Alpiners Anonymous: PDX dry tool night

[billcoe]

see you there, I only have 1 rope.

[billcoe]

In lieu of Sean jumping on ths story: I'll start if off by saying that Sean says be careful and pay attention when over by Birds of Paradise and points beyone to the West. Appears that the top might (thats MIGHT) be showing some movement after all. OMFG RUN!

 

Sean?

 

Bueller?

 

B-UUU-LLL-LLLLLL-E-R?

[nat]

I drove out to Carver today with my daughter, we found a bunch of boulders and the two big walls, but I don't know how to correlate this with what I saw.

 

I parked at the Church parking lot, walked through the gate along the short gravel road, cut through the woods to the gravel parking lot of the newish-looking restaurant, walked directly up to the restaurant, then about-faced and boom! there were the rocks. We hiked up a little trail to find the two main walls, and the disclaimer sign, and then climbed boulders on the downhill slope (downhill to the parking lot) from the big walls.

 

What area was I climbing in? How do you get to the other areas in the above map? I saw that the cliff-front trail headed back in the direction of the church, but we did not go all the way along it.

 

It was a byootiful day, not too hot in the trees, had the whole place to ourselves.

 

Anybody wanna show me around or explain more?

[Drederek]

Google Carver climbing club !

[nat]

Duh, dude! I'm trying to figure out which boulder field I was in and where the walls are in relation to the other fields. The Carver maps online are fine if you know the position of the fields to the rest of the area, but I do not. Have you actually been to Carver, Duke?

[Drederek]

Not bouldering (shudder!). I guess the part I latched onto was the part about PRG answering questions and whatnot but I haven't been down there in years so have no idea if they are as helpful as the one site indicated. GL!

[billcoe]

Well, the inevitable occured and A single chain was stolen (unless someone just borrowed it and will be returning it later) on one of the new routes on Bill's Buttress.

 

That's correct, just one of them is gone and the other was un-molested. The stud is left in good condition too.

 

Anyone know if that constitutes a record? It was there like 3 months or so.

 

Maybe the access fund will find it down below during the cleanup.

 

Anyhow, I have more chain, and am strategising on the chain re-installation installation. Loctite red, covering it with that epoxy putty (same stuff Joe has been using on Beacon) except filled with tungsten carbide bb's for protection should do it.

 

As this was a new route, and not a retro-bolt of a route that had not previously had bolts for the last 30 years like some of the others, I had my hopes......sigh...nevermind.

 

BTW, cleaned some more of the dirt off the center-right route tonight and tried to hit the location where the big slab had peeled (after having been fairly well cleaned by Sean and I previosuly!) and it had left dirt 4 inches thick (got most but it was sort of out of the way). There looks to be a great face route in between those routes if anyone wants to bolt it up and crank it - have at it.

 

Buy cheap hangers.

 

Gear notes to self; next time bring a trash back for the base -ugh.

 

Interesting to note that there is a "Single" hanger taken off of AC-DC as well on Video Bluff a few months ago. The other one was left alone.

[markd]

bill - that is ridiculous that someone would remove your hardware. you'd think anyone trying to "clean up the butte" would notice all the trash as a bigger eyesore than bolts.

 

do these choppers have names? i'm sure they're proud of what they did.

[billcoe]

Even more interesting is that they only took 1 of the 2 chains.

[markd]

was the other chain harder to reach?

[billcoe]

No, it is on top, very easy to access, right next to the other one. Maybe 10-12" away.

 

[fheimerd]

All my partners bailed.

Is it my belay style?

I had at least one hand on the rope most of the time.

Anybody want to get out tomorrow afternoon. Anytime after 4:00. Butte, Broughton, Beacon?

[billcoe]

I could use some climbing after work as long as you're gonna keep your brake hand on the rope.

 

Can't make it till 5:30 or so though. What do you want to get on Frank, you get there first and you get to choose.

 

If thats too late, no worries, I'll go boulder. It's all good.

[fheimerd]

Sounds good, look for me over a blackberry jam arond 5:30

 

I'll bring a gri-gri

[billcoe]

Ok! sounds good.

[hemp22]

Reminder: Broughton's adopt-a-crag is tomorrow (Sunday)

 

Link to details

[Farrgo]

Anyone want to climb today? Beacon, Ozone, Broughton, anywhere?

[aradia]

Who's up for tuesday at the butte? (I'm looking at you, Bill!)

[billcoe]

I need to spend the week getting organized, so if I get out, it will be for banging out a few boulder moves.

 

Ujahn just called and might get out tonight. He thought White Rabbit would be good for him, maybe you can set up that and "You Lunge, you Plunge, Sucker" just to the right as you look down from the top, with the same rope.

 

That has real sweet Sean-like face climbing which can be done several ways do as to avoid boredom on it.

Edited September 12, 2006 by billcoe

[Lix]

Any takers for some mid-week Beacon action? Could stay closer as well.

[Farrgo]

What day I could Tomorrow afternoon or Tuesday or Thursday mornings?

[Lix]

Looks rainy tomorrow and tuesday. What time can you get out until?

[Farrgo]

I can stay out late, yep parents just pushed the ol' curfew back to 9 o'clock! But, judging by this morning it looks, um, daunting to say the least. Mabey later in the week.

[John Frieh]

Almost 2 years and 50 pages later...

 

[fheimerd]

anybody out at the butte around 4?