Lix

Something called a CUA (Conditional Use A-?) lets companies like the Institute and other folks run a trip or two per year on Rainier. So it can be legal . . . I think they have to do the Emmons or the Kautz. No DC/Ingraham. Yes, trips on Rainier sell out quick for all three companies. Bucket list folk . . . they generally all get their assses handed to them, even when they do summit. They like the cycle as they generally have little to no mountain experience whatsoever (but think Rainier is their gateway to the Seven Summits!). . .

What about a day trip on the Coleman Headwall Fri? Temps should be colder then they've been for a bit.

One day mission. Obviously, freezing levels may be an issue for the Coleman Headwall . . . . Comfortable climbing ice with skis on your back? Out of contact Thursday morning through Saturday afternoon but will get back as soon as I can.

Want to do a lap up zig zag and then a few of the other routes off of snag ledge. Morning to avoid getting sizzled up on the wall. Coming from B'ham Lee 801.913.0668

Down in the area for work and looking to get out this one day only . . . Out of cell contact starting on Sunday morning till the morning of the 1st so if you want to climb hit me up now and be ready to not bail. Temps not too hot next week as of now . .

Found on May 14th . . .

So if the Twin Lakes Rd is open to about 2 miles - is the best approach to SSW facing Larrabee over Gold Run Pass or working up through Twin Lakes/Winchester/Low Pass/High Pass? Going up through Winchester seems maybe more direct, but the contouring required to keep from doing a bunch of up and down seems like a bigger pain than just straight up dropping into upper Tomyhoi Creek from Gold Run and traversing at a lower elevation. On the other hand, actually climbing Larrabee by its SE ridge from High Pass seems like the easiest line of ascent . . . Thoughts? Looks like a great fall line run into Tomyhoi Cr w/ just under 3000' of vert . . .

Road ez driving to MM 7 (about 3200') on FS Rd 39 - 20 min to the TH. When the next 300' of snow melts out it'll be drivable to where the other road (FS Rd 36?) branches off. Basically the trailhead . . . Grouse Creek still good shape and fast, but need to put the boards over the shoulder for a good 20 min or so through the trees. Coleman Glacier very filled in, obviously. Wanted to summit but winds strong enough to blow one over convinced me to turn around @ 9200'. Good turns on the Coleman on a sun softened crust at 1100. C-H route on Colfax looking plenty fat . . . takers?

Larrabee shoulder approach - copy. I don't particularly love alders. Never been there before, thought there might be enough snow on the approach to be a snowy hwy. Thanks for the info . . .

G - how much further if you want to go to the cirque on the n'ly aspects behind larrabee/pleiades? And who is the contact for the key?

So what's the story on this road? Hunting around online shows it's most likely gated, but is public access still allowed into the drainage or will the Canadian army blow me up? If public access is good to go, how far to the end of the road on foot? Can't gauge dist from the online maps of the area I've found . . Cheers

Looking for keen skiers who want to ski and climb all sorts of lines on Baker, Shuksan and beyond (climb N ridge/ski C Headwall maybe? Things like that.) Showing up from UT in a few days with fairly open schedule through mid-late May. Based in B-ham. Cheers

The subject speaks for itself. Thanks for your reply . . .

No Lake Ann TH - but oddly enough that's where we were when we realized it was missing. BB trailhead on July 20th-ish

Somehere between the Boston Basin 5400' camp and the trailhead, or maybe somewhere else. Fell off pack or is in the bushes on the side of the road. Pleez help!

Is that the Darin of Prarie Walls fame, out of the climbing mecca of Rochester?

Looks like a good ski hill to me - too bad my ACL surgery is the 22nd. Have fun up there this summer.

It's nice to see this post didn't lanquish in some backwater. Kind of lost interest due a dinged up knee skiing off a windslad on my last day in the Wasatch. No big lines in the Cascades this year - pity with the snowpack and all. Have fun up there. The guy I'm reffering to most definitely skied the CH in the late 80's or early 90's. After spending roughly 40 days on that mountain over the course of the past summer, there's no doubt I recognized the big crack he's skiing through as the one high on the Headwall (from a photo seen at his home - taken of him from the galcier below). Who knows? Maybe climatic and glacial conditions around the time of his descent were such that it would be considered a pretty chill run nowadays. He said the only crux was dealing with shallow snow over ice high up in a few palces. After the crack he said it was pretty cruiser skiing with no more cruxes heading skiers right. He also skied it in July. Maybe he was a really talented skier doing sick shit before anybody really cared about that sort of thing. He's got more noteworthy descents from that time period in the Cascades. Maybe I'll get him to talk about them one day. Cheers

Anybody seen the CH in the past few weeks? Maybe even have a photo? Looking to repeat one of my bosses ski descents from the late 80's. Everything I've googled on skiing this line has shown a descent route more towards the Roman Nose and then cutting skiers right about 800' feet down or so. The OG took it right from the top down the upper headwall (the part that makes you want to ski the line anyway). He reported minimal ice and getting through the top crack was trivial. He showed me a picture taken by his wife from the glacier below as he skied solo. Looked pretty straight forward though forshortened. He also skied it in July. Hmmm . . . Now that crack seems to be the prime reason folks have been starting from atop the RN. With this seasons deep pack and last summers cool temps, would that crack be as filled in as it's going to get?

I believe I have the said camera in my possession after descending the W. Ridge yesterday. I don't have a computer so I don't get online very often. Lee 801.913.0668 I'm in L-worth till thurs pm and working on the bakerhorn fri thru sunday. I work out of Bellingham - for your buddies info when he needs to obtain the said camera

Hey - I'm moving up to Bellingham to work for the summer with a local guiding establishment and need a place to stay . . . sort of. Not really looking to move into a place full time as I'll either be out working or out climbing - probably around 6 nights a month in town from late May through September. If you have any extra space for a person who owns little and is even more low key and want to get some extra $$$ towards your rent or mortgage, get in touch and we'll talk. Lee

I could do a tues pm at beacon. Available any time.

Looks rainy tomorrow and tuesday. What time can you get out until?

Any takers for some mid-week Beacon action? Could stay closer as well.

Climbed it Aug 26th or so - before it snowed and then got really hot again. The best bet for an idea of conditions is www.acmg.ca/mcr for the full mountain conditions summary and the guide submissions (basically what mckay posts but in a more concentrated form). Great route and I heard after the fact the gully step is icier this year than others, but is not a simple steep ice step. About 2 bodylengths of mixed climbing quite challenging for someone who skis all winter. Fortunately there is a decent pin(s)? at the crux to yard/hang on if you can't come up with anything else and you clip your left tool to your harness and then can't get it off when you realize the good holds on that side are all iced up. Heard the N. Face to North Ridge option is quite nice this year with a couple foot wide strip of ice in the back of a chimney. good luck up there. While you're up there, climb Kahl Wall on Yam. Best rock I saw up there this summer and not any scarier than the 5.8's.