bolting in sandstone

[corvallisclimb]

what type of bolts should be used to bolt in sandstone?

 

thanks

[Dru]

the biggest longest ones you can get, and glued in

[MysticNacho]

often times predrilling a hole then pounding in a pin holds better than a bolt.

[Freeman]

When the Pinnacles were rebolted all climbing anchors were 3/8 by 3 or 4 inch, rap anchors are 5/8 by 6. They were set in an industrial epoxy grout that is used by the DOT.

 

Every old bolt that was pulled required at most a crow bar or ball joint separator - most were pulled with a claw hammer. A few by hand.

[sobo]

Send a PM to Off_White. He's got his own sandstone crag in his front yard that he's bolted the crap out of. He'll have good practical advice (not to say that what has already been posted isn't).

[corvallisclimb]

hmm okay im not too sure what type of sandstone it is. the bolts that are there are not the glue in type(i bleive), they have hangers and are i belive are 3/8 inch. would you suggest the fixe glue in ones? like on some smith routes. i havent had to much experince with bolting, but i need to gather the right supplys as this is in another country, where it is near impossible to obtain the right stuff.

[Dru]

often times predrilling a hole then pounding in a pin holds better than a bolt.

 

That was only true of certain types of desert sandstone and certain old shitty 1/4" bolts. The ASCA sure isn't doing anchor replacement at Indian Creek using drilled angles!

[corvallisclimb]

there was one spot where there was a head smashed into a bolt hole

[CPOly]

Now now Sobo, he hasn't bolted the crap out of it , most placements have been chosen wisely. But he will have good tips.

[sobo]

Now now Sobo, he hasn't bolted the crap out of it , most placements have been chosen wisely. But he will have good tips.

 

Well, you know what I mean. Perhaps "...bolted the crap out of it..." was a much poorer choice of words on my part than "...has a lot of valuable experience placing bolts in Tenino sandstone..." would have been. I just know OW's had a lot of experience working with the particular material in question, and maybe corvallisclimb could stand to benefit from OW's practical adventures in the medium.

 

Just so everyone here knows, I am definitely not here to start a bolt/not bolt war on this board; there are far too many other battles for me to fight. If one must choose, one must choose wisely...

[nalo]

I know that people frown on not using official climbing stuff for bolts, but I've had some real success putting 4 inch sections of stainless steel allthread into sandstone with west system epoxy. I used fixe and metolius hangars, though. West system epoxy rules cause its relatively inexpensive, easy to acquire (any marine supply store), and easy to work with. It comes in two containers with little pumps on top, and one full press from each container provides the proper mix ratio. One thing to considder, though, is that you will probably need to fly to this foreign country, and you may not be allowed to take epoxy on the plane, as it is a flammable liquid.

[cj001f]

West system epoxy rules cause its relatively inexpensive, easy to acquire (any marine supply store), and easy to work with. It comes in two containers with little pumps on top, and one full press from each container provides the proper mix ratio. One thing to considder, though, is that you will probably need to fly to this foreign country, and you may not be allowed to take epoxy on the plane, as it is a flammable liquid.

West System Epoxy isn't flammable, it's expensive, requires relatively warm temperatures to cure properly, and it isn't anywhere near the best stuff to use on rock. So why do you use it?

[JayB]

Speaking of the ASCA - might be worth sending them an e-mail for their input.

[nalo]

I use it cause i'm a boatbuilder and it IS the best thing for epoxy/wood laminations. I love it, and it loves me. And yes, it is flammable. I just burned some to prove it to myself. And no, when you look at price per gallon, it's not expensive. Also,i've used it down to near freezing and it does get yellowish and viscous at low temperatures but it will cure completely and it will be strong.