layton Posted September 11, 2004 Posted September 11, 2004 So, what objectives have you thought were gonna be good climbs (esp. first ascents) and turned out sucky? Mine are all posted online alread 'cept for one that starts with a "T", but I need Jordop's permission to say it. 2nd letter is an "a". Angry Nipple Discharge, Brambles Buttress Sky,Carlos Rossi Memorial Tower,Holliway,Needles,NF Central Rib Triumph,W.Face Cuthroat...pretty much everything besides Action Potential and Back of Beyond Buttress. So come on, spill the beans. What sucks? What should we not waste our time on that you failed to climb? I know a Dberdinka/Necro route that would fit this bill. and of cousre all of Dru's crap on that slag heap that starts with an "A" Quote
Alpinfox Posted September 11, 2004 Posted September 11, 2004 NF rib of Triumph was sucky? That wouldn't have been an FA anyway. That thing looks SCHWEEET! I will say that I thought NE ridge of Triumph was going to be a lot better climbing than it was. Oh well. Good views anyway. I tried to do a second ascent of one of Off_White's routes on Silver Star with BobbyPeru and it was sucky. My only FAs have been sport routes and one ice route... Quote
layton Posted September 11, 2004 Author Posted September 11, 2004 clarification: i didn't do the N.F. rib on triumph. it just looked sucky up close. it just looked.....non-inspiring. steep but stupid. you sure you were on off white's route. did you see his bolts. why did it suck? explain. Quote
jordop Posted September 11, 2004 Posted September 11, 2004 "Angry Nipple Discharge, Brambles Buttress Sky,Carlos Rossi Memorial Tower,Holliway,West Face of Cutthroat..." I feel special, these all involve me you forgot Bendor The lesson here is: scopin for FAs around here is a crapshoot. Go to the icefields: Quote
Dru Posted September 11, 2004 Posted September 11, 2004 Vantage. Although I did not fail on anything there, nonetheless I still think it sucks. Quote
Alpinfox Posted September 11, 2004 Posted September 11, 2004 you sure you were on off white's route. did you see his bolts. why did it suck? explain. We were pretty sure we were at the base of his route and all we saw was a ramp of granola and an uninspiring looking face. We never saw any bolts. Our motivation was further sapped by the heat and hordes of mosquitos at the base of the route. We hiked down and went swimming in Mazama instead of climbing that day. Another route that sucked was the N. Ridge of Baker. It didn't really suck, it was just a LOT shorter than I thought it was gonna be. One and a half pitches of ice and we were at the top. Guess I should have read the route description more carefully. Quote
Dru Posted September 11, 2004 Posted September 11, 2004 i have motivated baker-seeking partners into climbing new routes, several times by telling them how if they wanted to climb a pitch and a half of ice there were spots where we could do it with less than a 7 hr approach Quote
Stemalot Posted September 11, 2004 Posted September 11, 2004 humm...everything jordop have suggested and me foolishly went along... next time, I'll do the suggestion. Quote
jordop Posted September 12, 2004 Posted September 12, 2004 Ahh, Steve we got a pretty good record going! Sure there was this this summer: But there was also this and this last year: Quote
layton Posted September 12, 2004 Author Posted September 12, 2004 Forgot good ol' Der Dihedral! Quote
Dru Posted September 12, 2004 Posted September 12, 2004 Hey I think there's a new route to do on the Table, teacup handle, you guys better rush in there. Rock looks STELLAR and contour lines are close together Quote
layton Posted September 12, 2004 Author Posted September 12, 2004 you gonna spill the beans jordan? I'll leave it up to you. i'm not gonna bother with that drive again. Quote
carolyn Posted September 12, 2004 Posted September 12, 2004 well, it aint no mountain AND I have no idea what we were going to climb,but dont you think that day in Jtree was quite a dud Mike? ok, well it ended nicely. Quite the goose chase to get to the fun, tho. Quote
layton Posted September 12, 2004 Author Posted September 12, 2004 you mean the, "bring a guide to find the crag" day? C'mon! We got some AWESOME hiking in, and a great taquito roll shot! Quote
Stemalot Posted September 12, 2004 Posted September 12, 2004 oh yeah Jordop, hours of this sure was fun too! Quote
Off_White Posted September 13, 2004 Posted September 13, 2004 NE Face of Fortress was pretty much a dud. Looked good in a fuzzy picture. A little 5.7 past the moat, few pitches of moderate rock, then a long slowly steepening snow slope that dumped out on a ridge quite aways from the summit. Not bad, but hardly the shit. Other lines to the right looked like choss. All the same, the moraine offered world class trundling onto the glacier below, we got a good sofa sized boulder rolling. Not an FA, but N Face on Booker was less than we'd hoped. A section of steep vertically stacked loose pie plates inspired us to bail. Alpinfox, I think you guys were in the wrong spot, probably due to bad and fuzzy beta on my part, I think you needed to be higher and to the left. Only granola on the route was incidental, a ledge about 7 pitches up. Quote
EWolfe Posted September 13, 2004 Posted September 13, 2004 Forgot good ol' Der Dihedral! Yeah, that was suck. But not as suck as "The Gaping Maw", had we gone a little futher up the snowfield. Quote
Cpt.Caveman Posted September 13, 2004 Posted September 13, 2004 The biggest dud of a climb I have ever done in the stuart range was W Ridge Sherpa peak. Granted it would be great rock in some ranges but plenty of better routes in the area worth doing instead... Don't waste your time unless you want to climb the balanced rock. Quote
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