right now, if I EVER hear of a bolt place on that pitch, I’ll run up there an chop that fucking bolt so fast it’ll make your head spin. What a poor precedent placing such a bolt would create. The thought of bolting a readily protectable 5.4 (5.4!!!) move, just because an inordinate number of newbies piss themselves there, makes me want to hurl. The most difficult part of this climb is trying to find the approach trail near the Rat Creek Boulder. The reason why people frequently get hurt on YJT is because it’s accosted each year by a bunch of idiot Mountaineer (I know, I know, not all Mountaineers are idiots, true, but most that I’ve met are) newbie leaders who fancy themselves “prepared” to take on such climbing endeavors because they’ve completed the Mountaineers “basic rock leader” requirements. These newbie basic rock leaders (many of whom do not have enough climbs under their belts to be imparted with adequate climbing wisdom), get together a group of basic students (folks, many of whom, have never climbed anything), and try to knock off a climb that, given its easy 5.4 rating, they assume will be a walk in the park. This is a recipe for disaster; a bunch of bumbling goofs, half of whom have something to prove, running around YJT posturing. YJT’s easy 5.4 rating coupled with the fact that it’s an approved “basic climb” by the Mountaineers unfortunately seduces many to underestimate the climb. Again, it’s not difficult, but to the inexperienced, it’s not just another 5.4 climb at Exit 38.

Two - 00 (gray) Two - 0 (purple) Two - 1 (blue) Two - 2 (yellow) One - 3 (orange) One - 4 (red) Most cams only about 1 year old. Not interested in selling pieces separately. $400 obo

Er, good on ya, but I serioulsy doubt if your ascent was the first--nevertheless, nice job.

Sterling Marathon Half 8.8 60M Dry Green Retails for $170. Yours for $140. Sterling Marathon Half 8.8 60M Dry Yellow Retails for $170. Yours for $140. Sterling Evolution Velocity 9.8 70M Dry, Bi-Color Retails for $225. Yours for $180. Never been used--new in the bag--recent lot numbers; I just have too many ropes and need to cut down my inventory a bit.

Really? So if the Emmons route on Rainier isn't a great place to build up experience on high glaciated terrain, then what is? Baker? Phhh... the thing only tops out at 10+k. I just don’t think that a mountain as serious as Rainier should be the place, for example, where one is learning for the first time how to put on crampons. Halfway up the Interglacier isn’t the place to be showing your buddy what “self arresting” entails. Could Rainier be one’s first glacier climb? Well, if one has taken the time to practice self arresting; has been taught, and has practiced, how to use their equipment; has practiced crevasse rescue; etc., then sure, give ‘ol Rainier a shot, otherwise, stay the hell off the mountain. I’m not acting like a pretentious elitist--I’m merely pointing out the truth (and sometimes the truth can hurt). I can appreciate your desire to see people asking others politely if they can pass, but hey, this is Rainier, it ain’t some fucking tea party; it’s a fucking climb. I can understand where you’re coming from to an extent, but, frankly, I’m not asking politely or otherwise if I can pass because whatever the party’s answer, I’m passing. Sure, if it’s a particularly tenuous area, I might quickly coordinate my pass with the team ahead, but generally speaking, if you’re slower than the team behind, you should just expect to be passed—that’s just how it works. And don’t get me wrong, I was without a doubt a pencil-necked newbie at one time; and I have no problem with newbies, but I do have a problem with Joe Blow newbie leader up on Rainier pretending he has the skills to lead a bunch of other newbies up a mountain where climbing ill prepared could have severe consequences (not only for themselves but for the rescuers who now have to put their lives in danger to save Mr. Ego Trip). Ditto. I’ve been a member of Mountain Rescue for several years; climb Rainier for whatever reason you want, but don’t do so until you’re prepared because I don’t want to have to risk my neck for you unless it’s absolutely necessary. Going up there without the necessary skills is not only foolish and dangerous, it also selfish because guess who Mr. Ego’s calling as soon as he’s in over his head? Me!

There’s been a bunch of talk lately about, “Why are people getting toasted on the Emmons? Is it due to aluminum crampons?” Blah, blah, blah. There’s way too much pondering going on here, the fact is, people are getting hurt on the Emmons because they shouldn’t fucking be on the mountain because they have neither the skills nor the experience to be playing on a mountain as big as Rainier. I climbed the Emmons Monday night with the crowds—bunch of fucking idiots up there! Jackoffs with crampons falling off multiple times; people up there without pickets or other anchoring devices; people trying to summit with humongous (heavy) packs; etc. Every time I’ve climbed Rainier what strikes me is that 90% of those climbing up there shouldn’t be. On Sunday returning climbers were telling stories of the “heinous ice” the last 1000 feet up the route; and how bad the bergschrund crossing was. WTF? By utilizing even the shittiest version of the French technique, the “heinous ice” would be all but a non-issue; and the shrund crossing was the best I’ve seen in years; fucking huge stair steps! Don’t get me wrong, no one is born with the requisite mountaineering skills, such must be gained through experience, but Mount Rainier is NOT the mountain on which to gain that experience. For fuck sake, there are people at camp who couldn’t even put on crampons, let alone set up an anchor and pull their mates out of a crevasse or arrest a fall. When I climbed Monday, I passed multiple groups (actually every group--about 30 people--putting me at the head of the line). Most groups didn’t care that my team of two passed, but some did, muttering such comments as, “Those guys cut us off!” If I “cut you off,” it was because you were too fucking slow (probably due to trying to haul a 90 pound pack to the summit! One group who was angry that I “cut them off” was fucking taking a break! What?! Am I supposed to take a break with you? I didn’t do any “high side” passing of people, but I can imagine a situation where I would. Imagine the steepest part of the Emmons (wherever that might be); if there’s some fucking group of Mounties or OSATs mucking up the works with a bunch of balanced challenged folks on a line, I much the fuck rather pass you high side rather than wait for you fuckers to slip and bring me down whilst passing down slope. And to all you mother fuckers who stake tired/sick people to the route just so you can continue your summit attempt—FUCK YOU!

Lost: Silver Oakley Sunglasses When: April 23rd, 2005 Where: Icicle Canyon; around Bruce’s Boulder or Mountaineer’s Dome

What makes you think this is made of eVent?

I vote for Steve House.

Things that make Alex cool are climbs like Winter Dance, and the NE Face of Great Trango Tower, and the fact that he was a super nice guy. The fact that he may have been able to climb 5.13 doesn’t amount to shit as far as making his “great.” Both Alex and Fred were/are pioneers so I don’t find the comparison difficult.

In my experience XCR is quite durable (e.g., tried to skewer myself with an ice tool a couple of years ago; the XCR fabric did not puncture when, with significant force, the tool’s pick hit my jacket). The eVent looks less durable, but so far I’ve had no problems with it. I have a tent constructed of eVent fabric--in some significant storms, the fabric has proven bomber. If I were going to take a “lighter, designated rain jacket” I’d use this one: http://promountainsports.com/graphics/id-event-rainjacket.jpg Integral Designs eVENT Rain Jacket Weight: 9.5 oz (270 g) Packed Size: 4" x 8" x 2"

Gore-tex works just fine IMHO; it’s just that most people don’t use it correctly. During intense aerobic activity one is probably sweating at a rate greater than can be efficiently vented though the material; this is why you’ll find almost all Gore-tex (or other PTFE laminate) garments constructed with pit-zips or other zippered vents. If you’re sweating your ass off, open the vents or take off the garment. To state that Gore-tex is “heavy” is too much of a generalization—there are many styles of Gore-tex, some of which are particularly light (e.g., the “stretch” Gore-tex that Patagonia uses in their “Stretch Element” line of clothing is particularly nice; and, incidentally, more breathable than the XCR style Gore-tex). My new favorite material is the eVent—waterproof, light, durable, and the most breathable laminate of any I’ve tried to date. I’ve found this material to vent particularly well even during moderate aerobic activity. And as for Bogen’s observation that wpb fabric will be torn to shreds after sliding down a scree slope; I can only say “true”, but if you’re sliding down scree slopes on a regular basis, you’ve got more serious things to things to worry about than whether or not your clothing’s going to rip. Anyways, for me, I’d prefer a nice light eVent or Gore-tex jacket to one slathered in nixwax.

IMHO a mountaineer experienced enough to safely attempt Liberty Ridge would not have to ask if rock fall is less frequent before the sun comes up.

Mine are all gone.