Jens Posted November 2, 2002 Share Posted November 2, 2002 When I mention to others about how far behind the times we are in WA with new steep mixed ice routes, people agree. All we seem to want around here are the thunker ice routes. Sean Isaac told me about a dude who had developed an entire new area up by Mount Baker that had lots of routes up to M8. I had never heard the dude's name before. Anybody know the details? Where? This guy is keeping pretty mum. I'll stay off his projects. _______________________________ We will never have what it takes to be great ice climbing destination area. Instead, mixed climbed could be awesome here in the Cascades. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freeclimb9 Posted November 2, 2002 Share Posted November 2, 2002 and the dude's name is . . . Oliver Moon? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bolt_clipper Posted November 2, 2002 Share Posted November 2, 2002 Speaking of mixed climbing, have any of you read the new Climbing magazine. The article on mixed climbing is scary. The line between aid and free is becoming so jumbled it is scary. Sure, ice can't be climbed without tools, so in a sense it is aid climbing, but I see a huge difference between hanging on to ice tools and sitting on them to rest. Maybe we will soon be able to clip our harnesses directly to the tool and still be able to call it free! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thelawgoddess Posted November 2, 2002 Share Posted November 2, 2002 quote: Originally posted by bolt clipper: Maybe we will soon be able to clip our harnesses directly to the tool and still be able to call it free! some dudes already hook their tools onto their harnesses to milk a rest. i don't think that aspect alone will make something verge on not being "free" or not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jens Posted November 2, 2002 Author Share Posted November 2, 2002 I haven't read the article since I am a rock and ice subscriber. I completely disagree. I f anything, ice and mixed climbing is more pure and free than it used to be. Not that I have been ice climbing that long, but when I got into it, if you clipped a sling from your tools to your harness and hung to place screws it was still "legit". that practice has gone to the wayside quite some time ago. Also boltclipper, many of us are chosing to go leashless. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cj001f Posted November 2, 2002 Share Posted November 2, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Jens: When I mention to others about how far behind the times we are in WA with new steep mixed ice routes, people agree. All we seem to want around here are the thunker ice routes. Sean Isaac told me about a dude who had developed an entire new area up by Mount Baker that had lots of routes up to M8. I had never heard the dude's name before. Anybody know the details? Where? This guy is keeping pretty mum. I'll stay off his projects. I have no personal knowledge, but Tim Matsui's site has pictures of a couple people climbing Gorilla Bar - M8 at the Toolshed mixed area near Baker. www.timmatsui.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thelawgoddess Posted November 2, 2002 Share Posted November 2, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Jens: Also boltclipper, many of us are chosing to go leashless. yeeeeeah, baby!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lambone Posted November 2, 2002 Share Posted November 2, 2002 Jens, Dale Remsberg and freinds from Feathered Friends developed a few new mixed lines up near Pandome falls last winter. I'm sure the guys at FF would be happy to give you the info. Anybody wanna go scope out the potential for a line on Salt'n Pepper with me this year? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lambone Posted November 2, 2002 Share Posted November 2, 2002 oopps, yeah cjoof1 had it right. matsui's web site has a good photo on it. and that is alex's photo of salt'n pepper... [ 11-01-2002, 06:11 PM: Message edited by: Lambone ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jason_Martin Posted November 2, 2002 Share Posted November 2, 2002 Alex and I don't have any info on the "Toolshed" yet. Any beta would be appreciated. Jason: j_dougie@yahoo.com Alex: wastateice@yahoo.com Jason [ 11-01-2002, 06:36 PM: Message edited by: Jason Martin ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted November 2, 2002 Share Posted November 2, 2002 two things: the mixed stuff: is Dale I believe, and he hasnt been able to get us the info, so far. If there is someone else we could talk to that would be great, but we also want to respect it if people dont want to share the info.. salt and pepper: it IS mixed, but dont expect much for pro. Its 4th class moves on garbage up the left side. #3 camalot protects the moves after the crux, but at the crux you have pins and mud...great route though! Alex [ 11-01-2002, 06:41 PM: Message edited by: Alex ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ade Posted November 2, 2002 Share Posted November 2, 2002 Aren't there a whole bunch of lines next to and around Pandome falls? I thought someone mentioned these last year. I was up doing Pandome last year and there seemed to be some drips off to the right. See Baker Ice topic from last year. If it's been bolted for mixed climbing it'll be pretty obvious. The real issue with mixed climbing in the PNW is getting it cold enough. Warm, thin, delam'ed ice is not a happy place to be. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul_detrick Posted November 2, 2002 Share Posted November 2, 2002 Lambone are you thinking new line? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lambone Posted November 2, 2002 Share Posted November 2, 2002 yep, new line...a bit more direct...with big fat bolts. I've seen mixed routes in Hyalite with two bolts equalized in cobbles stuck in frozen mud, so sprayers need not bother trying to tell me the rock isn't good enough in Banks. I'm not trying to keep the "project" a secret, cause if someone wants to do it first...have at it, bolting steep lines is a pain in the ass anyway. [ 11-02-2002, 01:08 AM: Message edited by: Lambone ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daler Posted November 2, 2002 Share Posted November 2, 2002 Jens There are three developed mixed routes at the Tool Shed. If you walk about 100 yards to the right of Pan Dome there is a nice gully of ice (Up to grade 4+ early season grade 3 late season) This is call Tabasco Kidd with a two bolt achor up at the left. From this there is a TR problem with a one bolt directional directly to the left. Many Options. Left of this route is Gorilla Bar M8 with 6 bolts. Ice some years but mostly a dry tooling route to prep for the Rockies. Roger S. Snagged the first on this just minute before Myself and me bud Derik sent. He respected the name we gave it. Thanks Roj. Again to the left is the Anialator M7+ WI 6 with bolts all the way. I bagged the first on this one and I think only Roger has repeated( Way fun to see him whip off the top trying to beat me to it, I don't mean fun seeing him fail just fun watching him "given her hell!!! Fuck yeah!!! All the routes and route potential are short but a great start to WA mixed scene. There is potential at other areas for dozens of new mixed routes. Keep with it boys and girls as I have moved to CO to climb more and harder. Although I will lurk the site as the Cascades are dear to my heart. Dale Ps I'll be at the toolshed on Dec 5 to try and bag a couple of more. Passing through on my way to Canadian Rockies. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lambone Posted November 4, 2002 Share Posted November 4, 2002 right on Dale, hope life is good in CO, kick some ass down there! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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