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Posted

I see that in boulder prob's as well, but I was referring to lead climbs. But when you're leading in the gym there's frequently a good chance of cratering b /c the routes are short and not established intelligently.

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Posted

Hmm, most gyms are too well protected, if anything. We got a new route setter just this year that is setting some riskier ones, trying to traverse and shit to make the routes longer and more interesting. I end up skipping clips fairly often, but I understand most gyms would freak out about that.

 

To be honest, I like to climb in a gym where there is a little risk involved...

 

 

As far as TRing, I HATE reclipping the bloody directional draws on the overhangs on the way down, I'd rather lead it. And, to reiterate, it is a waay better exercise.

Posted (edited)

The funny thing is it isn't the sporto/gyming climbing types who fall the lead test but the "hard" crusty mountain types because they don't think about back clipping, even when you remind them

 

and gym climbing is what it is, sometimes fun sometimes not but lets spray about how we are to cool for it

Edited by eric8
Posted

fucking backclipped my first draw (actually, i clipped it properly, but the draw was twisted when i clipped it, so the end-result was a backclip)

 

that's what i get for not leading a sport route since 2002

 

... so you didn't clip it properly. Because those sport clip-ups are soooo complicated, right? Now you see why we leave the draws hanging for redpoint burns.

 

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