gulper Posted January 20, 2005 Posted January 20, 2005 I've been planning a trip to Lillooet for weeks, and when the time finally came, the weather turned terrible . So I wonder: is there any point of driving to Lillooet this weekend? What are the chances of any ice still standing? Quote
riptorn Posted January 20, 2005 Posted January 20, 2005 +3, been raining for the past four days,supposed to keep raining, freezing level around 2000m means you are most likely SOL Quote
JayB Posted January 20, 2005 Posted January 20, 2005 Actually - although I am not the authority I imagine the rambling gulley-type routes will still be around - but the avy hazard on the said routes might take these off of the menu as well. Only one way to find out for sure... Quote
riptorn Posted January 20, 2005 Posted January 20, 2005 If one enjoys climbing an avy-prone gully in the rain then the future isnt quite so bleak at all!! you first Quote
Dru Posted January 20, 2005 Posted January 20, 2005 good weekend to practice nailing on a classic free route. no one will be around to catch you. Quote
jmace Posted January 21, 2005 Posted January 21, 2005 I was thinking, this would be a good time to take up kayaking, Warm temps, probably be able to run some creeks that never have enough water in them to kayak. Â any want to take me? Quote
JayB Posted January 21, 2005 Posted January 21, 2005 I came to this conclusion about two years ago. Plenty of boats available on Craig's list, rolling sessions and intro course available through the WKC. Â I just went out with friends and got worked - but if you don't know any boaters the course route might be the way to go. Quote
Dru Posted January 21, 2005 Posted January 21, 2005 Temps have been +2 to +5 in the last 2 days. Although the forecast is for rain I bet you might be able to find wet ice to climb high up the Duffy, like at the Rambles. But if you aren't already locked into going this would not be the weekend to go. Not to mention with the minor hockey tournament in townthis weekend you would not be able to get a hotel room in town either. Â I bet Night N Gale is in too together with a big fat avvy hazard and potential rockfall on your car driving up Road 40 to get there. Quote
gulper Posted January 21, 2005 Author Posted January 21, 2005 I had a room booked a long time ago, but it doesn't matter any more ... I have canceled the trip . Â Thanks to all for the replies! Quote
Ade Posted January 22, 2005 Posted January 22, 2005 I was thinking, this would be a good time to take up kayaking, Warm temps, probably be able to run some creeks that never have enough water in them to kayak. any want to take me? What's wrong with you?! This weekend is for sitting in the dark, listening to Puppy while sharpening your tools. All the while sinking deeper in to a mire of self loathing. Quote
riptorn Posted January 22, 2005 Posted January 22, 2005 went for a quick spin up the duffey to have a look. all the usual suspects are still hangin in there but are suffering to one degree or another. loose lady and the rambles are faring the best and still looked pretty good. it was interesting along the stretch of road between Carlsberg and the rambles in places where the road is relatively close in proximity and elevation to the river there were large chunks of ice nearly on the road and scattered through the bush. I guesse an ice jam let go. some reasonable temps fairly soon and it shouldnt take to long for things to get back in shape. Quote
Alpinfox Posted January 24, 2005 Posted January 24, 2005 Â Did anyone climb anything in Lillooet this past weekend? Quote
Dru Posted January 24, 2005 Posted January 24, 2005 It's roasting in Lillooet right now...has gone from +2C to +12C in the last few hours as the new warm front comes through Quote
jmace Posted January 24, 2005 Posted January 24, 2005 lytton busted a temp record for today set in 1968, they are poised to break the all time highest temp in jan ever today. Which is 15.0 set in 1971/30 Quote
Dru Posted January 24, 2005 Posted January 24, 2005 maybe it's time for a first "winter" ascent of Yellow Brick Road Quote
LYleK Posted January 25, 2005 Posted January 25, 2005 (edited) There were three parties there Saturday (Jan 22); a group of 3 arrived and left early, another party of 2 from WA (white Toyota 2wd p/u). Â We were the 2nd group in, the first was already setting up in the Dihedral area so we roped up for IcyBC. There was a gusher about halfway up the first pitch that was pouring down on/ spraying the lower half. By the time I had my second axe in I was already soaked so backed off and came in through the top of Torn Fish Lips. Ice was thick and plastic throughout. 2nd pitch was fat and dry, third pitch is HUGE all the way across and all the upper pitches are formed fat to the top (see pic). IcyBC in WI4 condition. Â Climbed Body Shop next, ducked in behind the pillar at mid-height for natural pro, it was dripping a bit on the lower half, upper-half dry. Again ice stellar and fat, light WI5'ish. Â Deeping Wall in v. cool shape, consolidated flow ice, sticky plastic WI4. The left side is flowing water leaving the middle part in the pic fairly dry. There's dead-fall across the normal exit left at the top so climbed out right. Â The new route far left is in great shape, as is Dales and the Dihedral. Waite for Spring and the new farmed lines are climbable but were running pretty good and eroding fast. Deeping Wall as per the pic. No Deductible bolts are iced in, but not thick enough for screws. As per above, all the top pitches are FAT. Â It'll last a week or two in this condition but will be gone quickly if we don't get some cold weather. Take gortex. Â 3rd Pitch IcyBC Edited January 25, 2005 by LYleK Quote
LYleK Posted January 25, 2005 Posted January 25, 2005 Damn that look wet  Very, I wrung a half-cup of water out of my gloves after Deeping. I'm a big fan of spring ice climbing conditions though, you just can't go wrong; every placement sticks, there's no shattering or breakage, feet are solid, every screw threads first try and feels good. The suffer factor is way down. It's just that narrow window before it becomes slush, for me it's the ice climbing equivalent of waist-deep powder You do have batten-down the gortex, though. Quote
Zoran Posted January 25, 2005 Posted January 25, 2005 Excellent! Some of us tought nothing is available because was warm in the city. They were wrong. You did great work. I see that you like to climb in any conditions, instead sitting at home and crying to friends that season is over. Thank you for the report. Quote
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