scott_harpell Posted October 13, 2004 Posted October 13, 2004 Am I right to tell my buddies that I think it would be a bad idea to try the sulphide in a day right now? Seems like it was pretty broken up in Sept. and I can't imagine it beign any better now. Quote
cracked Posted October 14, 2004 Posted October 14, 2004 Where is this 'Shucksan'? I have never heard of it. Quote
scott_harpell Posted October 14, 2004 Author Posted October 14, 2004 It's fine if they don't suck. Killer... I just read a TR from a month ago and they said it was almost impossible, so i was starting to worry. gracias. Quote
JayB Posted October 14, 2004 Posted October 14, 2004 I was on the Shuksan in early November last year at the end of one of the hottest, driest summers on record and the navigation was trivial. Â The only hazard I can see is weak, shallow bridges covering relatively small crevasses. Last year there was really no snow-cover whatsoever, and this just wasn't a problem. Quote
scott_harpell Posted October 14, 2004 Author Posted October 14, 2004 Right on. That TR just scared me a little. Quote
ashw_justin Posted October 14, 2004 Posted October 14, 2004 Oh yeah, to reiterate JayB's mention of possible hidden crevasses... Seems if there's any time to rope up on a glacier, it's when there is new and relatively thin/weak snowpack, like there ought to be now. You'd probably have to walk into an obvious depression to fall into one, but you never know. Quote
Bill_Simpkins Posted October 14, 2004 Posted October 14, 2004 I've done Shuksan this time of year, I agree, it was trivial. It was pretty icy, but just in sections. Quote
genepires Posted October 14, 2004 Posted October 14, 2004 The earlier reference was for the north face route. The sulphide route should be pretty good. If ever I had to solo a glacier (gun held to my head) it would be that one.  For a day trip, get a very early start as there are lots of terrain to cover. It seems most day trips are done on skiis in the spring. Advise your friends to have some rock gear for the summit pryamid which may (or may not) have some snow smattered around.  have a good time  geno Quote
scott_harpell Posted October 14, 2004 Author Posted October 14, 2004 This is the one I was talking about. Thanks though. Quote
AllYouCanEat Posted October 14, 2004 Posted October 14, 2004 (edited) Go for it. This is a great trip, especially for beginners. If you have a strong and modivated group, a day isn't bad at all. With a group of beginners I started at 6am and got out a bit after dark. Not a one of them had ever climbed. We kept them moving though. Edited October 14, 2004 by AllYouCanEat Quote
scott_harpell Posted October 14, 2004 Author Posted October 14, 2004 I have only gone down this route and it was freaking boring. I can't imagine how borign it will be 2x. I guess it should be really nice for views this time of the year though. Probably wont see a damned thing though this weekend. Quote
JoshK Posted October 14, 2004 Posted October 14, 2004 Oh yeah, to reiterate JayB's mention of possible hidden crevasses... Seems if there's any time to rope up on a glacier, it's when there is new and relatively thin/weak snowpack, like there ought to be now. You'd probably have to walk into an obvious depression to fall into one, but you never know. Â this was the only time of the year i have gone into a crevasse, and they were hidden by wind scattered snow. thankfully i only went in knee deep, but it was still scary as hell. Quote
Climzalot Posted October 14, 2004 Posted October 14, 2004 I have always thought of the Sulphide as relatively gentle and as presenting no big concerns with regard to crevasse fall potential. I was up there alone after having gone up the Fischer Chimneys last October and plunged into my waist twice and knees another time enroute to and from the summit pyramid. There was some fresh snow that complicated things, not much but enough. I was definitely caught off guard by this and was wishing for a rope and partner at a few points for sure. Just a heads up. Pretty casual but there are a few things to fall into if you know where to step. Quote
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