crazyjizzy Posted October 27, 2002 Posted October 27, 2002 I just recieved the latest AAJ, and there was a lengthy article about a new route on Baffin Island by Jim Beyer. Is this guy totally nuts or what? He has a three year old, and I can't think that she could have a more messed up dad. Why did he reproduce? He appartently has multiple close calls with death, and doesn't care about dying. He is more Twight than Twight. Quote
layton Posted October 27, 2002 Posted October 27, 2002 Is he the dude the put up the A5c route solo that took several years to do and may be the world's hardest route? If so...jesus chirst almighty! Quote
jordop Posted October 28, 2002 Posted October 28, 2002 I only clicked on this topic because I thought it was about Scotch, or maybe Scotch and Asprin Quote
willstrickland Posted October 28, 2002 Posted October 28, 2002 Jim is another breed. Met him in the valley this summer after he finished up some new pitches on the Capt near Mescalito. If you know anything about the routes he put up in the Fishers (e.g. Death of American Democracy) you'd know his rep. He's really a soft-spoken, low key sort of dude, and tends to do most of his serious stuff solo. And this guy's serious stuff is SERIOUS. He was on that route in the valley for over a week if I remember right, and if you go up there for the 2nd ascent, don't plan on cheap-sticking into the fixed heads...the rumour mill has it that he duct-taped the head loops shut to prevent a cheap repeat. Quote
erik Posted October 28, 2002 Posted October 28, 2002 GRASSHOPPER ZION UTAH 5.9 3" 'HAND' CRACK DEATH SCAREY!!! Quote
Dru Posted October 28, 2002 Posted October 28, 2002 his "free" ascent was probably protected with a jumar on a TR or other questionable practice (see Child profile in Mixed Emotions book) Quote
chelle Posted October 28, 2002 Posted October 28, 2002 Jim's a really cool guy. I climbed with him when I was down there this fall. He's solid. You wouldn't know who he was if you didn't already know his rep. Unlike a lot of valley climbers, he doesn't feel the need to be a spraylord. Crazyjz -Just because he likes to push the limit, why does that make him crazy or irresponsible? Climbing is dangerous. Particularly the stuff he does. If he accepts the risks, what's wrong with it. Will - once he went up the wall he was on his new route for 23 days, solo. Hauled over 400 lbs of gear with him. Quote
freeclimb9 Posted October 28, 2002 Posted October 28, 2002 dude has done many routes in the Tetons, too. Quote
Dru Posted October 28, 2002 Posted October 28, 2002 "i can hang on bolts and still call it a redpoint cause the bolts are hand drilled" - Beyer quote in last years AAJ. Quote
Bronco Posted October 28, 2002 Posted October 28, 2002 quote: Originally posted by crazyjz: I just recieved the latest AAJ, and there was a lengthy article about a new route on Baffin Island by Jim Beyer. Is this guy totally nuts or what? He has a three year old, and I can't think that she could have a more messed up dad. Why did he reproduce? He appartently has multiple close calls with death, and doesn't care about dying. He is more Twight than Twight. You sound a little jealous ( God knows I am) As a father I see your point, but, really who's to say what's acceptable risk for someone else. I know people who think I am an irresponsible father for climbing at all and I am climb like a wus! Quote
David_Parker Posted October 28, 2002 Posted October 28, 2002 quote: Originally posted by ehmmic: Crazyjz -Just because he likes to push the limit, why does that make him crazy or irresponsible? Climbing is dangerous. Particularly the stuff he does. If he accepts the risks, what's wrong with it. Michelle, until you have a child of your own, you'll never know. Easy to sympathize, impossible to empathize. Quote
chelle Posted October 28, 2002 Posted October 28, 2002 quote: Originally posted by David Parker: Michelle, until you have a child of your own, you'll never know. Easy to sympathize, impossible to empathize. We've been down this road before... Maybe that's true, but I don't think it's up to any of us to judge other people's comfort with risk. He's living his life the way he wants to and I admire people who do that whether or not I personally agree with or aspire to their style. [ 10-28-2002, 02:24 PM: Message edited by: ehmmic ] Quote
crazyjizzy Posted October 31, 2002 Author Posted October 31, 2002 I just talked to my good friend "The Rat", and he reminded me of Jim Beyer's article on new routes in the Tetons in the 2001 AAJ. Anger management, the police, and parole officers play an important part. In fact, he needed his PO's permission to go on a climbing trip. I know my many shortcomings, and am glad that I will not be resposible for a little shitter. I just wonder why wackos reproduce. As an aside, when something as conservative and staid as the AAJ prints articles like this, it makes the recent CC thread "Irresponsibe posts" seem stupid and pointless. If you are worried that teens are going to read CC and take up third classing, then they are going to read the AAJ and become aid psychos. [ 10-31-2002, 06:01 PM: Message edited by: crazyjz ] Quote
texplorer Posted October 31, 2002 Posted October 31, 2002 I can see rock and ice now . . . . Jimmy Beyer puts up way heinous sick new line. A7+ sitstart?????? I remember that dude, he was up on el cap for weeks this spring. Quote
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