Middle Sister conditions?

[heatmiser]

 

I'm planning a climb of Middle Sister via the Renfrew Glacier route for Tuesday. Just wondering if anyone could give me info on the current conditions.

 

Thanks!

[Chriznitch]

I would assume that the North Ridge is completely melted out with a scree trail from Prouty Point to the summit.

Cake.

[cluck]

Chriznitch is probably right on. Should be a dry trail to the glacier, and miserable scree wallowing above the glacier to the top.

[CraterCraver]

I climbed South Sister and Thielsen last year, and now I'd like to climb Middle Sister. I recently purchased 2 ice axes and a set of crampons, but haven't used them yet. I suggested to a friend that we climb Middle Sister next week (mid August), but he does not have crampons.

 

Given the late-summer date and the unusually warm weather in this area, is it enough to bring just the ice axes for "just in case" use, or are crampons also needed. I have heard that harnesses/ropes aren't needed, but I have heard conflicting information regarding whether we would need crampons.

 

Input from anyone who has climbed Middle Sister around this time of year would be appreciated!

[CraterCraver]

Just to clarify the previous message, we would be following the standard (easy) North Ridge route.

[Chriznitch]

as long as you approach from the west you will be okay. Coming from the east involves crossing the Hayden glacier--which has some open crevasses at this time.

I climbed the north ridge about a month ago and there was still some lingering snow, but it's surely gone by now. If you just bought the axes and are unfamiliar with handling them, maybe you should bring 'em and practice self arresting on the Renfrew Glacier during the approach.

You'll have a blast

[CraterCraver]

Thanks for the info. It is good to hear that crampons/axes aren't needed for Middle Sister under the current conditions. We'll bring the axes to practice self-arrest on Renfrew, as you mentioned.

 

One question: is there any need to summit really early in the morning? I've read some trip logs for Middle Sister where people talk about starting the summit push at 3am, and others don't leave camp until 9am. What's up with that?

[Chriznitch]

not in my opinion. Last month we started at like 9am and had no problems with the snow conditions. It's not like Hood where you are subject to rockfall later in the day. Your call, but it's a beautiful area and the more you can see the better. Anyways, I suppose you've already climbed it at this point!

[iain]

I've watched sunsets on the top of middle sister before.

 

There is a very short steeper section on the north ridge that keeps some ice late in the year. It is usually not a big deal to get past w/o crampons and axe but it has given some people pause before. It may be completely melted out by now.

[gapertimmy]

another alternate route, although a bit longer, would be to approach via Pole Creek TH, hike to Chambers Lakes (~ 6 miles), and climb the SW Ridge. There are some snow patches still visible, that you could practice arrest on, but the route is totally snow free. Scree slog from chambers lakes all the way to the top, probably a bit more solitude/less folks on that side of the mountain as well, no steeper sections like the small steep on the North Ridge.

 

The only benefit of starting early imho is avoiding the heat, but the common glacier start practiced on the likes of rainier is not needed.

 

Chambers Lakes makes a great camp site with wonderful vistas of all sisters and brokentop.

[mattp]

From the west, one of the shorter and more scenic routes is the Collier Glacier. You start at Frog Camp on the old McKenzie Pass highway, and follow the trail up and accross the White Branch lava flow and, instead of heading south to the Renfrew you detour a little north to "Collier Glacier View," and then head cross country through a cool and wild-feeling basin below the Collier. There are some crevasses on the glacier, little or not bare ice will be seen, and the "difficulties" can generally be avoided by hopping on the ridgeline to the right. Rockfall from the SW face of North Sister is something to watch out for.

 

This approach samples some of the areas finest volcanic scenery and what is almost like a real glacier.

[CraterCraver]

We were planning on approaching from the West side, so the Collier Glacier route is an easy option for us (thanks for the tip, mattp!).

 

Gapertimmy, I didn't even realize there was a SW Ridge on Middle Sister. Can't find mention of it in my "Climbing the Cascade Volcanoes" book. It sounds like a decent way to go, so I wonder why it isn't mentioned. You didn't mean southeast, did you?

[iain]

Can't find mention of it in my "Climbing the Cascade Volcanoes" book.

 

If I'm thinking of the right guide, this book seems rather opinionated. It all but states the Oregon Cascades are simply chosspiles of death, a combination of dull boredom and sheer terror and are not worth climbing. The guide then grudgingly spits out a few routes, frequently blabbing about why idiots even bother to climb some routes, with frequent skull and crossbones over some very nice lines (if approached intelligently, and during the right season).

 

Oregon High is a superior guide (and includes the south side routes of Middle Sister, some of the finest ski descents in the state). It actually puts climbs in Oregon in a positive light, and rightfully so.

[ivan]

ya, that's the guide alright. particurarily despises mt washington. on the plus side, it does have the cool dog icon superimposed over hood's south side.

[corvallisclimb]

for half the oregon peaks, it says "well heres the standard route but if your crazy enough to try anything else please refer to oregon high" in the preface to mt washington it also basically tells you to go to smith rock instead for rock climbing instead of trying other tech rock routes up washington

[Chriznitch]

I was heavily in favor of Oregon High not long ago, but the recent events have really made the included opinions stand out...I think I'm more neutral now. Perhaps the Falcon guide is the best for beginning climbers & peakbaggers looking for the easiest way to the summit. And although opinionated, the ratings do offer a way to compare route difficulties. However, certainly the descriptions in Oregon High are superior and are basically copied in the Falcon guide (in some spots the falcon book uses cheap sketches instead of showing the actual photos!! Copyright issues?)

 

Here's a pic of the Middle Sis from the NE last August:

[iain]

see? the rock isn't all that bad.

[gapertimmy]

sorry yes i meant se ridge

[mattp]

There is a W or SW ridge, too, with some lava tubes about 1,000 feet below the summit.

[bward]

I climbed the Middle from Pole creek up Hayden glacier last October with my 10 year old son in light weight hiking boots. There is a great ridge on the glacier that is almost flat and doesn't need crampons. There are a few crevases to negotiate. We did this in 8 hours car to car.