tlinn Posted November 13, 2004 Posted November 13, 2004 Wondering what the situation is with Sunblessed. The Squamish Select Guide says the first bolt is a bit high but when I looked at it today it seemed a bit ridiculous. The first two bolts looked like they had been chopped. Have the bolts been chopped, or am I just not enough of a hardman to run it out 10 metres off the deck? Quote
Peter_Puget Posted November 13, 2004 Posted November 13, 2004 IIRC when I climbed Sunblessed there were not 3 bolts in the first 30 feet, soI am guessing the chopped bolts are new. I remember the climbing not being very hard but since the route follows a dike thinking that I would not be surprised if a hold broke on someone sometime. The next pitch also seemed a bit over rated but the 4th was quite a bit harder. I remember wanting a bigger piece than I had near the bottom of it and finding the top (crux) a bit wet. I climbed it in February and the rest of the route was bone dry. Quote
snoboy Posted November 13, 2004 Posted November 13, 2004 I think the present situation is as it was originally put up. The FA chopped two chicken bolts that were added. I think it is a shame that the 1st pitch is so run out, as it would be a truly sucky place to break an ankle. I hiked up there to do that route a few years back, and after much searcxhing, decided that it was not for me. C'est la vie. I would love to see more bolts there, but I would be in line to chop them if they appeared again... Quote
Cairns Posted November 13, 2004 Posted November 13, 2004 Wondering what the situation is with Sunblessed. The Squamish Select Guide says the first bolt is a bit high but when I looked at it today it seemed a bit ridiculous. The first two bolts looked like they had been chopped. Have the bolts been chopped, or am I just not enough of a hardman to run it out 10 metres off the deck? Robin Barley is the one to talk to and he isn't hard to find, perhaps at Skaha more often these days but may be getting a place by the Smoke Bluffs. The initial dike of Sunblessed is narrow and leans left. It could throw newer climbers whose balance and footwork are still under construction or worse, gym acquired. The handholds are positive, but you don't want trouble reaching for the next. I did it once when a lower bolt had been added and didn't even notice the difference. Until next time when it had been chopped. It would take 2-3 lower bolts to remove the risk. Quote
lancegranite Posted November 13, 2004 Posted November 13, 2004 It seems to be some new kind of Cunning Stunt... Quote
mattp Posted November 13, 2004 Posted November 13, 2004 However, wasn't Cunning Stunt retrobolted by, or with the permission of, the FA? Quote
chucK Posted November 13, 2004 Posted November 13, 2004 So how does p1 of Sunblessed (the current version) compare to Merci Me? Quote
snoboy Posted November 13, 2004 Posted November 13, 2004 Oh boy, with the caveat that I haven't actually climbed p1 of Sunblessed yet... It's harder (duh!), steeper but similar climbing, and not quite as runout... I think once you get the first bolt, that the next ones are reasonably spaced. Quote
tlinn Posted November 13, 2004 Author Posted November 13, 2004 Yeah, once you clip the first bolt it looks to be well bolted, so I figured it had to be really easy getting to the first bolt, but after staring at it for a while from the bottom I decided I would leave it for another day. Quote
dberdinka Posted November 13, 2004 Posted November 13, 2004 The runout to the first bolt is completely out of character with the rest of the route, probably awkward 5.8? Kinda stupid but it keeps the riff-raff out... Quote
eric8 Posted November 13, 2004 Posted November 13, 2004 The runout to the first bolt is completely out of character with the rest of the route, probably awkward 5.8? Kinda stupid but it keeps the riff-raff out... agreed, it does get harder the second you clip the bolt... and the runout shouldn't be to bad for a 10- leader Quote
Dru Posted November 15, 2004 Posted November 15, 2004 Yeah it's only 5.8 to the first bolt, the run out is fun Quote
jmace Posted November 19, 2004 Posted November 19, 2004 Yep at most 5.8, its fun and the only thig a shame is that someone put a couple of bolts on it that had to be removed, now its 3 chopped ugly bolts. If you cant climb to the first bolt you are not going to be able to do the last pitch whose bolt is high as well. I dont think any one needs to mess with a 3 1/2 star route, routes get those stars for being, well protected, good stances and well spaced bolts. The route rocks, do Nicks Trick if you dont like Sunblessed's first bolt. J Quote
tlinn Posted November 20, 2004 Author Posted November 20, 2004 Thanks for the suggestions. I think I'll have to hike back in there and give it another go. Quote
Peter_Puget Posted November 20, 2004 Posted November 20, 2004 There's a bolt on the last pitch of Sunblessed? I do not remember that. Where is it? I remember a beat of fixed bong that was not really needed but that was the only fixed piece I remember. Quote
EWolfe Posted November 20, 2004 Posted November 20, 2004 Speaking of which: Does anyone have good approach directions to that thing? I have tried to find it twice. Quote
Peter_Puget Posted November 20, 2004 Posted November 20, 2004 LOL I became lost the first time I tried to find it too. The high star count lured me into trying again. Sadly the climb is pretty much average in quality. Quote
tlinn Posted November 20, 2004 Author Posted November 20, 2004 The best directions I can give you are to stay as high as possible once you leave the "gully." Take the second exit out of the gully, the one AFTER the big downed cedar. From here, you head straight uphill, traverse a short open section heading east, then go straight up again to some open slabs. Once you reach the open slabs you should easily be able to find it. Quote
Cairns Posted November 20, 2004 Posted November 20, 2004 LOL I became lost the first time I tried to find it too. The high star count lured me into trying again. Sadly the climb is pretty much average in quality. You are twisted or not much at math? The first pitch is a God-said-Climb-Here dike. The second pitch is a beautiful crack in a good position, coverclimb for the McLane guide. Choice of 4 count them 4 finishes all good but 1 pretty hard. The area gets sun in early and late or winter season when you have to wait 'til afternoon for sun at most other multi-pitch options. Not much road noise. Airy because of elevation gained on the approach, and good view of Mamquam icefield. Main downside: long uphill approach, for cragger, for 1 route. Quote
EWolfe Posted November 20, 2004 Posted November 20, 2004 The best directions I can give you are to stay as high as possible once you leave the "gully." Take the second exit out of the gully, the one AFTER the big downed cedar. From here, you head straight uphill, traverse a short open section heading east, then go straight up again to some open slabs. Once you reach the open slabs you should easily be able to find it. Thanks for the beta. Quote
Dru Posted November 20, 2004 Posted November 20, 2004 Hey E if you can't find it just walk up to 3rd summit and then walk DOWN to the top of the route and rap in. Quote
specialed Posted November 22, 2004 Posted November 22, 2004 Its been a while since I did this route, but I remember the runout toth e first bolt to be a little spicy. But I think that was primarily because it was a hot day and the black dike was a little slick. Quote
Dru Posted November 22, 2004 Posted November 22, 2004 The dyke is white not black.... you DID do this route a long time ago. Quote
specialed Posted November 22, 2004 Posted November 22, 2004 You know your dikes Dru ... you must play softball. Quote
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