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ogre

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Everything posted by ogre

  1. first, go to the Fred Meyers for your drink. I recommend Bridgeport Brewing's IPA. Then go to Miners "burger joint" in Union Gap and order the "Big Miner Duoble with a large fries. I'm sure you will enjoy both............... please send your response to "who's your daddy" . ogre
  2. P.S. seeing my wife "suck it up" and slog up to summit Adams was somewhat emotional for me. I was so damned proud of her!
  3. Just about getting my ass blown off the summit of Rainier. That was kinda cool.
  4. So how does it burn at high altitude?
  5. I hope you still have the sale on for the following week as well as I plan to be atop Rainier this weekend. Will inquire later.
  6. Ditto to all the above and in regards to water drink lots the day before and take plenty with you.I usually like to tank up on gatorade an hour or so before any climb and something like Muir 2 liters or so usually does the trick. If you think you'll need more take a filter/purifier or some iodine tablets to use it off the mountain. Usually,though, there is generally someone at Muir who is looking to give their extra away. Please don't forget to take sunscreen,sunglasses, and something to keep the heat off your head. It's certainly is a safe climb provided the weather is going to stay nice (it usually is that time of year)and as long as you can stay protected from too much sun. Enjoy!
  7. First of all, thanks for the heads up and/or info on the Emmons for those who cared to. And thanks RM for covering my back. Dear Seymore, I am ,I suppose, new to the pastime of climbing(3 years running),However I have summitted all of the Washington volcanoes. I'm sure you are aware,though, with all your knowledge and wisdom that some routes on some mountains require more,or less, gear than others. I am sure too ,with your vast experience, that you are aware that ounces = pounds at higher altitudes. So you must have come to know that inquiries about necessary gear on various routes is commonplace in the climbing realm. Try, for instance, the Easton G. route on Baker in August. Leave the helmet and poles at camp but you sure as hell better be hanging on to your axe for dear life and take a pet elephant as an anchor to be roped to. Of course most routes on Rainier reqire a helmet, and then their is something like the South route up Adams (which is where i'm taking my wife this weekend) which doesn't require anything but a pair of boots,windbreaker, a ham sammich, and an axe for the glissade down. So the nature of my inquiry was a matter of how much weight I really needed to lug around therefore I'm truly sorry for alarming your types with my pathetic and unworthy inquiry. I will notify my shrink of my wrongdoing. Should you ever have any children I have a kind word of advice for you. Don't practice beating your chest in front of them when they ask you for a bit of guidance as you will surely find that in time they will leave you out entirely as one whom they can turn to for direction. Thanks for your time ,though. Ogre
  8. Going to do Rainier in about 3 weeks and was considering via the Emmons Glacier. Had some inquiries so any info would be appreciated. Where is the best take-off spot, Sunrise or White River. Also is a helmet a needed item on the route. Are poles used on any part of the route or is it the axe all the way? That or any other info would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
  9. Very encouraging happy ending and totally cool pictures! Looks like a pretty straight forward route. Just imagine all those others that could have fallen in. Especially so close to the bivy area!Strangely enough to say at least it happened to someone who was prepared for it. Oh, by the way, did you at least carve your name on the walls inside the crevasse? You know , for bragging rights and all.
  10. ogre

    Summit Food

    Try some instant Oatmeal,jerky,soups,hard boiled eggs,pre-cooked shrimp from home. Try instant co-coa to wash it down. If none of that type stuff works call Dominoes and promise them a handsome tip for delivery
  11. Great, Looks like I'm covered for rope then.I wasn't looking forward to the extra cost of another rope. At least not right now. Eventually I will as I would definitely feel safer with a 9.2 or better. Guess I'll be extra focused on my axe during the climb. Good advise on the the extra wraps as I do employ that method also on the smaller diameter rope. Thanks for the feedback!
  12. There isn't any crevasse danger on the south spur route just several snowfields to navigate. If you plan on overnighting on the mountain all that is needed is a tarp to lay your sleeping bag on.(Provided the weather is going to stay nice.) Take something windproof for the top and some other insulation and you'll be fine. For the glissade trip down I recommend an old tough pair of rainpants and an ice axe to control your speed. There are places where one could easily lose control of their speed w/o some sort of braking device. Other than that the south side is basically just like a Muir-like slog.......... x2. Have fun! We will be down there in a couple of weeks.
  13. My partner and I are doing Rainier in August (D.C. route) and was wondering what diameter and length of rope we should use. I have an 8.8mm 30m rope we used for Baker but is that really enough. Of course, we don't plan on falling but should that happen what would you recommend in regards to rope dia. and length. Thanks , Ogre
  14. Ogre here, I agree with Thatcher. I, my wife, and my climbing partner went to Muir on Sunday. Conditions above Pebble Creek were not favorable but made for an interesting and good warmup trip for other summits this year. I posted a thread in the "Mt. Rainier" forum about our trip. Check it out titled, "Muir Sandblasting". Congrats. Iapetus999 on your climb. That Mt. is awesome no matter where you set eye or foot upon it. Check out the buildings next time to see what conditions climbers are living in on their way to the summit. And take a camera to proove your existence then and there! Peace, Ogre
  15. Had nothing better to do this weekend so I gathered up the wife and climbing buddy to do the Camp Muir bit. We realized the weather wasn't that great but what the heck, just wear all the wicking,warm,windproof,waterproof,keep your arse warm once you get to the top proof gear, right?........ whatever. We departed the the parking lot around 9:15 and set out. Weather was cloudy and slightly drippy and we could see some of the mountain. Just before the Pebble Creek crossing we encountered the first group of guided folks who were on the descent. When asked of their success it was nope,whiteout and avalanche danger. A little ways up on the snowfield we ran into a couple of other parties heading up as well as two more guided parties on their way down, with the same results. We asked them of the conditions up on the snowfield and they replied "whiteout and soft snow". "Ooook,Thanks", we replied and continued on. The path is well wanded so we fretted not. At around 8k or so the wind began to pickup so we stopped for snacks and to apply the "bombproof" gear we had. We thought. From that point on visibility gradually decreased and wind and frozen precip increased. It seemed as if the stuff was coming up from the ground. Goggles needed to be wiped quite frequently. Soon it became a matter of following the boot tracks as looking up for wands resulted in an unwanted facial blast of very unpleasant weather. My buddy informed me that he wussing out but I told him to just keep breathing. My wife kept directly behind us and as I would frequently turn to check on her I could somehow feel her thoughts as if they were reminding me that it would the dog that would be keeping me warm tonight and not her. As we made the left sweep at around the 9.5k or so area toward Muir the wind blew more directly at us than before. I now felt some remorse for all the objects I had ever sandblasted. We trudged on as we knew we would eventually arrive at the safety of the shelter. Finally, after what we thought was a mirage, came into view.......... another stinkin' rock. We continued on knowing it couldn't be much further. This time the mirage turned out to be the shelter. As ugly as they are they were quite beautiful this time up. We went in and met people from various parts of the country and had more snacks. Upon glancing at my I noticed it was a little after 1. I was very surprised as it seemed to have taken much longer. There were a few others that trickled in and was obvious they were very relieved to be inside. The wind seemed to be whipping up pretty good outside. After a half hour or so we were getting pretty comfy but realized we were only halfway there. We had yet to go back to the parking lot at Paradise. We entertained the thought of hailing a cab but unfortunately that thought gave way to the reality that there would be no cabs coming......... ever. With that ever so distinguishable scent of 'cooking reefer'lofting in the air we took inventory of our shiat. Here's how that went. 1.My wife's 'waterproof' boots were not 'waterproof' 2.her insulated gloves kept her hands nice and cold 3.her shorts and baselayer were soaked due to the fact that she didn't put on her shell pants when I had suggested.(She did wear her coat though) 4.she should have put on the poly baselayer shirt instead of the cute cotton t-shirt she decided to wear. 5.she had no anti-sandblast gear. my buddy's list 1. 'Impermeable' to wind and water boots were very ' permeated' 2.found out that wind can actually force water through 'Wind,Waterproof' coat........... which makes way for wind later. 3.should bring extra pair of socks next time 4.'Wind,Waterproof' head gear should be a must when mountain climbing(instead of cotton beanie) 5.no anti-sandblast gear I had my issues as well 1.Shouldn't forget 'wind,waterproof' gloves at home. Especially when climbing a windy and wet mountain. 2.should have taken goggles instead of cheap sunglasses. 3.should have some heating device for hands in case gloves were forgoten at home. 4.must have forgotten to bring anti-sandblasting gear. As you can see the inventory check-list revealed some overlookage. We put our gear back on and got 'psyched' for our venture back down the hill.We headed out door and were instantly reminded of two things. 1.The weather hadn't changed. 2.Our'inventory overlookage checklist report' As we started to head down we were literally being sandblasted as the wind was blowing herself and all of her belongings straight into us. At this point my wife simply got pissed with the situation and charged down the hill.(After she reminded me that she would never do this again) It was all my buddy and I could do to keep up with her. Visibility was very poor. It was very apparent she 'wanted off the mountain'. Thank God for inventing something so complex... such as wands. We caught up and stayed up with her as our descent consisted of a series of slips,slides,glissades,somersaults,and wipeouts.Basically put, get the hell out of the way 'cause hear we come. With ,of course,my wife in the lead. We quickly descended out of the inclimate weather and I could see my wife's spirits lifting.Perhaps our dog would be sleeping alone tonight. We made Pebble Creek in no time and from there she was a happy camper.It was an enjoyable hike down to the car. We all had that 17 lb.juicy cheesburger craving once we got there. We ended up at Azteca later where we enjoyed 11 lbs. of Mexican food instead.Alas, all was well once again. My wife now looks forward to climbing Adams with us, and especially the glissading down. Gear notes: Perhaps next time I will at least consider taking anti-sandblasting gear.
  16. My buddy and I were considering hiking to Muir this weekend and were curious about the conditions and /or any "heads up" advice or info about the route conditions. Thanks! Peace Out.
  17. would like to see some pics. Thanks,Ogre
  18. OE 800 used to be my favorite years ago, best bang for your buck! However I think I started to drink too much of it and it started making me mean and ornery. I think the crap was slowly killing me so I gave it up. Be careful with that stuff! They don't call me the Ogre for nuthin'
  19. I'll take the mittens if they're still available.
  20. Took the wife up to the Muir Snowfield yesterday and met a guy who was coming down that said the "Dateline" film crew was up at Camp Muir doing some filming of some sort. Possibly something to do with Whittaker? Anyone heard of or got any details?
  21. I hope I'm not around when that time comes....... not sure if I could stop myself from forming a vigilante/rebel type attitude and start pickin' off government personnel one by one.
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