Aconcagua Beta

[chilly]

Planning a trip to Aconcagua 1/11/03-2/8/03. Just wanted to see if anyone had some good beta on a reliable muleeteer, transport to and from Mendoza, hotels in Mendoza, and any other tips, do's and dont's experienced on your trip to Aconcagua.

Also, we should have 5-9 extra days to goof off in Chile, any suggestions, ie; beach stuff, city stuff, in the local surrounding area of Santiago.

 

Beer and snafflehound, life just doesn't get any better!

[Terminal_Gravity]

I was there last Jan. My main advice is... don't let the hoardes of people streaming off the mountain sharing their petty excuses of why they failed and why you should turn back now disuade you from doing what you want to. The climb is not that tough if you stay smart, keep hydrated and allow enough time to acclimate. The failure rate is very high because it is so popular being one of the seven. Very few attemptees really have much experience. Also make sure you and your partners are equally motivated.

 

I did not use mules so I can't help you there.

 

Bring less food and more mony on the climb than you think you need. You can buy stuff in base. Burger & fries go for about $12. Wine is a much much better deal than beer. $8 per liter for a delightful little red versus $5 per can of weak insipid warm oxidized industrial carbonated piss water. IMO.

 

Also, don't sell Mendoza short. I would rather spend time there then in Santiago any day, it's a great town...and it should be alot cheaper now with the currency woe's.

 

If you want more beta, call me 541-426-0158

 

cheers - steve

[genepires]

Which route are you doing? There are big differences between the standard route and the vacas side. Less of a zoo scene on vacas side. It is longer though but more scenic.

 

You really have to try to stay hydrated there. Water is not as available there. The air is drier and it is easy to unknowingly dehydrate yourself. Commit yourself to 3 to 4 liters a day.

 

We used Fernando Grajales for getting us from the airport, through the borders (with bribes), to the trail and then up with the mules. He has been doing it for a long time and treated us well.

 

tip for the mule teams. On the Vacas side, there are about three river crossings to do. They don't have to give you rides across the rivers on the mules. You can try to wade them but they are deep. For a couple cartons of smokes and about $10, they will let you ride the mules across. Worth it. They will wait at the crossings for you, especially if they think you will pay them, so let them know early. You might want to check up with some local to find out what they want for the ride.

 

There is a guide book for aconcogua that has names and phone numbers for mule services. Read it and beleive it. When I was there, three people died, four other people got edema, and after we left, a team of 6 got crushed. The making of a krakuer (sp?) novel. It looks like a choss pile (cause it is) but it kills every year. It is easy to go to fast. Altitude illness is very common there.

[genepires]

oh yeah,

 

There wasn't any food available on the vacas side. That was in '97 so things may have changed.

[haireball]

When I was there in 1990, the "restaurant" at Plaza de Mulas would give away the leftovers that hadn't sold from the previous evening's special each morning... worth checking out!

 

I agree that Mendoza is a nicer place to hang than Santiago. We stayed in a little mom-&-pop bed and breakfast with a grape arbor over a gorgeous courtyard at $6/night for a suite for four climbers.

 

In Chile, check out the BEACHES. The area around Vina del Mar is known as the "Riviera of the Western Hemisphere" lotsa gorgeous fems wearing what one of my climbing partners labeled "rectal floss".

 

Or take a bus to any of a million or so little unknown beach hamlets where you can camp on the beach and buy the catch of the day from the guy you just watched catch it...

 

have fun!

 

[ 09-25-2002, 09:42 AM: Message edited by: haireball ]

[Terminal_Gravity]

I'm sure Gene is right...but I only know the vacas side. I did not experience the mulas zoo on the other side.

 

Food & some supplies are readily available at plaza of the cows now.

[Terminal_Gravity]

Also: water is now readily availible at vacas.

 

There is a pipe coming out of the morain about a 1/2 a klick from the main camp. The camp doctor said that it has been tested and is totally pathogen free. So drink up...and remember for every liter of Rhum you drink you must choke down an extra 3 liters of water.

[ryland_moore]

Oh yeah, forgot about that issue. The permit issue is much more intense there then in PNW. If you don't have a permit, then you will have to deal with the Argentinian Military who patrol the areas with a Unimog and AK-47s! It is worth spending the money to not have to deal with the military and have your trip thwarted. Also, you are required to take a trash bag they supply you in and have it full when you return. If they think that you left anything on the mountain for the time you were there, they will fine you. I.E. If you are a party of three and are on the mountain for two weeks and return with a half-full trash bag for the three of you, then that will probably warrant a fine.

[chilly]

Thanks for all the responses, my team and I really appreciate it.

Just some additional info., we are taking the standard route, (mules are cheaper that way), and just a few more things I just thought of are.....down pants needed or can you get away with a exp. weight tight, a winstopper pant, and top it off with a Gore Tex pant for summit day? We will all have F. Friends 8000 meter coats that were bringing and Wild Country insulated gaiters with an open sole. Does this sound like were on the right page? What was your gear list like for this.

 

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I love the smell of burning Snafflehound in the morning mmmmmmmmm, good eatin...

[ryland_moore]

Since I was on a budget when down there, we stayed at an awesome hostel set up primarily for climbers. They even ran a guide service out of it. It is less than a block away from the main center of Mendoza near the fountains and they party like rock stars there. I can get the name for you if you'd like. Also used Grajales for mules, but he is definately the most expensive. There are many more operators in the area. Read the book talked about earlier. Public transportation is definitely the easiest and cheapest way to go. The buses will take you from Santiago to Mendoza, or instead of going to Mendoza, will just drop you off at the starting point for the climb. All you will be doing is backtracking to start your climb and riding a bus from Mendoza to Santiago that stops half-way. Only benefit is for resting and shopping, but remember that Argentina is more expensive than Chile. It cost me about $20 from Santiago to Mendoza and double on the way back. We actually went back to Santiago to catch a bus down to the Straight of Magellan, even though you chave to go into Argentina to get there because the longer bus ride out of Santiago was $125 less. Mendoza is nice and Argentinian women are beautiful albeit fake. We were there during the Wine festival and met a guy who owned a vinyard in N. Cali and had all these VIP passes. Pretty cool parties, although everyone was wondering, Who are these dirtbags? There is also an awesome restaurant in Mendoza that serves amazing steaks ($10 US for tenderloin)One of the nicer restaurants in Mendoza and still cheap. Remember, people don't start eating until around 10-11pm. It's a siesta thing. Beef in Argentina far surpasses any US beef. If you fly-fish, I'd bail on the beaches. They are beautiful, but not extraordinary. I'd get a bus down to the Lakes District and fish for sea run browns or nice rainbows in the lakes and streams. Pretty awesome. Oh yeah, when you get down from the mountain and are waiting for transportation back to Mendoza or Santiago, order a Super Lomo from the roadside stand. Egg, Avacado, mayo, mustard, ketchup, bacon, mystery meat, lettuce, tomato, and onion on a pita. Then go soak in the hotsprings. We actually camped there too illegally. Don't worry about spending money on the mountain. Just bring box wine litres (Gato Negro) you can buy at any supermarcado for $1. Better than most cheap wines in bottles you find in the US. Above all, go the Polish Glacier side. If conditions are not good on the glacier can always do the False Polish which traverses over to the Normal Route near 18,000'.

[Fence_Sitter]

and dont forget to drink lots of wine... mendoza baby yeah...

[Bob_Clarke]

I loved my experience - Polish Route via the Vacas Valley.

 

We flew into Santiago Chile (it was cheeper I think) and took a bus to Punta Del Inca where we hired the main guy there, shit his name jsut escaped me. Anyway he's RELIABLE. Main point here RELIABLE. A group of Californians dissed him and went further downte road for cheeper mules and got screwed. The mules didn't show up for days. After the climb we decended the Plaza de Mules (see previous posts) and where surrounded by folks wanting to purchase our gear. I mean everything, I sold my expedition weight teal green underware that I'd been wearing for $100 American dollars. Needless to say we got the hell out of there quick because to many creepy looking people were checking out everything tha wasn't nailed down.

 

So then it was off to the Chilean coast and Vina Del Mar. You MUST GO THERE. GO AND SEE THE BEACH, any red blooded man MUST GO THERE.

 

Basically we took MRE's and bought fresh salad shit and fresh foods as well (thank god for Mules) and had an awesome time.

 

Have fun.

[Terminal_Gravity]

It is my understanding that you now MUST go to Mendoza for your permit. That has only been true for the last year or two. Mine was checked 3 times on the vacas side...once by some pretty serious looking dudes with machine pistols.

 

Be forwarned.

[RopeGunHooker]

The way I read it stay moderate unless the jet-stream drops, and then the wind-chill can freeze you solid in minutes. just keep an eye on your barometer...

is that you might take them but not climb in them.

[ryland_moore]

The way I read it you won't need down jackets and pants unless you're planning to sleep in those instead of a sleeping bag. leads me to believe he is saying don't worry about bringing it at all unless you want to leave your bag behind. One or the other? Sorry if I misread your response. Latrix

[Cpt.Caveman]

Maybe he has a himalayan suit and climbs like lightning and only in bomber weather.

 

That said I'd climb it naked

 

[ 09-26-2002, 01:14 PM: Message edited by: Cpt.Caveman ]

[ryland_moore]

Make sure someone gets pictures when ya do! Wonder how that feels if ya bust comin' down the talus and scree fields? Would your "buddies" pull through? Damn that makes me cringe thinking of razor sharp rocks slashing at my cocknballs. Kinda like the scared turtle in full effect.

[Cpt.Caveman]

No cameras I'll be naked. Also no partners. Solo is the only way to go.

 

Wait for a TR this winter.

[Cpt.Caveman]

BTW winter here is summer there too

[haireball]

for clothing - my partners and I just climbed in the basic unerwear-fleece-shell combination. you won't need down jackets and pants unless you're planning to sleep in those instead of a sleeping bag. temps, all the way to the summit, stay moderate unless the jet-stream drops, and then the wind-chill can freeze you solid in minutes. just keep an eye on your barometer...

[ryland_moore]

hairball, the way I read your response is that it is not necessary to take down jackets. You give a hint that down could be useful, but your group didn't need any. That may be true and you lucked out with weather, but most of the average of ten people who die on this mountain each year, die on the normal route and die because they are not prepared. When I was there in '99, 11 people died from one storm because they didn't have the proper gear. My contacts froze in their case while on the other side of the mountain and we were tent bound just below 20,000' for 4 days waiting out a storm. Don't know how cold it got, but I had a -20 degree bag and bivy sack and was freezing cold each night. On the normal route you may never even touch snow on the entire climb depending on the winter snow conditions. It is a slog, and you will encounter a lot of scree and dirt, but you will see some amazing peaks around you once you get up over 18,000'. Enjoy it and good luck.

[chilly]

Thanks for all the beta, we are dialed in now, wish we were leaving tommorrow............

 

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Do I smell bbq'd ?