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GODZILLA: WHY IM HARD

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quote:

Originally posted by sexual chocolate:

And yes, I do believe his name was Gene, and he would hit the rock with just the drill, over and over until the drill would finally stay in the hole he had created. Then he would hammer.

huh, wow...burly

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Originally posted by sexual chocolate:

quote:

PP, maybe sport-climbing is the only thing that interests them? Take the average 5.13 sporty, teach him/her some traddie techniques, and I bet quickly they would be able to lead 5.12 trad....Sport-climbing gives the same athleticism required on harder trad, don't you think?

Sorry screwed this up here is PPs rejoinder:

Well I'd disagree; climbing is a big world. Just like school yard bullies pick their victims so do climbers pick their climbs. For example: Once I lead a .12c trad onsight and backed off a runout .10 the next day. Often trad routes require a combination of skills with athleticism being only a minor player. I can think of many fairly hard trad routes that I would not call athletic at all. Anyway my comments were related to specialization in general and were not about the relative attractiveness of one style of climbing over another. If I fleshed out my argument a bit more I would think it would end with the conclusion that the best way to train for rock climbing would be to do everything with sport climbing being a great way to train for altheticism and other things - sport climbing is a fine end in and of itself. As someone else mentioned "it's all good." And that is truely the great thing about climbing. Bouldering, sport, trad, alpine each is different and yet each is incredibly cool in so many ways. For example: Sexy, you and I could go out bouldering and your could send V10s and I could struggle up V3s and each of us could be having the time of our lives. The difference in the difficulty of the routes we climb having little impact on our enjoyment. Climbing (and Allison) just simply [rockband] !!!!!

 

BAck to SC's original responce:

quote:

BTW, at least a few of the 5.13 climbers I know are quite good on trad, with 5.12 gear on-sight abilities....

SC -

 

Well "a few" proves my point! [big Grin]

 

Sorry messed up in responding my comments are buried in the bold above as well as below. I fixed it. Finally figured out thatbold stuff.

 

[ 08-22-2002, 09:15 AM: Message edited by: Peter Puget ]

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i am glad i went climbing yesterday! climbed wit an awesome person! sadly enough the man calls me back for paperwork duty!! any jobless sacks wanna trade jobs fer a while....i will give ya 30% of my salery. unless you are an laid of .com exec, it will prolly match your unemployment!!

 

[laf]

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quote:

Sayeth Peter Puget:

Hey Sexy I said that bit about 4th being closer to 5.11 than 5.11 is to .14c but I would also add that the trade off for specialization is that mostsportos who climb .13 are not even all around .11c leaders. Actually over the year sI have met very few people who are.

 

PP

This thing about most sportants (that's legitimate French, don't bother looking it up [big Grin] ) who climb 5.13 not being all-around .11c climbers just doesn't seem likely. There might be some 5.11 climbers who take a thrash away on 5.13s and can do a good few of the moves, but it's a long way from doing a few of the moves to actually sending 5.13. It takes a lot of time and work to climb 5.13 (or, for that matter, whatever your upper-limit grade might be), and it's got to be a rare soul who can climb that hard and not be solid on hard 5.11. Many (most) .13s are made up of some quantity of 5.12 moves strung together, and the amount of climbing at the 5.12 level one needs to do to succeed on a .13 pretty much ensures that a person is going to have the wherewithall to climb hard .11s, and probably onsight at that.

 

But, for the sake of discussion, have you met very many sportistes who can climb 5.13 but aren't solid on hard .11s? 'Cause that strikes the Doctor as right amazing if you have.

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[laf] And look who's still reading up on the action! [laf]

 

[rockband]

 

*ahem*

 

There once was a poster named Trask-o

who slathered his dick in Tabasco

to attract from all 'round

some hungry snafflehounds

'stead of licking, 'twas a biting fiasco!

[Eek!]

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quote:

Originally posted by Dr Flash Amazing:

 

There once was a poster named Trask-o

who slathered his dick in Tabasco

to attract from all 'round

some hungry snafflehounds

'stead of licking, 'twas a biting fiasco!

[Eek!]

omfgawd....i just pissed myself....this fall in smiff dfa, i am gonna hafta by ya a sasperrilla soda!

 

[big Drink][big Drink][big Drink][laf][laf][laf]

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Yukity, yukity, yuk [big Drink] (That was pretty damn witty, DFA [Razz] )

-- now drop and give me thirty.

 

[ 08-22-2002, 10:13 AM: Message edited by: trask ]

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quote:

Originally posted by Dr Flash Amazing:

quote:

Sayeth Peter Puget:

Hey Sexy I said that bit about 4th being closer to 5.11 than 5.11 is to .14c but I would also add that the trade off for specialization is that mostsportos who climb .13 are not even all around .11c leaders. Actually over the year sI have met very few people who are.

 

PP

This thing about most
sportants
(that's legitimate French, don't bother looking it up
[big Grin]
) who climb 5.13 not being all-around .11c climbers just doesn't seem likely. There might be some 5.11 climbers who take a thrash away on 5.13s and can do a good few of the moves, but it's a long way from doing a few of the moves to actually sending 5.13. It takes a lot of time and work to climb 5.13 (or, for that matter, whatever your upper-limit grade might be), and it's got to be a rare soul who can climb that hard and not be solid on hard 5.11. Many (most) .13s are made up of some quantity of 5.12 moves strung together, and the amount of climbing at the 5.12 level one needs to do to succeed on a .13 pretty much ensures that a person is going to have the wherewithall to climb hard .11s, and probably onsight at that.

 

But, for the sake of discussion, have you met very many
sportistes
who can climb 5.13 but aren't solid on hard .11s? 'Cause that strikes the Doctor as right amazing if you have.

AH Dr. -

 

I stand fully by what I said and will explain a bit further. I have worked on some sport routes year sagon and succeeded on some rated .13 and never onve considered myself a 11+ all around leader. I know several Seattle folk who have sent several Smith .13s and woudln't presume to think they were all around .11+ leaders. It is truly the rare bird who can for example Jump on Mary's Tears/Crucifix (even with a few point sof aid at the crux)and get to the top. I would guess very few of those who redpointed a .13 within the last few months could. Very few could go to climb Cream as well. Very few could go climb Swiss Orange Chip in Toulumne. This is no insult simply the facts. Being an all around 5.11 climber is quite an achievement. So is climbing 5.13. Very few could walk up and climb one of the difficult 5.11 routes on the Diamond. I would only add that from my perspective the former is more difficult than the latter.

 

Glad you came to the site DFA!

 

PP

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pp, i personally only know of one person whom meets your qualifications and that dude will rock your dome!!! and he is only 5'3" and a buck and some change......he even sends da a5 and water ice......

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quote:

Originally posted by erik:

pp, i personally only know of one person whom meets your qualifications and that dude will rock your dome!!! and he is only 5'3" and a buck and some change......he even sends da a5 and water ice......

he's the pride of Tacoma eh erik! [big Grin]

 

I met your secret lover, i'd have to say that i'm more impressed by his nice personality rather than his climbing resume. Although it'd be nice to learn some of that speed shit from him. [big Drink]

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bone, i dont know about the rest of tacoma but he is one of my oldest and best friends......and yes he is a very nice humble person.......

 

crank aways people......

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just kiddin about the secret lover thing...

 

I just get a kick of how you talk up Mike like your his agent! Reminds me of Jerry Meguire!

 

defenatley a badass

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quote:

Originally posted by Peter Puget:

I stand fully by what I said and will explain a bit further. I have worked on some sport routes year sagon and succeeded on some rated .13 and never onve considered myself a 11+ all around leader. I know several Seattle folk who have sent several Smith .13s and woudln't presume to think they were all around .11+ leaders. It is truly the rare bird who can for example Jump on Mary's Tears/Crucifix (even with a few point sof aid at the crux)and get to the top. I would guess very few of those who redpointed a .13 within the last few months could. Very few could go to climb Cream as well. Very few could go climb Swiss Orange Chip in Toulumne. This is no insult simply the facts. Being an all around 5.11 climber is quite an achievement. So is climbing 5.13. Very few could walk up and climb one of the difficult 5.11 routes on the Diamond. I would only add that from my perspective the former is more difficult than the latter.

 

Glad you came to the site DFA!

 

PP

Thanks, PP! Nice to be loitering about a climbing bbs that actually has people posting on it (and getting into some fine discussions/pissing matches to boot!).

 

So the Doctor sees your point now. While unfamiliar with the routes you cited, he assumes those are all granite slab nightmare 5.11s? In which case, yeah, a lot of 5.13 climbers might get hosed on that medium. But in the case of most sport climbers, they stick to certain types of routes (i.e. steep, or whatever it is they prefer--this apparently being your point about specialization), so whether or not they can climb 5.11+ blank slabs is often moot, since they usually wouldn't bother. And, most sportistes will freely admit that they suck at and don't like climbing blank slabs.

 

Anyway, fall is coming, and soon it will be time to clip some bolts!

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Geez Bone, you've got a real way with words. Is there anyone around here you haven't insulted, mocked or pissed off? [big Grin]

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DFA -

 

Only one was a slab. But I hear you about autumn arriving soon. I plan to go down to Smith and work on a few projects. Great thing about old age is I don't have any pretense of flashing them so routes I put off because I didn't want to taint them in the 80's are now up for grabs. (So are the draws for that matter) I don't have much chance of redpointing any but I'll have fun working them.

 

See you in the Fall!

PP

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quote:

Originally posted by trask:

Geez Bone, you've got a real way with words. Is there anyone around here you haven't insulted, mocked or pissed off?
[big Grin]

ummm I don't know, is there?

 

I don't thik erik minds whenI flip him shit, you on the oherhand...are soooo sensitive [Roll Eyes][big Grin]

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-

"Great thing about old age is I don't have any pretense of flashing them so routes I put off because I didn't want to taint them in the 80's are now up for grabs. "

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