[TR] Beacon Rock- Young Warriors 12/18/2004

[JosephH]

Climb: Beacon Rock-Young Warriors

 

Difficulty: 5.9

 

Date of Climb: 12/18/2004

 

Description:

 

p1: It starts a bit before the trail meets the corner down by the RR tracks; Look for a short, steep little side trail that forks off the main trail with an upsidedown "Y" with a rock in the middle of it and a small tree on the left side leading to a little platform - the route starts off towards the left side of it angling up and a bit left.

 

p2: At the top of the first pitch you'll get to a set of chains - the route goes straight left there around a block. You'll actually be probably be better off belaying from the ledge left of the chains on the other side of a large block. It then goes left and up towards an obvious shallow "A" shaped feature and meets the SE Corner route above that. But go straight right where it meets the SE Corner along a 1 foot ledge to a belay station - do not go up the the SE Corner ledge with the tree.

 

[Caveat: This block is potentially loose, or someday will likely be, do not yard on it in any way! Use it very gently to just step around it to the ledge.]

 

[Note: Some folks run these first two pitches together, but I wouldn't recommened it for anyone going up it their first time.]

 

p3: Go straight up from the belay and just keep going. As you top out on the third pitch do not stop at the first arete hump/ledge you get to (and especially do not go down the other side) - instead continue back and up (west/left) 40 feet or so to the next higher ledge. You'll know you're on the right ledge because it is quite posh and has a ratty old square hanger to welcome you and a couple of hidden pins in the wall towards the back (your next belay). You'll probably want a sixty meter rope on this route because of this pitch. If it's windy be prepared to signal through the rope.

 

p4: The next pitch goes out and up the obvious arete that forms the back end of the ledge. Enjoy. You may at one point about halfway up this pitch see some large old right angle anchors - they are not on YW - and if they aren't off to your left if you do see them you are off route. The pitch ends up over a slab and up a shallow dihedral to a ledge. Set up anchors with pro.

 

[Note (p4): the route does not go up the either the big dihedral at the right (east) end of the ledge or the very back corner - again it goes out and up left (south) to get up on the spine of the arete and then straight up.]

 

p5: The route goes right from here up a ramp to about four feet short of the arete and then up and back left a bit. Climb a short distance up and over into a [indistinct, small] notch in the rocks at the base of a long ramp heading up to the trees. Stop in that notch and belay (or can also bail of this pitch and climb up around to the left arriving at the same place as well).

 

[Note (p5): Oh, and no doubt Jim Opdyke would have me remind you to do the final fun slab move to the left to finish this short pitch, rather than the imminent cop on the arete to the right...]

 

p6: Go up the ramp and when you run out of obvious good rock, stop! Bring up your partner, unrope, and walk off up and right through a bit of talus to what will become a small but obvious trail up through the trees to the trail railing. If it is really blowing east winds and you decide to either climb up the ramp with a belay, or 4th class it trailing the rope without a belay, be sure and put in a couple of pieces of pro on the ramp to keep the rope from blowing off the left edge making life very unhappy for your second.

 

[Note (p6): If you somehow keep climbing up past the ramp in a straight line and find yourself surrounded by trees, you've gone too far - stop immediately, bring up your partner, and head 45 degrees up and right to the trail and get away from the edge.]

 

[Caveats: If you develop any interest in bailing from the route you should do it either at the top of the first or second pitches (or on the second by going up to the SE Corner tree ledge) - after that you are better off topping out.

 

Depending on when you start and your experience level, this time of year (winter) you may want to bring headlamps just in case, though you shouldn't really need them.

 

As with any route at Beacon, even though the route is quite clean, be particularly cognizant of both your physical movements and rope handling/travel to prevent rock fall at ledges, at the top, or anywhere you happen to spot loose gravelly rock.]

 

P.S. You can rope solo the route in three very full 60 meter pitches, but I'd recommend breaking them up unless you are familiar and comfortable with the route.

 

Gear Notes:

 

Bring a trad rack - stoppers and cams.

[dberdinka]

So is it 5.5 or 5.12 ?

[layton]

10b x

[JosephH]

dberdinka,

 

Sorry about not posting the rating it was in the link from another post...

 

Michael is just having some fun with you - it's a 5.9. Actually a lot of 5.8 with some 5.9 moves throughout - but it is technical here and there, with a lot of subtleties associated with many of the moves and the first time through it will likely feel more like a lot of 5.9 with some 5.10+ moves...

[ivan]

[quote

 

[Note (p5): Oh, and no doubt Jim Opdyke would have me remind you

 

shit, jim went nuts this summer when he heard young warriors had even made it into the portland rock guide...and i think saying he's suspicious of the internet is kinda like saying the palestinians aren't certain if they can trust sharon.

[wdietsch]

..and i think saying he's suspicious of the internet is kinda like saying the palestinians aren't certain if they can trust sharon.

 

[iain]

Do they have wifi at grassy ledges yet?

 

Does he and his roommate share that cave at the base?

[JosephH]

I should add that I typically do the first pitch with pro not clipping the bolts which, with all due respect for the FA party (who bolted it for community service), aren't really necessary. That said, the pro is small in spots so small, brassy wires and/or ball nuts come in handy.

[castlecrag]

[Note (p4): the route does not go up the either the big dihedral at the right (east) end of the ledge or the very back corner - again it goes out and up left (south) to get up on the spine of the arete and then straight up.]

 

I found out first hand yesterday that going up the east edge of the ledge was a no no. A couple hours and 2 pitchs later after having to pull thru on some roofs, we made it to the tree below the SE corner finish. The right dihedral kept leading me right. There were a few rusty pitons along the way, so I know there had been someone up the "route" before. It was some dirty, strenuous climbing on the right. I wish I had read the TR before venturing up!

 

The second pitch is amazing though!

[ivan]

climbed this today w/ jeff - rocks still - found 2 tree frogs and a bat in cracks along the way...thanx again to the 3 saints for getting the beacon blazing 'gain!

[JosephH]

The very large, loose block in the description of pitch 2 above was cleaned off the route late last fall. You should belay pitch 2 from about 10 feet directly left of the pitch one anchor.

 

Pitch 3 ends at nice grassy alcove below and left of a large crescent feature that looks like it could be the next pitch - if you get to the base of a large crescent feature, don't go up it the anchors and the continuation of the route are right in front of you on the ledge you are standing on. You'll know you've arrived as there will be an old rectangular hanger right in front of your face on the east end of the ledge as you come up to it.

[castlecrag]

We went right at the big grassy ledge, which turned into quite an adventure Next time, we should get it right

 

I ran across a tree frog living in a crack in pitch 2. I threw my hand in the crack and found the slimy little guy. Also, while standing at the base a nice snake landed at my feet. Didn't know I would get a trip to the zoo, while climbing the route

[Doug_Hutchinson]

Touched a tree frog in a crack on young warriors last week and Right Gull last weekend. What up with frogs this year? To echo Ivan, mad props to Jim, Joseph and Bill for all the work this year! The new slings and anchors on Dod's and Free for Some are sweet. Belaying on the ledge below the tree on Dod's is way better than the hanging tree belay use to be. Nice work!