Q's on Sept. Rainier ascent

[ogre]

My partner and I have tentative plans to do the D.C. route around the second weekend in September. Do we need shells or can we use the cramp. compatable boots we've used on Adams and Baker? Also I have an 8mm 30m. rope. Can we use that (perhaps doubled) or should we use a 9mm rope? Should we take any ice screws? Which is better to use an ice axe or an ice tool (hammer) in case having to pound a picket?

And out of curiosity how many folks are climbing that hill this time of year. Is it still in pretty decent shape or what? Is that my 20 questions yet? Any and all advice is greatly appreciated as I'm sure you all understand. We are up and coming great and mighty mountaineers but are still humble enough to accept an occasional ass whipping from time to time. ( I mean council).

P.S. Would you recommend a down parka or will our wind gear work?

Thanks! There will be more Q's along the way I'm sure.

The Ogre we still need more instant gremlins

[wally]

Climbed DC last sept 2nd, ice screws wouldn't hold, glacier to soft but to firm to place a picket without something to pound it in with. RMI was still running with about 35 others at muir. route was a deep trench thru 4 foot suncups above the cleaver. But that was last year

[Buckaroo]

Tie in short to a 50m to facilitate crevasse rescue

 

At least an ice screw each.

 

Ice axe each, maybe one hammer. It's a dillema, maybe a straight black prophet and bring a hammer head for it.

 

Prefer plastics but one step down would work. The key is to have bullet proof crampons. People have died on Rainier because of faulty/dull crampons. You go up in OK conditions and then the thing freezes hard once you're up, even the easy routes can become treacherous.

 

Would never go on Rainier without an insulating jacket, prefer man made fibre. And wind jacket and zip wind pants.

 

You've been to 12,000' on Baker but remember it's that extra couple thousand feet that's a kicker on Rainier from an aerobics and weather standpoint.

 

Sept is getting colder, the air is thinner. The snow gets melted off the glaciers from the long hot summer then gets covered by the first snow of the season. Powder covering the crevasses can make it tricky.

[DPS]

Tie in short to a 50m to facilitate crevasse rescue

 

30 meters is plenty

 

At least an ice screw each.

 

And a picket, prusiks, pulley and most importantly the knowledge to use it

 

Ice axe each, maybe one hammer. It's a dillema, maybe a straight black prophet and bring a hammer head for it.

 

Ice axe, it would suck to be bent over an ice tool. One can use the top of an axe to pound pickets.

 

Prefer plastics but one step down would work. The key is to have bullet proof crampons. People have died on Rainier because of faulty/dull crampons. You go up in OK conditions and then the thing freezes hard once you're up, even the easy routes can become treacherous. Would never go on Rainier without an insulating jacket, prefer man made fibre. And wind jacket and zip wind pants.

I agree

You've been to 12,000' on Baker but remember it's that extra couple thousand feet that's a kicker on Rainier from an aerobics and weather standpoint.

 

Baker is only 10,778

 

Sept is getting colder, the air is thinner.

 

The air is not any thinner in September.

[fenderfour]

Actually cold air has more oxygen. Where is CBS when you need him?

 

Ice screw an picket each. You will (probably) only use these for a rescue.

 

Plastic boots are great, but I have climbed in leathers. If you use leathers, I would recommend crampons with a strap-on binding. It's almost impossible to drop a crampon with full straps.

 

No need for a second tool or a hammer.

 

With the questions that you are asking, you don't sound like a very experienced climber, so I would recommend a 50m rope. Check out Freedom of the Hills and learn the Kiwi Coil if only two of you are going. The extra length will make crevasse rescue easier and more straightforward for new climbers.

 

As DPS said, take pulleys and prusiks, and know how to use them. Some of the snowbridges will be great, others will be very sketchy.

 

Last year the route was very trenched. I would imagine that a trench is typical this late in the season. RMI does standard guiding through September, so the route should be well marked.

 

One more thing - i recommend that you camp at Ingraham Flats instead of Muir. It's a little quieter and less windy. You also cut about an hour off your summit day. The only drawback is the absence of a shitter.

[Alpinfox]

Actually cold air has more oxygen. Where is CBS when you need him?

 

Sort of true. Cold air is denser (more moles of gas/volume), but it is still 21% oxygen. Seasonal changes in average barometric pressure are pretty much insignificant and are overshadowed by more acute weather patterns.

 

Table of monthly barometric pressure averages for various places in Oregon

 

Basic info on barometric pressure with a cool global map of average barometric pressures by month

 

*check out how much the pressure over antarctica changes with season!

 

[Dr_Crash]

One more thing - i recommend that you camp at Ingraham Flats instead of Muir. It's a little quieter and less windy. You also cut about an hour off your summit day. The only drawback is the absence of a shitter.

 

Ingraham flats was way more windy than Muir when I camped there last week-end.

 

I second the recommendation anyway, because 1/ it's a great place to camp (beautiful and less crowded than Muir) and 2/ as fenderfour said it's closer to the summit, and that matters You'll carry your tent a bit more both ways, but it's worth it. Get there early, have a good sleep (we got 5 1/2 hours each) and go summit!

 

drC

[catbirdseat]

Actually cold air has more oxygen. Where is CBS when you need him?

 

Sort of true. Cold air is denser (more moles of gas/volume), but it is still 21% oxygen.

 

It's why baseballs carry farther in warm weather.