Expedition Shell?

[hohm]

I am heading to Ecuador this winter, and am looking for recommendations for a hardshell to replace my relic of a jacket. Looking for a durable shell, reasonably light, good for high-altitude glacier slogs, also suitable for occasional back-country XC ventures.

Whats your favorite expedition shell?

[DPS]

Marmot Precip.

[John Frieh]

Arcteryx Alpha SL... 12 ounces.

[hohm]

Do you really think the Precip or the Alpha SL are durable enough for an expedition shell? I have a Precip as a cragging shell, but have found that it does get wet after a spell of rain, and I would question whether it would hold up for a 3 week trip into the mountains. Any suggestions for a stouter jacket?

[cracked]

Patagonia Microburst.

 

Why does an expedition shell have to be so durable? Are you going to put more wear on it in three weeks than in two or three seasons of 'normal' climbing? A high altitude glacier slog isn't awfully rough on gear.

[John Frieh]

3 weeks of what? Mountaineering? Alpine rock? Where are you going?

[cracked]

Ecuador. Glacier slogs. Read the first post, NOLSe! Sheesh.

[DPS]

Ummm, I have worn my precip on two Alaskan 'expeditions' and continuously for two and half years in the Cascades. Its plenty waterproof. Do you expect it to rain while at high altitude? I wore an ever less water proof, lighter jacket for four years (two winter ascents of Rainier) and one Alaskan trip before my Precip.

[cj001f]

Do you really think the Precip or the Alpha SL are durable enough for an expedition shell?

I have an Arc'teryx Sirius SL. The "less-durable" predecessor to the Alpha SL. I've worn it 50-60 days. Bushwacking, liftskiing, running into lift pulleys, climbing, it hasn't worn out. I'm positive you couldn't abuse it more on an expedition.

[thelawgoddess]

i think i have a theta variety of arcteryx shell. it's a little dirty now, but bomber as all heck as far as durability is concerned. seem to be quite a few nice shells out there these days.

[Alpinfox]

 

I was in Jim Nelson's shop the other day and he seemed pretty stoked on this jacket:

 

Integral Designs eVENT Rain Jacket. 9.5oz. I tried it on. Nice.

[cracked]

My Patagonia WP/B pullover weighs as much as the eVENT thing, but it has a hood with a brim.

[hohm]

Any thoughts on the Marmot Alpinist Ascent?

[Nick]

I have gotten away with ultra light shells (like the Lowe adrenaline) in bad weather, but whenever conditions are really bad I am wishing for something more stout! It all depends on your total clothing set up. Is the shell just the water proof frosting on top of several burly layers? Or are you counting on the shell to keep the wind out because you don't have a lot of clothing in the first place? Will you be motionless at belays a lot, or just simul climbing from bivy to bivy? The tailoring of a shell may be more important than how heavy it is. I am skinny, and loose fitting shells let the wind blow in and chill me down.

Maybe you want two light shells, a close fitting wind shell and another, larger, rain shell that can go over all of your layers.

I am just trying out a new waterproof soft shell from OR (Mithril) that seems like it will be a very good winter and bad weather shell; I think it may turn out to be more breathable and less clammy than the standard gore tex gear, and it fits and stretches very well, seems like it works well as anything from an inner layer to an outer layer.

In really bad weather you will get wet in any shell, will your clothes keep you alive when you are wet? Will they dry fast when you get a bit of shelter? Will they collect snow and ice in mesh and velcro, zippers and pockets? Simple is good. Make sure the hood fits well over a warm hat plus helmet. Gore tex pac lite seems to breath well.

[Rainier_Wolfscastle]

Cloudveil Koven or the lighter Drizzle Jacket are both really nice, athletic fitting shells.

[Clivus]

If you want a bomber shell. I've got a Arcteryx Alpha SV that I'll sell you. It's so bomber I never use it anymore. 90% of the time I wear a dryclime jacket. If I need a shell I use precip.

[hohm]

Clivus.....check your PMs

[flatland]

You need to ask yourself if the conditions will mandate wearing the shell from the car and most of the trip or will you be carrying it more than 50% of the time. If conditions are harsh enough that you need to wear your shell most of the time then articulation, pocket configuration, hood, ventilation and overall fit will be very important. If this is the case it is worth carrying a 20+ oz jacket such as the Arc Teryx Alpha SV, which has the best fit out there. If you will be carrying the jacket get a light anorak like the marmot precip or patagonia spectre both around 9 oz. If it's going to be dry the Arc Teryx Gamma MX Hoody and Cloudveil Icefloe hooded soft shells are great (the Gamma MX hood is especialy good). I like the added breathability even with cold wind.