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Shucksan


scott_harpell

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I was on the Shuksan in early November last year at the end of one of the hottest, driest summers on record and the navigation was trivial.

 

The only hazard I can see is weak, shallow bridges covering relatively small crevasses. Last year there was really no snow-cover whatsoever, and this just wasn't a problem.

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The earlier reference was for the north face route. The sulphide route should be pretty good. If ever I had to solo a glacier (gun held to my head) it would be that one.

 

For a day trip, get a very early start as there are lots of terrain to cover. It seems most day trips are done on skiis in the spring. Advise your friends to have some rock gear for the summit pryamid which may (or may not) have some snow smattered around.

 

have a good time

 

geno

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Go for it. This is a great trip, especially for beginners. If you have a strong and modivated group, a day isn't bad at all. With a group of beginners I started at 6am and got out a bit after dark. Not a one of them had ever climbed. We kept them moving though.

Edited by AllYouCanEat
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Oh yeah, to reiterate JayB's mention of possible hidden crevasses... Seems if there's any time to rope up on a glacier, it's when there is new and relatively thin/weak snowpack, like there ought to be now. You'd probably have to walk into an obvious depression to fall into one, but you never know.

 

this was the only time of the year i have gone into a crevasse, and they were hidden by wind scattered snow. thankfully i only went in knee deep, but it was still scary as hell.

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I have always thought of the Sulphide as relatively gentle and as presenting no big concerns with regard to crevasse fall potential. I was up there alone after having gone up the Fischer Chimneys last October and plunged into my waist twice and knees another time enroute to and from the summit pyramid. There was some fresh snow that complicated things, not much but enough. I was definitely caught off guard by this and was wishing for a rope and partner at a few points for sure. Just a heads up. Pretty casual but there are a few things to fall into if you know where to step.

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