noob: gear advice

[Jeebus]

Hi Everyone!

First post. Noob would appreciate some gear advice for climbing Mt. Rainier. Plan to climb in Summer 2005.

I have tons of questions but I'll start with a few...I have a whole year to hound all the good people here.

 

1. What rope to use for Rainier. I will rope up with my wife. Searching here I learned that 2 is not the best way to go, but that's what we got. Also, some say 8.5 single is alright for glacier travel, others say 8.5mm should not be used single. Please advise on thickness, good brands etc.

2. What kind of carabiners and how many of each kind for each person in a party of two? Thickness, types, preferred models etc.

 

I'll leave it at this.

 

Oh, btw, I'm a Pakistani married to an American, and I live in the US. Went to Pakistan this summer with my spouse and we hiked up to Rakaposhi base camp, Nanga Parbat Base camp (Raikot bridge side), and Batura Glacier.

some pics here:

Rakaposhi, Batura Glacier, Nanga Parbat

 

For those interested in first ascents, the north side of Batura Peak along the massive Batura Ice Floe is still unclimbed (7785m, around 25,500ft)

[Rad]

Carabiners and a rope will only help you if you have solid crevasse rescue skills.

[Alex]

Jeebus, short answer is that a single 8.5 mm rope is standard on Mt Rainier. Carabiner options vary. I would pick up a copy of Andy Selters' Glacier Travel and Crevasse Rescue book and study it all winter long with your wife, going out on several weekends to practice the various systems, prussiking up a rope, and so on.

 

Nice pics of Pakistan!

[Ireneo_Funes]

You especially want to be solid on crevasse rescue if it's just going to be you and one partner.

 

Sounds like you might want to look at a couple books: "The Freedom of the Hills," published by the Mountaineers, and Andy Selters' "Glacier Travel & Crevasse Rescue."

[selkirk]

With only two people practice being able to set up the whole crevasse rescue system yourself, as well as figuring out both how to arrest a fall, and how to get an anchor in while your in the arrest position... I imagine it could be a bit tricky. Good luck and have fun!

[Jeebus]

thanks. I already have both books ordered and in the mail. I do understand the philosophical underpinnings of the responses. Wife and I need to be proficient in crevasse rescue before such an adventure and we intend to practice.

 

I'm assuming the books tell me exactly what to buy so I'll wait until after I've read both books.

 

Thanks for the replies though.

[Dave_Schuldt]

Cool pics!

[Jeebus]

thank you kind sir. Happy Climbing!

[thelawgoddess]

planning the climb with your wife should be lots of fun! i'm glad you are looking to do it the "right" way by learning a lot and practicing before you go.

 

btw, what is that dead thing in the picture?

[scott_harpell]

I bring a 7.8mm and it took a big whipping crevasse fall by my fat ass partner with a winter pack on, so as long as you don't step on it you should be fine.

[Jeebus]

Thanks for the gear advice Scott.

 

Lawgoddess...it is goat meat in the pictures. The person who told me about this forum sent me pictures of his climb in Peru. He had a similar picture of a butcher shop but the animals in that picture were...*gulp* DOGS!

[Redoubt]

Using this board, you should also have no problem lining up another couple of competent partners by next summer. In addition to you and your wife learning and practicing crevasse rescue skills, there's probably no better single thing you can do to increase your safety than to go with more than just the two of you.

[scott_harpell]

I agree, if you are going with just two people, you have to have your shit dialed. You both have to be able to get the other out in ANY circumstance without a doubt.

[Tad]

Get in shape. Be self sufficient. And be knowledgeable of glacier travel, navigation, rescue and survival through hands-on practice. Don't assume people will be nearby or know how to help you on the upper mountain. Summer is a great time to climb Mt. Rainier. Good luck and enjoy the journey.