Infinite Bliss -this Sat, Sept 25

[Alex]

I think Direct East Buttress only has maybe 25 bolts total.

[Dru]

but it isn't as long. you need to standardize holes per pitch.

[Dave_Schuldt]

I love iternet rumors!

[marylou]

Yeah, the Forest Circus has a lot of resources for chopping big long routes that were illgally bolted in Wilderness.

[bobinc]

I propose allocating Fee Demo funds to the chopping projects.

[Cpt.Caveman]

No need to. Sounds like people are already grumbling about doing it for free of charge..

[Dave_Schuldt]

Where is retrosurus?

[Cpt.Caveman]

Probably lurking. I dont need him to help me chop shit.

 

Wimpy skinny fuckers want to talk shit. You talk here on the internet. I'll talk my shit by lopping off bolts.

 

First garbage dropp off will be at pube club tuesday. See you there.

[Lambone]

Ray, just be sure to remove them properly, and fill the holes...

[Alpinfox]

There are not 12 bolts per pitch! On the first 5 pitches there are 22 bolts. The next pitches average something like 3 bolts per pitch to pitch 11, which has something like 8. After that, there are maybe less than 2 bolts per pitch not including anchors to the top of 18. The final pitches have more, maybe like 8 bolts per pitch?

 

Alex, have you done IB? I think your bolt counts are off by a wide margin. I considered the route to be pretty heavily bolted.

 

Dru, have you done DEB on SEWS? The bolts are confined to two bolt ladders of about 6 or 7 bolts each. Most of the route has no bolts at all.

[Dru]

on the first ascent the ladders were longer though. the topo shows 33 bolts in total of which 30 are on the ladders.

 

now that it is a freeclimb there are fewer bolts.. i think they only replaced one in two...

[Alex]

Alex, have you done IB? I think your bolt counts are off by a wide margin. I considered the route to be pretty heavily bolted.

 

Yes. Whats your guess then?

[Alpinfox]

Well I didn't count, but I remember the two 5.10 pitches having what was probably more like 10-12 bolts in less than 30m. I definitely remember more than 4 bolts/pitch on the first 5 pitches. The only pitches that aren't closely bolted are the chossy ramp pitch that goes up and right (there is an old pin there) and the three (or so) 4th class scrambly pitches in the middle of the route.

 

I can't remember what pitch it was, but there is one point where you have a bolt just below your feet, a bolt around your knees, and you are clipping a bolt above your head.

 

In any case, I think the quality of the route is over rated and the only reason it is notable is the novelty of its length. It's a shame that it has caused so much uproar and conflict with land managers. I recommend that anyone looking for lots and lots of pitches of granite slab climbing go to Darrington or Static Point instead. Any two good routes there will have more quality climbing than IB.

[mtngrrrl]

I climbed it. Thought it was plenty fun and not over-bolted. Thanks Leland. I and my Oregonian partner had a great time.

 

I hope a compromise can be reached and that the route remains. Yeah, I do think hundreds of climbers have been up there by now, but anyone who thinks a trail has been "built" hasn't hiked up there.

 

Static Point and Darrington are both fun, too. I recommend all areas, but I recommend packing extra courage for Static Point.

[marylou]

Mtngrrl, what "compromise" would you suggest for a 23-pitch route put up illegally with a power drill in a Wilderness?

[Dru]

What about agreeing to go by the USGS-mapped boundary even if it is incorrect?

 

How much in error is the boundary shown on the uSGS anyways? A couple hundred feet, inches, or miles?